Uma eminyakeni embalwa edlule, amakhasi e-acid enziwe ehhovisi le-beautician, manje izinkampani zezimonyo zikhiqiza le mikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwasekhaya, yize ngokuhlanganiswa okuncane kwento esebenzayo. Uma uhambisana nezincomo zomkhiqizi, ngeke uthole ukushiswa kwamakhemikhali, kepha usheshise ukuvuselelwa kabusha kwamaseli esikhumba - yenza isikhumba sithambile, uthole umbala ofanayo. Sizokwethula imikhiqizo ethandwayo kanye nezinto ezikhona ongazisebenzisa ekhaya.
Izinhlobo zama-acid
Into yokuqala okufanele uyazi ngama-acid ukuthi kunezinhlobo ezimbili eziphambili emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba: I-Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) kanye ne-beta hydroxy acids (BHA). Womabili la makilasi e-acid asiza ukuhamba isikhumba, kepha kukhona umehluko phakathi kwawo. Ngokusho kukaDkt Nava Greenfield, isazi se-dermatologist evela eSchwegeger dermatology Group, umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwawo ekwakhiweni kwamakhemikhali okuthinta ukuthi uhlobo ngalunye lwe-acid lungena esikhunjeni. Isibonelo, i-Ana incibilika emanzini futhi ikhiphe, ichithe izingqimba zangaphandle zamaseli wesikhumba afile. Ngaleso sikhathi, bha, njenge-salicylic acid, ukuncibilika emafutheni, ukuze akwazi ukungena kuma-pores futhi asizakale. Ngokusho kweGreefield, phakathi kwalezi zifundo ezimbili, ama-acid athandwa kakhulu wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba yi-salicyl (bha) kanye ne-glycolic (ANA). Kepha kunezinye izinhlobo eziningi ze-acid, ezibonisa ukukhethwa komkhiqizo oyifunayo.
I-salicylic acid
I-Salicylic Acid ingeyohlobo lwe-BHA Acids. Ngokusho kwe-American dermatologist robin Gmarek, le acid ingena ngempela ku-pores. ISalicylic acid exfoliates ungqimba oluphezulu lwamaseli esikhumba, okwenza kube yindlela ephumelelayo ekulweni nama-rashes. Ngemuva kokusebenzisa, isikhumba sisulwa amaseli afile, okwenza kukhanye futhi kuthambe ngokuthinta. I-Salicylic acid iyi-salihylate ebhekisa emndenini ofanayo ne-aspirin - kwenqatshelwe ukusebenzisa labo abanokungezwani komzimba nalowo muthi. Kodwa-ke, kanye ne-aspirin, i-salicylic acid futhi inezakhiwo zokulwa nokuvuvukala ezingathoba isikhumba futhi zinciphise ukucasuka ngemuva kokusebenzisa. Amalebula amaningi emikhiqizo esekwe acid ngamaphesenti ama-acid asetshenzisiwe, akwazisa abathengi mayelana nomthelela olinganiselwe ekusebenziseni umkhiqizo. Ama-dermatologists akweluleka ukuthi akhethe imikhiqizo, engxenyeni esebenzayo yayo ezobe amaphesenti ama-acid ayi-1-2: i-salicylic acid ibhekisela kumuntu onamandla, ngakho-ke kuyadingeka ukuthi isikhumba sibe yimali encane ekwakhiweni.
Ungesabi ukusebenzisa ama-acid
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Glycolic acid
I-Glycolic acid (aha) i-exfoliant yamakhemikhali, ebhubhisa futhi isuse amaseli esikhumba afile endaweni yesikhumba. Ngemuva kokusebenzisa, i-pigmentation incishisiwe, ubuso bube lula, buba ngisho nombala. Ngemuva kokususa amaseli afile, isikhumba siba matasa kakhulu - sithola izimonyo ezishiya izimonyo ozisebenzisa ekhaya. Futhi, i-glycolic acid ithuthukisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen - amaprotheni abhekele ukuqina kanye nejubane lokubuyiselwa kwesikhumba. Yize, ikakhulukazi i-Glycolic acid ilusizo ekuvikeleni ukuguga kwesikhumba, kungahle kusetshenziselwe ukwelapha induna. Ama-dermatologists anothi ukuthi i-glycolic acid ibekezelelwa kahle yizinhlobo eziningi zesikhumba. Lapho ufuna imikhiqizo nge-glycolic acid yokunakekelwa kwasekhaya, ama-cosmetologists akweluleka ukuthi ukhethe okuhlushwa kusuka kumaphesenti ayi-10 kuye kwayi-15.
