Imfashini ye-podium ayiyena kubantu
- Ukuqala kusuka ngoLwesihlanu, kuqala umucu wemibukiso amasonto amaviki efashini, lapho kulo nyaka okuya khona kulokhu. Ingabe kunomthelela omuhle emphakathini wemfashini?
- Ngeshwa, kwesinye isikhathi sifinyelela okuhlekisayo. Umbukiso kuphela wesibukeli, pr for abahleli, noRegina Dubovitskaya emugqeni wokuqala - ingabe kunzima? ENtshonalanga, noma iyiphi isonto lemfashini liwuhlelo oluqinile kakhulu ngokungena lapho kufanele udlale khona ngokuya ngemithetho futhi uqonde ukuthi awunalo iphutha. Kanye nokukhanyisa ngeqoqo lakho ku-podium kaTama - lokhu akulutho, nokubi kakhulu kunangaphambili. Kuyadingeka ukuba ngumhlanganyeli waphakade, ungaphuthelwa noma yisiphi isikhathi. Futhi abantu abaphambili emavikini wemfashini - izivakashi azimenywanga ngabadwebi, naku-Bayers. Futhi uma unentshisekelo futhi uthole i-oda, kufanele ulinikeze ngesikhathi. Futhi asikho izaba, ukube angikwazanga, anginaso isikhathi, umlilo, uzamcolo noma wonke umuntu ushonile. Sinohlelo oluhluke ngokuphelele ngalo mqondo.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- Futhi kungakanani esikubonayo kuma-podiums angangena empilweni yansuku zonke? Ngemuva kwakho konke, ngisho nezingubo zakho, njengencwadi yokubhalela kubonakala kunesidingo sokukhetha icala elifanele.
- Cishe, ngingububi, kepha amaqoqo e-podium awahloselwe impilo. Lezi yizithombe zokukhangisa kuphela. Futhi amamodeli e-boutiques, amamodeli athile "abantu" enziwe. Ngoba enkathini yenhlekelele, owesifazane uzokhetha ukuthenga ingubo eyodwa, kepha okuyisisekelo ukukufaka ngezesekeli ezihlukile kunezembatho ezintathu ezingejwayelekile.
- Ngaleso sikhathi, ukuba nento yokwakha umuntu ojwayelekile ku-wardrobe - okunethezeka. Kungani abaqambi baseRussia bema bebiza kakhulu kunemikhiqizo yaseNtshonalanga edumile?
- Kunezizathu ezinengqondo kakhulu zalo. Uma ngine-boutique eyodwa, khona-ke kufanele ngikhiqize izingubo ezinhlanu ngaphesheya komugqa wesilinganiso. Lokhu akuyona ukusakazwa kwefektri, kepha ngokukhiqizwa komuntu ngamunye. Lapha, njengomthetho, izindleko eziphezulu kakhulu - kusuka lapha intengo. Futhi embhalweni oshukunyiswayo wokuthengisa emhlabeni wonke kanye nesidingo sokukhishwa kwezinto ngezinkulungwane zezinkulungwane zendatshana, yingakho izindleko eziphansi.
"Kodwa-ke kuvela ukuthi ngemali efanayo kungcono ukuthenga, ngokwesibonelo, izingubo ezivela endlini yemfashini edumile ye-Versay Houflenance kunesisindo esimbalwa esidumile sika-Alena Akhmadullin noma isilwane sabalingisi baseRussia u-Alexander Terekhov?
- Le yindaba ye-trust nesikhathi kuphela. ERussia, akukho mbombo yezemfashini. Nganginenhlanhla, ngathola omunye umyalo lapho enjalo. Kuliqiniso, kwakunzima ngokwengeziwe ngemfashini. Ngo-1989, ngathola iziqu ezivela kwi-Textile Institute futhi lapho kusatshalaliswa kwaqala ukusebenza esikhungweni semfashini saseRussia - Le yinhlangano eholayo eyakha imodeli yezomboni yezwe. Lapho, ngafundiswa yisiko lokukhiqiza, ukuthuthukisa amamodeli kusuka kumdwebo wokuhweba, inqubo efanele ubuchwepheshe. Manje, ukusebenza nezinsalela zefektri zethu, ngiyaqonda ukuthi kunzima kangakanani ukumvimba ekukhiqizweni kwemakethe.
