Podium fashion is not for the people
- Starting from Friday, it starts the string of shows for weeks of fashion, which this year go one after another. Are there a great effect on the fashion community?
- Unfortunately, we sometimes reaches funny. The show solely for the viewer, PR for the organizers, and Regina Dubovitskaya in the first row - is it serious? In the West, any Fashion Week is a very rigid system by entering into which you have to play according to the rules and understand that you do not have an error right. Once to light up with your collection on the Tama's Podium - this is nothing, even worse than ever. It is necessary to be a permanent participant, do not miss any season. And the main people on the weeks of fashion - guests not invited by designers, and Bayers. And if you are interested in and get an order, you must provide it on time. And there is no excuse, if I could not, did not have time, the fire, flood or even everyone died. We have a completely different system in this sense.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- And how much what we see on the podiums can come in in everyday life? After all, even for your dresses, such as the notebook it seems necessary to select the right case.
- Probably, I'm a disadvantage, but the podium collections are not intended for life. These are only advertising images. And for boutiques, quite "human" models are made. Because in the era of crisis, a woman will prefer to buy one dress, but basic to supplement it with different accessories than three unusual outfits.
- Meanwhile, to have a designer thing for an ordinary person in the wardrobe - still luxury. Why are Russian designers stand even more expensive than famous Western brands?
- There are very objective reasons for it. If I have one boutique, then I have to produce five dresses for it in a dimension row. This is not a factory circulation, but for individual production. Here, as a rule, very high expenses - from here the price. And at the promoted brand of sale around the world and the need for the release of things by thousands of essays, hence the low cost.
"But then it turns out that for the same money it is better to buy, for example, the outfit from the famous fashion house of Versace than from still few famous masses of Alena Akhmadullin or the pet of Russian actresses Alexander Terekhov?
- This is only a matter of trust and time. In Russia, there is practically no fashion industry. I was lucky, I found another order when she was. True, it was more difficult with fashion. In 1989, I graduated from the textile institute and on the distribution began working at the Russian Fashion Center - this is a leading organization that developed the model for the country factories. There I was taught by the production culture, promoting models from a sketch to trade, a competent technological process. Now, working with the remnants of our factories, I understand how hard it is to survive production in a market fight.
One day, in Paris boutique, our compatriot for some reason happily commented on his purchase: "This is not the" Bolshevik "!" And the point here is not at all in people who do not want to buy domestic clothes, but the fact that in our country is simply not built such a system that would help our designers actively develop, make a quality product. In the end, make us so that we do not count the days before the trip abroad, where you can finally buy fashionable, high-quality clothing.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- And how real is the Russian designer to become the legislator of world fashion, dictate, as Armani or Dior?
- Unfortunately, they stopped being the benchmark to be equal to. Fashion generally left the practice of general trends, which were proclaimed on the five-year plan and around which all stylistic concepts were built. Different trends today exist in parallel and even sometimes mutually exclusive. And change every six months. But this does not mean that they need to be unquestioned. For example, in the 80s, large shoulders were relevant. And if you had a coat with a shoulder on a natural place, it was believed that you were uniformly dressed. Now everything is different. Fashion dictate mass brands. Inexpensive and bright - this fast-fashion is oriented to the momentary fashion, what is relevant here and now.
The main thing is that the suit is sitting
- You often have to work with public people. Do they try to remake something under themselves, change the already existing cut?
- They trust me so much that often the order of the wardrobe occurs by phone. These are usually the people with whom we coincide in relation to clothes. My clients must be dressed better than everyone, but no one must suspect them in the fact that they dressed up. And it almost most importantly for a public person, especially politics. It is very easy for me to work with bright individualities. For example, Svetlana Conegegen adds sharpness to each thing, and Katya Strizhenova decorates, although I most like it to wear it in minimalism - it is so bright that an overlooking dress begins to argue with it.
- I know that you have a spouse of the present president ...
- Svetlana Medvedev for a long time was my client before the first lady became. She is a man who loves life and himself. Working with her was very positive. These were things to get into the world and for rest. In general, the appearance of the first lady is a matter of state importance and sometimes even more meaning for the image of Russia than the president's costume.
- You came up with a form for flight attendants, wiring and Moscow metro employees. It was hard to connect fashion and practicality? After all, for example, Yudashkin still scolds for soldiers' uniforms, although his design developments never went to the mass production.
- Come up with a form, taking into account the image of companies, traditions, image tasks - this is the most effective part of the work. But the most important thing is that the form does not fail functionally. Personally, I, before you begin to design similar clothes, communicate with the staff of the companies on their workplaces. After all, this must be excellent patterns, taking into account the specifics of the movements characteristic of this profession. It is necessary to identify the perception of the image in the dimension row. For example, for the subway, it is dimensions from the 40th to 64th. And everyone should look canceled. The author's supervision does not allow to save on such fundamental moments as the quality of materials, finishing, fittings, etc. In the meantime, the tenders suggest the lowest price, cases similar to the confusion with a military form, inevitable.
- True, what do I go to your clothes and a stepashka? Surely it is the most non-pecked clients ...
"Indeed, they regularly arrived and silently demolished all the fittings," Victoria laughs. - But at the same time, the transfer beloved since childhood was not the task of simple. There, there are our technological requirements, for example, sleeve for a puppeteer. The work was practically architectural. As a result, it turned out about a dozen of outfits.
You can't forbid beautifully sew
- How strongly the smaller generation of designers and who is it oriented? For example, the School of School Vyacheslav Zaitseva makes a bet mainly on shocking ...