I-lactic acid
I-Milk Acid, eyodwa e-ANA, efana ne-Glycolic, kepha isebenza kancane. Ngokupha, iCleopatra uqobo, yazi okuqukethwe amaphesenti amancane e-acid obisini, kwathatha okugeza kobisi ukuvuselela amaseli esikhumba nokukunikeza ukuthamba. Imikhiqizo ene-lactic acid inconywa kuwo wonke umuntu okhathele ngesikhumba esomile. Ingasetshenziswa futhi ukuvumelanisa impumuzo yesikhumba - ukuqeda imiphumela yezinduna nama-rashes amancane. I-Milk Acid, njenge-Glycolic, iyabekezelelwa kahle ngezinhlobo eziningi zesikhumba. Ukusetshenziswa kwasekhaya, ukudla nge-lactic acid kumele kube nokuqoqwa kwamaphesenti ayi-10 noma ngaphansi, nge-pH acishe ibe ngu-3.5-4.
L-ascorbic acid
I-L-ASCORBIC Acid iyi-vithamini C esuselwa, evame ukusetshenziswa kakhulu njenge-antioxidant esikhunjeni. Ukusetshenziswa kwama-antioxidants kunciphisa ukuguga kwamangqamuzana esikhumba, kuthuthukisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen futhi kuhlanza ama-pores esikhunjeni. Imikhiqizo enalolu hlelo lwe-acid dermatologists kunconywa ukuthi lusebenze ekuseni, futhi ngemuva kokumboza nge-moisturizing ne-sunscreen. UDkt Angela IWundlu, udokotela wesikhumba kanye nomqondisi we-dermatology Wract of the Faculty of Westside Mount Mount Sinai eNew York, waphawula ukuthi uvithamini C futhi angasiza ukuvumelanisa ithoni yesikhumba nokuhle ukubuyekeza amaseli. Ukuhlushwa kwevithamini C emikhiqizweni kufanele kube ngamaphesenti ayi-10 kuye kwangama-20.
I-FERULIC Acid
Kanye ne-Vitamin C, i-Ferulic acid isetshenziswa njenge-antioxidant, futhi ivimbela futhi iphathe amabala ezinkunga. Ama-dermatologists ancoma ukusebenzisa i-serum nokhilimu nge-ferulic acid phambi kwe-moisturizing ne-sunnscreen njalo ekuseni. I-Ferulic acid ine- "access ebuthakathaka" futhi isetshenziswa esikhundleni se-ejenti esinzileyo, ngakho-ke amaphesenti uqobo e-acid ajwayelekile awacaciswanga kwilebula yomkhiqizo.
Ukuphikisana nokusetshenziswa kwama-acid ukunakekelwa
Uma unesikhumba esicasukile noma esiphukile, izinduna ezibonakalayo, akufanele usebenzise ama-acid - kungcono ukufuna izeluleko kudokotela wesikhumba. Njengoba manje uyazi, iningi lama-acid athandwayo liyadinisa amaseli aqeda amandla, okusho ukuthi baqeda ungqimba oluvikelayo lwesikhumba. Ngemuva kokusebenzisa ama-acid, isikhumba siba nokuzwela ukukhanya kwelanga - Sebenzisa njalo ngezenzo eziningi ngebanga elibanzi (UVA plus UVB) SPF 30+ bese ulisebenzisa njalo emahoreni amabili noma amane. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ama-acid akufanele adale ukushiswa noma ukucasuka kwesikhumba. Ungazizwa uthambile lapho usebenzisa umkhiqizo, kepha hhayi ngemuva kokuthi isusiwe.
Bheka izincomo zomkhiqizi
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Kufanele uqaphele ukuthuthuka esimweni sesikhumba phakathi nesonto noma amabili ngemuva kokusetshenziswa - ukugqama okubushelelezi, ukuthamba kwesikhumba, ukukhanyisa. Umphumela obonakalayo emibimbi engajulile uzobona ngemuva kwamaviki ayi-12 noma kamuva. Ngaphambi kokusebenzisa umkhiqizo omusha, thintana nodokotela - udokotela wezikhumba noma udokotela wezimonyo.