Ukutholwa okuningi okumangalisayo kuza kwi-cosmetology kusuka kwezokwelapha, ne-ferulic acid, okuzoxoxwa ngakho, akukho okuhlukile. Ibizwa nge-3-Methoxy 4-hydroxy phenylpropenic acid - le nto yemvelo yemvelaphi yesitshalo, etholakele irayisi bran, ama-apula, ukolweni, ama-oats, amantongo emisemitha, amaphayinaphu, ikhofi.
Ngisho nangaphambi kokuthola ukuthandwa ku-cosmetologists, i-ferulic acid yasetshenziswa ngenkuthalo ngodokotela njengesithako esivikela ngemisebe. Kutholakale ukuthi kuthuthukisa izinkomba zomtholampilo kubantu abanesifo se-radiation, kunomthelela we-antimutagenic, kunciphisa izinga lokudakwa komzimba futhi kuvikele izitho zangaphakathi ezivela emikhaleni (amathumbu, i-spleen). Kufakazela nekhono layo lokuqeda amaphutha we-cell genome (ngezifo ezinomdlavuza) futhi ubuyisele amaseli ezinzwa.
Ngokwemvelo, ngokuba yingxenye yemvelo yodonga lwamaseli emifino, i-ferulic acid ivikela izitshalo ebubini obuhlukahlukene nasezingozini - isithwathwa, isomiso, imimoya, ilanga elinolaka. Ngokufanayo, kuthinta amaseli abantu: kwandisa izakhiwo zabo zokuvikela, kubuyisela ama-membranes weseli, kuvuselela izinqubo zokuvuselela kabusha.
Akumangazi ukuthi abakhiqizi bezimonyo abanentshisekelo kwizakhiwo eziyingqayizivele ze-ferulic acid futhi banquma ukuyisebenzisa kwiresiphi yezindlela ezahlukahlukene. Ngemuva kwakho konke, i-filelic acid:
Kuthuthukisa izindawo zokuvimbela nokuvikela isikhumba;
kuthuthukisa ukucasuka, kuqinisa izindonga zemikhumbi futhi kunciphise ukuvumela kwabo;
kuvusa ukuhlanganiswa kwe-collagen kanye ne-elastin, kubuyisela imicu yokuxhuma bese kunciphisa imibimbi;
ukugcizelela isikhumba futhi kunomthelela ekubuyiselweni kwesithiyo se-lipid;
ine-antimed anti-inflammatory kanye nomphumela we-anti-allergic;
Ukulwa nakwithwele nge-bacterium ehlukahlukene (kuvimbela ukukhula kwawo womabili ama-bacterium ama-gram-positive ne-gram);
inesenzo sokuhlola, sinikela ekuphulukisweni komonakalo, amanxeba, izilonda;
kuvuselela izinqubo ze-metabolic kanye nokuthola impilo yeselula;
Kuvimbela amaprotheni glycation (I.E., isixuku samaprotheni noshukela, ngenxa yokuthi izinga lesikhumba elixhumanisa izikhumba libi kakhulu);
Isheshisa izinqubo zokususwa kobuthi esikhunjeni;
Igcina i-DNA ye-Fibroblasts (isisekelo sesikhumba) futhi ithuthukisa ukuhlukaniswa kwayo;
kwandisa ukuqina nokuqina kwesikhumba;
Kwandisa amandla we-ascorbic acid ukuvuselela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen;
Kuvimbela ukubhujiswa kwamavithamini e ngaphansi kwethonya le-ultraviolet.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, kuqinisa izixazululo ze-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) futhi kwandisa kakhulu ukusebenza kahle kwamavithamini, a no-E (okubizwa ngokuthi yi-syneregistic). Ngakho-ke, kuma-ejenti wezimonyo, i-ferulic acid ivame ukutholakala ngokuhlanganiswa nalawa mavithamini.
Azikho ama-radicals wamahhala!
