Ngokusho kwenye yemibono ethandwayo, izingxenye zokuqala zeqhawe lethu zanamuhla zatholakala ngesikhathi kubunjiwe kwamathuna abudala bethusi. Kodwa-ke, abacwaningi baphikisana nale nguqulo, ngoba ukuthunga kulezo zikhathi ezikude bekungalindelekile ukuba kwenziwe kanjalo ukuze kudale ucezu lwengubo olunzima. Futhi kubhekwa ngempela ukuba seCroy, inani lezinto kanye nobuchwepheshe bokuthunga. Ngakho-ke vuma ukuthi lapho kutholakala lapho kutholakala njenge-tuxedo, kodwa namanje ama-prototypes angempela kufanele afune ngezikhathi hhayi kude kangako.
Iziqalo ezihlobene
Ekuqaleni kwavela ugeduk. Leli gama lesiFulentshi lazalwa ngekhulu le-XVIII, kanye nezingubo, ezibonisiwe. Babeyigqoka eRussia. Ngakho-ke, uPetru ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-XVIII wajezisa wonke umuntu, ngaphandle kwabalimi nabefundisi, wagqoka inkanyezi enjalo ngqo. Futhi yize lezi zingubo zingakuthandi lokhu, njengoba bonke ababengazithandi ngalezo zinsuku, kodwa bekufanele bakugqoke. Ngeke uhambe ngokumelene nenkosi. EFrance, konke kwaba okuphambene nalokho: lapho i-surtuke yayithathwa njengento ehlonishwayo ye-wardrobe, kungenzeka ukuyigqoka kuphela ngenkosi evumayo. Imvume enjalo yagcizelela izinga lezenhlalo laseVelmazby, ukubaluleka kwalo nolwazi, futhi kwabadla khona egcekeni umuntu angamashumi amahlanu, akusekho. Uthunga "umkhulu omkhulu" ijakhethi kusuka ezindwangu ezibizayo - amabhasi kanye ne-velvet, ehlotshiswe nge-embroidery enothile namatshe ayigugu.
Kodwa-ke, maphakathi nekhulu le-XVIII, lo mthwalo wangenasisekelo, futhi indawo engenalutho yathatha igrazi - kulokhu kuvela kwavela, ngemuva kwayo, ngemuva kwe-falda ende. Ekuqaleni wayenguhlobo nje lwesiphathimandla, njengoba lulula kakhulu ngokugibela amahhashi - phansi amade awaphazamisi futhi angadideki phakathi kwemilenze. Engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu le-XIX, abantu abajwayelekile baqala ukugqoka. Futhi hhayi ngamabhulukwe, kepha kuphela nama-palles.
I-Tuxedo yavela cishe ngesikhathi esisodwa noFrak - ngekhulu le-XIX
Photo: Pixabay.com/Ru.
Lapho ukuqhekeka kufika eRussia, izingubo zaseYurophu zazivele zivele zivele. Ngokushesha waba isitayela, ememeza futhi ebangela izingubo, wayazisa abantu abasha abaphambili. Kuliqiniso, ekhipha i-Ekaterina II, lapho konke kwenzeka khona, okusha akuvumanga. Futhi ukuze kushaye izintshisekelo zezinto zaphesheya kwabantu abasha, amadokodo ajwayelekile abe ngamaphasi ajwayelekile abe yiminyaka. Ezinsizini ezinesibindi, lokhu kuhlekisa kuye kwaba nobunzima, futhi baqhubeka nokuhlobisa ngezingubo zemfashini. Kepha konke kwaphela ngokushesha: Paul ngacelwa isihlalo sobukhosi. Indoda enemithetho eqinile, yanquma ukungabi yintsha nentsha futhi iyenqabele into engenamzimba ekhabethe. Kodwa-ke, washeshe wabuya uNikolai mina njengomfaniswano wezikhulu. Uphenduke umfaniswano wombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noma omnyama. Izakhamizi zingagqoka ama-frances zeminye imibala: nsundu, isihlabathi, oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noma lwesinaphi, kepha isitayela sasifana. Futhi, ngendlela, ucishe washintsha kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, kuphela ukuqokwa sekushintshile - manje sekuyizingubo zakusihlwa nezehlakalo eziqinile. Engxenyeni yokuqala yekhulu lamashumi amabili, kwakhiwa imithetho yokugqoka kwayo nokuthunga kwayo. Ukuqhekeka kwebhola kwakusenkingeni enkulu yamacala amnyama, kepha kwesinye isikhathi kuvunyelwe mhlophe. Kodwa-ke, i-lining emnyama kumele ngabe yaba mhlophe. Uqede isithombe sesilinda.
Kuphenduka endaweni yesehlakalo
I-Tuxedo yavela cishe ngesinye isikhathi noFrak - ngekhulu le-XIX. Ngokokuqala ngqa, kukhulunywa ngaye encwadini yemiyalo ye-tailor Henry Pula edumile, eyayithatha ngo-1865 ukuthunga ingubo yenkosana.