- In this case, the shock is just one of the ways to declare himself. If you show a strange thing, you will definitely speak about your creation. And the problems of Russian designers are not at all in the absence of ideas, but in their implementation. It begins with education. Passed production distribution times. But you simply need to enter such a practice. After all, the main thing is that the suit is sitting, and not a beautiful line on the sketch. We have several simulation schools: Moscow (this is textile and technological institutions) and Omsk (Institute of Service). The works of students and graduates of these schools are absolutely competitive, Western homes and large companies are pleased to invite to themselves to internship winners of the Russian Silhouette Foundation Competition. Personally, I believe that the strongest specialist is happening if he has a secondary special education, and he lies with higher. I myself went through such a way and, understanding his value, I really wanted to give daughter to an ancient technique of light industry. But he, becoming a college, reunited with hairdressers and cooks and lost his former power. Special services there begin only from the 3rd course and not in full. And this means - to the detriment of quality.
- So, maybe it is better to learn about the designer abroad?
- I need to comprehend the art of modeling, but you can polish the craft abroad. I recently watched statistics: in the last 3 years, we left more than 1 million 250 thousand people from the country. Of these, about 45% are people with higher education. And you know what is the most interesting? According to this statistics, in our country only 14-15% of the population have higher education. Is our experts will really develop a light industry in a chance of a foreign country? That is why I agreed to become the face of the All-Russian Movement "Updated Country", whose goals are the support of Russian designers, technologists, teachers of specialized universities and colleges, entrepreneurs. We advocate primarily for the promotion of young Russian designers. In our country there is no deficiency of talents. Look at the Russian Silhouette Competition. By the way, on Tuesday, the 18th, they will have the final. Hundreds of talented, young, energetic designers come to conquer Moscow. They are ready to minim the mountains, and most importantly - they sincerely believe that they will succeed. But the year is passed, and the units are knocked out, remain working. And where the rest disappear, we, unfortunately, do not know ...
- By the way, if I'm not mistaken, the first of your "big creation" was a coat of boxing gloves ...
- At that time, in stores, the skin was not found. I remember, I told my mother to type the official letter, they say, the boxing sections need twenty pairs of gloves. In the store, where we came, were very surprised why they need it solely black. I had to invent on the go: "In order for children because of the colors, they are disturbed!" And when I began to check each of the quality, sellers and replaced at all. But "boxing gloves with a number of 20 pieces" still let go. A straw, which was inside, I let the sofa, and the scarce skin on the coat. I was worn and my sister Katya (Ekaterina Strizhenova. - Aut.), And mom in it still walks with a dog.
- Catherine is still among the first who appreciate your work?
- Our union does not weaken. But if before it was as needed, now more about the call of the heart. Katya is my muse. I wear Katya on the air and in the movie, in the theater and in life, and this is always a fascinating and creative process.
- But there was a time when you had to pay it for such cooperation ...
- Yes, I was a student of the institute, and Katya is my naked model. She often posed me, and her services were worth a penny per hour.
Glamor went to the fly
- Several years ago, you said that Moscow is the most obedient city: the magazines dictate the fashion on black - all dressed in mourning, they write that we need to wear red, are drawn into scarlet tones. Now something has changed?
- Moscow is now very different. But it is clearly seen one thing - the capital is tired of Glamor. And it even stopped being such an elegant.
- What do you think how many people in Russia are dressed today with needles?
- A man with a needle is not even fashionable. The ability to wear expensive clothes somewhat careless - that's art. Like dandy. These young people never put on a new costume, gave him to donate the servant to get a gloss with him. And they did not fasten it to all buttons, as if demonstrating the indifference to their appearance. By the way, the rule does not but fasten the lower button of the jacket left since those times. And now the lower button of the sleeve slot is not fastened.
Photo: Ilya Shabardin
- What styles are relevant today?
- Modern fashion is wider than just a style. This is rather lifestyle. Consciousness determines the inflated fashion trend. For example, you are a businesswoman leading a healthy lifestyle, in the evenings go to the theater. For you - minimalism with small black (white, beige, dark blue) dress and bright (yellow, green, blue, red) jacket. And the silk scarf in the black and white peas or another major print turns into a bow in the evening. Or you are whining a student, then - a male type coat, a silk blouse, a micromini skirt and, maybe a men's hat. The actual era of 40s - romanticism with the elements of Militari, which makes it possible to remember even very business women that they are still women. And the 60th - with her mini and trapezoidal dresses with a sleeve of three quarters.
- To choose from all the diversity presented in stores, must be treated with a thin style?
- Feeling style is not the ability to choose things, but the ability to combine them correctly. Leather raincoat, inside chiffon skirt, lace top, over a scarf rude mating and boots with a fur outside - this is an unconditional trend of the season.
- Now you can highlight those things that would cost to postpone until better times?
"I would not have been so categorical, but I still removed the fur vest - last season there was a clear bust.
- In fashion, you can highlight the components: hairstyle, clothes, makeup, shoes ... What do we have lame most?
- Unsuccessful hairstyle can kill the entire toilet. But for some reason, it is still believed that the ideal laying is the one that is made in the cabin and is fixed almost a varnish balloon. Unfortunately, our women do not realize that light carelessness can only emphasize the style.
- Is there a country to which you can also be in style and in fashion?
- Of course, this is France. I do not cease to admire Parisians. The thin line of the shoulder, the raised collar, a small black or dark blue dress and a pearl thread on the neck - Once by choosing a classic for yourself, they follow this direction.