Ngokwehlukana, kufanelekile ukusho izakhiwo ze-antioxidant ze-ferulic acid. Njengoba kwaziwa, ngaphansi kwethonya le-ultraviolet nezinye izinto ezingezinhle zezemvelo kumaseli, kuphakama amakhemikhali angafuneki: ama-molecule akhiwa, abizwa ngegama lama-radicals wamahhala. Ukuba namandla amakhulu, ama-radicals wamahhala angahlasela amaseli anempilo futhi abhubhise cishe noma yiziphi izakhiwo zebhayoloji. Izisulu ze-oxidation of the cell, nazo, ziqala izinqubo zokuguga ngaphambi kwesikhathi. Ngakho-ke, ama-cosmetologists nama-dermatologists emhlabeni wonke anaka kakhulu ukuvikela ama-antioxidant kanye nezithako ezihambisanayo. Ama-antioxidants athathise umphumela wama-radicals wamahhala futhi adlale indima ebalulekile ekuvimbeleni hhayi kuphela ukuguga kuphela, kodwa futhi nezinguquko ezimbi kumaseli.
"I-Ferulic acid iyi-antioxidant yemvelo enamandla kakhulu," kusho uTatyana Trothenko, udokotela we-Derma-tokostologist we-Astreya Company. - Ngaphezu kwalokho, izakhiwo zalo zithuthukiswa kakhulu kwi-tandem enamavithamini a, e noC. Symbiosis yalezi zinto zibulawa yimisebenzi yamahhala, ukuvimbela "ukwehlukanisa".
I-Ferulic acid isebenza ngempumelelo yonke ifomu lama-radicals wamahhala owaziwa ngo-Indaba: umoya-mpilo, ikhabhoni, i-nitrogen. Kuliqiniso, akusho ukuthi ukusebenzisa izindlela ezisuselwa kuso, akudingekile ukuthi usebenzise ukhilimu ovikela ilanga. Mhlawumbe, iphutha kule akhawunti livuke ngenxa yokuthi izakhiwo ezizuzisayo zale acid ziyanda ngaphansi kwethonya le-ultraviolet, kanye nonjiniyela bezimonyo, ngokwemvelo, banaka lokhu ngesikhathi sokukhiqiza. Akukwenzi mqondo ukwethula i-ferulic acid kumakhilimu ebusuku noma ukuncoma imali ngokususelwa kubahlali basenyakatho kude - umphumela nje ngeke nje uvume okulindelwe.
Okhilimu abane-ferulic acid banconyelwa ikakhulukazi ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba esivuthiwe, ngezimpawu zezithombe, owomile, ophelayo kanye nesikhumba esinamanzi, kanye nesikhumba nge-hyperpigmentation. Amanye amafemu angenisa i-FC kwizimonyo ze-sunscreen, kepha kungcono ukuyisebenzisa ngokwahlukana kokhilimu wosuku. Kuwusizo ikakhulukazi ukwenza isifundo nge-ferulic acid emasontweni amathathu ngaphambi kweholide ukulungiselela isikhumba ukuba solise kakhulu, susa umbala ophansi wobuso, ukhiphe umswakama wesikhumba. "
Ifomula eyimfihlo
Noma yiziphi izakhiwo eziphawuleka zine-acid ye-ferulic, kusadinga ukulethwa kumaseli esikhumba, futhi ngemuva kwakho konke, i-horny (engenhla) yesikhumba ayiphuthelwa lutho ngalutho (ngenye indlela, isikhumba sethu besingeke sibe yisithiyo ).
"Izithako eziningi zezimonyo kakhulu azingeni ekujuleni kwesikhumba, zisele ebusweni be-epidermis, - ziyaqhubeka uTatyana Trotsenko, - Kepha ososayensi bathole indlela abahamba ngayo izinto zokuhamba - ngosizo lwe-liposoma. I-Spanish Ekhathaza I-Laboratories Sesderma Laboratories ithuthukise uhlobo lwemali olusha lwemali olususelwa kwimpumelelo yakamuva emkhakheni we-nanotechnology ukuletha izakhi ezidingekayo, kufaka phakathi i-ferolovic acid ngqo kumaseli esikhumba aqondayo. Kulokhu, isithako esisebenzayo sibekwe kuma-caplule e-nano-usayizi we-nano, ngokuya ngesakhiwo solwelwesi olufanayo lweseli lomuntu. Engxenyeni yokuqala yama-liposomes, izingxenye ezingenazinye ze-soluble ziyaqedwa, futhi emgodini ngaphakathi kwe-capsule - kunyibilika amanzi. Ngakho-ke, zonke izinto ezidingekayo zilethwa esikhunjeni, ngasikhathi sinye ukuhambisana okuphezulu kwebhayibheli namaseli anikezwayo. Ubukhulu be-Masher kanye ne-liposoma ephakeme ephezulu ibavumela ukuba bathuthuke kalula ekujuleni okunikezwe futhi bazithinte ngokukhetha lezo noma ezinye izakhiwo zesikhumba. "
Emigqeni ngokususelwa ku-ferulic acid kusuka ku-lipoceutical eyethulwe izidakamizwa eziningana ezenzelwe ukubhekana ngempumelelo ne-Photoretation.