Ngelinye ilanga, eParis Boutique, umphakathi wethu wazo ngenxa yesizathu esithile waphawula ngenjabulo ngokuthenga kwakhe: "Lokhu akuyona" iBolshevik "!" Futhi iphuzu lapha alikho nhlobo kubantu abangafuni ukuthenga izingubo ezifuywayo, kepha iqiniso lokuthi ezweni lethu alikaziwa uhlelo olunjalo oluzosiza abaklami bethu ngenkuthalo, yenza umkhiqizo osezingeni. Ekugcineni, asenze ukuze singazibali ezinsukwini ngaphambi kohambo lwaphesheya, lapho ungagcina khona ukuthenga imfashini, esezingeni eliphakeme.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- Futhi ungokoqobo kangakanani umklami waseRussia ukuze abe ngumshayamthetho wemfashini womhlaba, chaza, njenge-armani noma i-dior?
- Ngeshwa, bamisa ukuba yinto ebhekwe ukulingana. Imfashini ngokuvamile ishiye umkhuba wezindlela ezijwayelekile, ezazimenyezelwa ngohlelo lweminyaka emihlanu futhi lapho kwakhiwa khona yonke imiqondo ye-stylistic. Izitayela ezahlukahlukene namuhla zikhona ngokufana futhi kwesinye isikhathi zikhethekile. Futhi ushintshe njalo ezinyangeni eziyisithupha. Kepha lokhu akusho ukuthi badinga ukungacabangi. Isibonelo, kuma-80s, amahlombe amakhulu ayefanele. Futhi uma unejazi ngehlombe endaweni yemvelo, bekukholelwa ukuthi wawugqokwa ngokufanayo. Manje konke kwehlukile. Imfashini ichazela ama-Mass Brands. Okungabizi kakhulu futhi okugqamile - le mfashini esheshayo iqondiswa kwimfashini yesikhashana, yini efanele lapha futhi manje.
Into esemqoka ukuthi isudi ihleli
- Uvame ukusebenza nabantu bomphakathi. Ngabe bazama ukwenza kabusha okuthile ngaphansi kwabo, shintsha ukusika okuvele kusalokhu okukhona?
- Bangithemba kakhulu ukuthi kaningi ukuhleleka kwekhabethe kwenzeka ngocingo. Lawa ngokuvamile abantu esihlangana nabo maqondana nezingubo. Amakhasimende ami kumele agqoke kangcono kunawo wonke umuntu, kepha akekho umuntu okufanele asole ngayo eqinisweni lokuthi bagqoke. Futhi cishe okubaluleke kakhulu kumuntu womphakathi, ikakhulukazi kwezepolitiki. Kulula kakhulu kimi ukusebenza nabantu abahlukahlukene. Isibonelo, uSvetlana Connegegegegen unezela ubukhali entweni ngayinye, kanti uKatya Strizhenova uhlobisa, yize ngithanda kakhulu ukuyigqoka ku-minimalism - kukhanya kakhulu ukuthi ukugqoka okungaphenduki kuqala ukuphikisana nakho.
- Ngiyazi ukuthi unomngane womshado kamongameli wamanje ...
- USvetlana Medvedev isikhathi eside kwakuyiklayenti lami ngaphambi kokuba intokazi yokuqala iba. Ungumuntu othanda impilo naye uqobo. Ukusebenza naye kwakukuhle kakhulu. Lezi kwakuyizinto zokungena emhlabeni futhi ziphumule. Ngokuvamile, ukubukeka kwentokazi yokuqala kuyindaba yokubaluleka kombuso futhi kwesinye isikhathi incazelo ethe xaxa yesithombe saseRussia kunengubo kamongameli.
- Uqhamuke nefomu lezinceku zendiza, izintambo ze-wiring kanye ne-mosro metro. Kwakunzima ukuxhuma imfashini nokusebenziseka? Ngemuva kwakho konke, ngokwesibonelo, i-yudashkin isathuka umfaniswano wamasosha, yize ukuthuthukiswa kwakhe kwemiklamo ayikaze iye ekukhiqizweni kwesisindo.