Okokuqala, sikhuluma nge-feerac peel classic / plus peels, ebhekana kahle nezinkinga ezinjengezikhumba ezibangelwa yi-ultraviolet, izinguquko ezihlobene nobudala, ithoni yesikhumba. I-Plus enkulu yalezi zimali ukuthi ziyinkathi yonke futhi zilungele zonke izinhlobo zesikhumba. Vele, njengoba ngemuva kwanoma yikuphi ukukhonkotha, kuzodingeka usebenzise ama-sunscreen creams, kepha ngokungafani nezinye izindiza ze-fiereline kungenziwa ngisho nasehlobo.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukubhebha nge-ferulic acid kuvikela amaseli e-DNA, kuhlinzeka nge-antioxidant "Armor", kunomthelela wokulwa nokuvuvukala, kuqinisa imicu ye-collastin kanye ne-elastin. Inkambo enconyiwe iqukethe izinqubo eziyisikhombisa ngokuphumula ngesonto.
Njengesengezo sokwenza i-werfiting to pereling, mist ferulac nano addittive, esibuyisa i-dermal matrix, kuvimbela ukubukeka kwamabala ezingulube futhi kukhanyisela okukhona, kunciphisa ukulimala okubangelwa yi-ultraviolet.
Ukwehlisa ukucindezelwa kwesikhumba oxidant, isistimu emibili evuselela ama-liposomal Ferulac anti-anting ilungile. Umuthi wokuqala ulwa kanzima nge-Photoretation, uqinisa umphumela we-ferolovy pulengs, ususa imigqa nemibimbi. Ukulungiswa kwesibili ngenxa yenhlanganisela yenhlanganisela ye-hyaluronic holluronic acid ephakeme inomphumela wokujula okujulile, kuthambisa ukwakheka kwesikhumba, kuvuselela ukukhiqizwa kwamaprotheni (lapho kwakhiwa khona amaprotheni (lapho kwakhiwa khona imicu emisha ye-collagen). Uhlelo lulungele isikhumba esivuthiwe ngemuva kweminyaka engama-40-45, lusetshenziselwa kanye noma kabili ngosuku. Isidakamizwa sesibili sisetshenziswa kuphela ngemuva kokutholwa okugcwele kokuqala.
Okwesikhumba esincane (kusuka eminyakeni engama-25 kuye kwengama-40), imali ye-liposomal ilungele kahle eLiposomal Ferulac Ampoules ampoules, ukukhanya kwe-liposomal Ferulac Mist noma i-Liposomal Ferulac Serum. Okufanele ukuvimba ukukhetha kwakho kuzoncoma ubuhle be-beautician ngokususelwa kwizidingo zomuntu ngamunye zesikhumba. Onke la mathuluzi anakekelwa kahle isikhumba esinamanzi futhi alimele, ahlinzeke ngokuvikelwa kwe-antioxidant, athambisa futhi avuseleleke, asuse amabala e-pigment, avikele amaseli e-DNA kusuka ku-ultraviolet.
Kungenzeka ukufaka imali hhayi ebusweni kuphela, kodwa futhi entanyeni nasendaweni ye-neckline, lapho kunesikhumba esincanyana ikakhulukazi, kuncike ekugugeni kokuqala nokuvezwa okwedlulele kokukhanya kwelanga.