- Woza ngefomu, unaka isithombe sezinkampani, amasiko, imisebenzi yezithombe - le yingxenye ephumelela kakhulu yomsebenzi. Kepha into ebaluleke kakhulu ukuthi ifomu alihluleki kahle. Ngokwami, mina, ngaphambi kokuba uqale ukuklama izingubo ezifanayo, ukuxhumana nabasebenzi bezinkampani ezindaweni zabo zokusebenza. Ngemuva kwakho konke, lokhu kumele kube ngamaphethini amahle kakhulu, kucatshangelwa imininingwane yezimpawu zokunyakaza kwalomsebenzi. Kuyadingeka ukukhomba umbono wesithombe kumugqa wesilinganiso. Ukwenza isibonelo, esitimeleni, kungubukhulu kusukela kwabangu-40 kuya ku-64. Futhi wonke umuntu kufanele abuke akhanseliwe. Ukuqashwa komlobi akuvumeli ukonga ezikhathini eziyisisekelo ezibalulekile njengekhwalithi yezinto zokwakha, ukuqeda, ukufakwa, njll. Okwamanje, amathenda aphakamisa inani eliphansi kakhulu, amacala afana nokudideka ngefomu lezempi, alinakugwenywa.
- Kuyiqiniso, yini engiya ezingutsheni zakho ne-stepashka? Impela ingamakhasimende angewona ama-pecked ...
"Ngempela, babefika njalo badiliza ngokuthula konke ukufakwa," kusho uVictoria. - Kepha ngasikhathi sinye, ukudluliswa okuthandekayo kusukela ebuntwaneni kwakungewona umsebenzi olula. Lapho, kunezidingo zethu zezobuchwepheshe, ngokwesibonelo, umkhono wenhlanganisela. Umsebenzi wawungokwakha amazakhiwo. Ngenxa yalokho, kwavela cishe inqwaba yezingubo.
Awukwazi ukwenqabela ukuthunga okuhle
- Siqine kangakanani isizukulwane esincane sabaqambi futhi ngubani othambekele? Isibonelo, isikole sesikole i-vyacheslav Zaitseva yenza ukubheja ikakhulu ukushaqisa ...
- Kulokhu, ukushaqeka kungenye yezindlela zokuzichaza ngokwakhe. Uma ukhombisa into eyinqaba, nakanjani uzokhuluma ngendalo yakho. Futhi izinkinga zabaqambi baseRussia azikho nakancane lapho kungekho khona imibono, kodwa ekusebenzeni kwazo. Kuqala ngemfundo. Izikhathi zokuhambisa ukukhiqizwa. Kepha umane nje udinga ukufaka umkhuba onjalo. Ngemuva kwakho konke, into esemqoka ukuthi isudi ihleli, hhayi umugqa omuhle esikebheni. Sinezikole eziningi zokulingisa: I-Moscow (lesi yizikhungo zendwangu nezobuchwepheshe) ne-OPSK (isikhungo senkonzo). Imisebenzi yabafundi kanye neziqu zalezi zikole ukuncintisana ngokuphelele, amakhaya aseNtshonalanga nezinkampani ezinkulu zijabule ukuzimemela kubaphumelele base-Internpy of the Russian Silhouette Foundation Precing. Ngokwami, ngikholwa ukuthi uchwepheshe oqinile wenzeka uma enemfundo ekhethekile yesibili, futhi ulele phezulu. Mina ngokwami ngidlule ngendlela enjalo futhi, ngiqonde inani lakhe, empeleni ngangifuna ukunika indodakazi yakhe yemboni ekhanyayo. Kepha yena, eba yikolishi, ahlangana ahlangana nezinwele nabapheki futhi alahlekelwe amandla akhe okuqala. Izinsizakalo ezikhethekile lapho ziqala kuphela enkambweni yesi-3 hhayi ngokugcwele. Futhi lokhu kusho - ukulimazeka kwekhwalithi.
- Ngakho-ke, mhlawumbe kungcono ukufunda ngomqambi phesheya?
- Ngidinga ukuqonda ubuciko bokumodela, kepha ungaphola ubuciko bamanye amazwe. Ngisanda kubukela izibalo: Eminyakeni engu-3 edlule, sashiya abantu abayizinkulungwane ezingaphezu kwezigidi ezingama-10 ezivela ezweni. Kulaba, cishe ama-45% abantu abanemfundo ephakeme. Futhi uyazi ukuthi yikuphi okuthakazelisa kakhulu? Ngokusho kwalezi zibalo, ezweni lethu kuphela i-14-15% yabantu abanemfundo ephakeme. Ingabe ochwepheshe bethu bazokuhlakulela imboni ekhanyayo ngethuba lezwe langaphandle? Kungakho ngavuma ukuba ubuso benhlangano ye-All-Russian "izwe elivuselelwe", izinhloso zabo ukusekelwa kwabaklami baseRussia, ubuchwepheshe, othisha amanyuvesi akhethekile kanye namakolishi, osomabhizinisi. Sigqugquzela ikakhulukazi ukukhushulwa kwabaqambi abasebasha baseRussia. Ezweni lethu akukho ukusweleka kwamathalente. Bheka umncintiswano we-silhouette waseRussia. Ngendlela, ngoLwesibili, ngo-18, bayoba nowokugcina. Amakhulu abaqambi abanethalente, abancane, abanamandla beza ukunqoba iMoscow. Bakulungele ukunciphisa izintaba, futhi okubaluleke kakhulu - bakholelwa ngokweqiniso ukuthi bazophumelela. Kepha unyaka uyaphasiswa, futhi amayunithi aqothulwa ngaphandle, ahlala esebenzayo. Futhi lapho ukuphumula kunyamalala khona, ngeshwa, angazi ...
- Ngale ndlela, uma ngingenzi iphutha, owokuqala 'wakho we-BIG GRORCE "kwakuyingubo yamagilavu wamabhokisi ...
- Ngaleso sikhathi, ezitolo, isikhumba asitholakalanga. Ngiyakhumbula, ngatshela umama ukuthi athayiphe incwadi esemthethweni, bathi, izingxenye eziyisibhakela zidinga ama-cyny amagilavu amagilavu. Esitolo, lapho safika khona, samangala kakhulu ukuthi kungani bekudinga umnyama kuphela. Kwakufanele ngisungula ohambweni: "Ukuze izingane ngenxa yemibala, ziyaphazamiseka!" Futhi lapho ngiqala ukubheka ikhwalithi ngayinye, abathengisi futhi ngangena esikhundleni sabo bonke. Kepha "amagilavu wesibhakela anezingcezu ezimbalwa ezingama-20" asakudedele. Utshani, obungaphakathi, ngivumela uSofa, nesikhumba esinqabile ejazini. Bengigqokwa kanye nodadewethu katya (i-ekaterina strizhenova. - auto.), NoMama kuyo sebehamba nenja.
- UCatherine usephakathi kowokuqala owabonga umsebenzi wakho?
- Inyunyana yethu awenze buthaka. Kepha uma ngaphambi kokuba kudingeke, manje mayelana nokubizelwa kwenhliziyo. UKatya uyimnyuziyamu wami. Ngigqoka uKatya emoyeni nakwi-movie, enkundleni yemidlalo yaseshashalazini nasempilweni, futhi lokhu kuhlale kuyinqubo ehehayo neyakhayo.
- Kepha bekukhona isikhathi lapho kufanele uyikhokhe ukuze ubhekane ngokubambisana ...
- Yebo, bengingumfundi we-Institute, futhi uKatya uyimodeli yami enqunu. Wayevame ukungibuza, futhi izinsizakalo zakhe zazifanele ipeni ngehora.
Ubukhazikhazi baya empukane
- Eminyakeni eminingana eyedlule, uthe iMoscow yidolobha elilalelayo kunazo zonke: Omagazini bathi le mnyama - bonke begqoke ukulila, babhale ukuthi sidinga ukugqoka amathoni abomvu. Manje kukhona okushintshile?
- I-Moscow manje sehluke kakhulu. Kepha kuboniswe ngokusobala into eyodwa - inhloko-dolobha ikhathele ubukhazikhazi. Futhi yaze yamisa ukuba yinhle kangako.
- Ucabangani ukuthi bangaki abantu eRussia abagqokwa namuhla ngezinaliti?
- Indoda ephethenaliti ayinamfashini. Amandla okugqoka izingubo ezibizayo ezikhathaza - ubuciko obukhona. NjengoDandy. Lezi zintsha azikaze zifake imvunulo entsha, zamnika ukuba anikele ngenceku ukuba athole isicwebezele. Futhi abazange bakubonge kuzo zonke izinkinobho, njengokungathi zibonisa ukunganakuthembela ekubukekeni kwabo. By the way, umthetho awenzi kepha uqinise inkinombo engezansi yejakhethi okusele kusukela kulezo zikhathi. Futhi manje inkinobho engezansi ye-Sleeve Slot ayiboshwe.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- Yiziphi izitayela ezifanele namuhla?
- Imfashini yesimanje ibanzi kunesitayela nje. Lokhu kuyindlela yokuphila. Ukwazi Ukwazi Ukuthola Umkhuba Wokulimala Kwezimali. Isibonelo, ungusomabhizinisi oholela indlela yokuphila enempilo, kusihlwa iya enkundleni yemidlalo. Okwakho - ama-minimalism anomnyama omnyama (omhlophe, we-beige, omnyama okwesibhakabhaka) ukugqoka kanye nejacket eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka (ophuzi, oluhlaza okotshani, obomvu). Futhi isikhafu esilikay emgodini omnyama nomhlophe noma okunye ukuphrinta okukhulu kuphenduka umnsalo kusihlwa. Noma ubhala umfundi, khona-ke - ijazi lohlobo lowesilisa, ibhulukwe lesilika, isiketi se-micromini, mhlawumbe nesigqoko sabesilisa. Isikhathi sangempela sama-40s - ezothando nezinto zothando ezinezinto zeMilitari, ezenza kube nokwenzeka ukukhumbula ngisho nabesifazane bebhizinisi kakhulu ukuthi basesifazane. Futhi i-60 - egqoke izingubo zakhe ezi-mini nase-trapezoidal ngomkhono wezindawo ezintathu.
- Ukuze ukhethe kuzo zonke izinhlobo ezethulwe ezitolo, kufanele ziphathwe ngesitayela esincanyana?
- Isitayela sokuzwa akuyona amandla okukhetha izinto, kepha amandla okuwahlanganisa kahle. Isikhumba se-Raincoat, ngaphakathi kwe-chiffon skirt, i-lace top, ngaphezulu kokushayeka okukhazimulayo kanye namabhuthi anoboya ngaphandle - Lo ngumkhuba ongenamkhawulo wesizini.
- Manje ungaqokomisa lezo zinto ezingabiza ukuhlela ukuhlela ize izikhathi ezingcono?
"Bengingeke ngibe ngezigaba, kepha ngisasusa i-fur vest - inkathi edlule bekunokugcwala okucacile.
- Ngefashini, ungaqokomisa izakhi: zezinwele, izingubo, ukwakheka, izicathulo ... yini esinaye izinyonga kakhulu?
- I-hairstyle engaphumelelanga ingabulala yonke indlu yangasese. Kepha ngasizathu simbe, kusakholelwa ukuthi ukubekwa okuhle yilena eyenziwe kwikhabethe futhi kulungiswe cishe ibhaluni le-varnish. Ngeshwa, abesifazane bethu ababoni ukuthi ukunganakekeli okukhanyayo kungagcizelela kuphela isitayela.
- Ingabe kukhona izwe ongase futhi ube nesitayela nakwimfashini?
- Yebo, lena yiFrance. Angiyeki ukuncoma abaseParis. Umugqa omncane wehlombe, ikhola ephakanyisiwe, ingubo encane emnyama noma emnyama eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kanye nentambo yeparele entanyeni - kanye ngokukhetha ngokwakho, alandela lesi siqondiso.