Kepha uma ukuqhekeka ngokushesha kwaba yinto ehlelekile, khona-ke i-Tuxedo ekuqaleni yayisekufana nokukhethwa kwengubo yasekhaya. Kwenzeke kanjani? Iqiniso ngukuthi ukubonakala kwakhe kwasiza inqubomgomo yamakoloni ephethwe uMbuso WaseBrithani. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho kusukela ekukhanyiseni okusha eYurophu kwaqala ukuwa isitshalo esaziwa kakhulu ngaleso sikhathi - ugwayi. Ngeshwa wajoyina ukubhema. Ukuze ungacasuli amantombazane ngephunga, avale emakamelweni ahlukene. Futhi ngaphambi kokuphuma ehholo, bagqoka izingubo ezikhethekile, ukuze bangabhemi intuthu. Waqala ukubizwa ngokuthi i-tuxedo egameni elibhemayo - "ukubhema". Amajakhethi alesosikhathi ayefana nama-bathrobes amafushane kanye nemishini yawo enziwa njalo. Okokuqala, bavikelekile entuthu. Okwesibili, umlotha, owile emathaphemevu e-satin, wagibela kalula phansi, futhi amadoda ahlala khona kukhanya kwasekuqaleni. (Ngendlela, sizokwenza amazwi amancane: Manje umbuzo wokungabhemi angabhalwa njenge- "tuxedo encationdled").
Amadoda ahlangana ndawonye - lolu hlobo lweqembu ngentshisekelo. Kancane kancane, lezo zingubo ezinjalo zaqala ukugqoka hhayi kuphela emakamelweni okubhema, kodwa nakwezinye izindawo lapho ama-Myncemen ahlangana khona: emihlanganweni yebhizinisi nasemihlanganweni enobungane. Kodwa-ke, i-tuxedo yayisesesimweni esiphansi kunokwephulwa. Ekuqaleni, umphakathi ophakeme kakhulu futhi uzwe akamfuni ngaye, wakubeka ekwamukeleni bekumane nje akwamukeleki. Kepha isikhathi sahamba, futhi izicukuthwane zaze zaguquka ukuba zigqoke isidlo sakusihlwa hhayi ekuqhekekeni kahle, kodwa egqoke njalo. Le metamorphosis yenzeka ekugcineni kwekhulu le-XIX, lapho iYurophu ibhekana nentshisekelo kukho konke okuhlotshaniswa neMpumalanga. Kulokhu faka imbongi yesiNgisi uGeorge Byron, owahamba yonke iTurkey. Ngokungafani nokungathandeki, ama-fraks angenakugwetshwa, i-tuxedo yayikhululekile futhi ngakho-ke yaphenduka ngokushesha izembezeli ukuthola kabusha.
IMarlene Diethrich ku-Tuxedo ne-Cylinder
Photo: Uhlaka oluvela ku-movie "Morocco"
EMelika, wathandwa ngaphambi kokuqala kweNgilandi. Ngo-1886, abadumile Dandy kanye nogwayi magnate Griswold Loriyard wabonisa umphakathi ku tuxedo Ipaki country club, eduze New York, kusihlwa jacket ne kasilika lapels, kodwa ngaphandle fald phrato. Ngokushesha ngokushesha, wonke ama-Elite aseMelika asekhuthaze izembatho ezinjalo. Kusukela lapho, abaseMelika bayibiza ngokuthi iTuxedo.
Ngekhulu lama-20, amantombazane adonsela iqembu lethu. UMarlene Diedrich uvele ku-movie "Morocco" ku-Tuxedo nesilinda, futhi kwakuyisiqalo nje. I-IV Saint Laurent yasheshe yathatha icala. Ngo-1962, uMklami odumile wavula umkhiqizo wakhe futhi wakhombisa iqoqo elishintshe umfashini. Ugqoke amantombazane emabhulukweni namajakethi. Okwakubhekwa ngaphambili okokugqoka kwabesilisa, kusukela manje kuqhubeke, kwaba ukugqama okuyinhloko kwama-wardrobe weLadies. Ekupheleni kwamashumi ayisithupha, i-Tuxedo yaphenduka imfanelo ebaluleke kakhulu yengubo yabesifazane yabesifazane ayikaze ibe ne-par enengubo encane emnyama coco Chamel.
Ukuphula imingcele
Iminyaka eyikhulu namashumi amahlanu, ijakhethi yabesilisa kusihlwa yashintsha kancane. Kepha namhlanje kunohlu olusungulwe kahle lwezidingo okufanele zibulawe kahle. Amabhulukwe akhiqizwa ngaphandle kwekhono lokugqoka ibhande, kusetshenziswa imibala emibalabala. I-Tuxedo Light Shades - into engavamile kakhulu, ukuzijwayeza kuphela inkathi efudumele nasemishadweni. Umbala omnyama usemhlabeni wonke. Kusuka ebucwebecwebe, indoda ebeka leli jantshi ikwazi ukukhokhela kuphela. Iwashi - ephaketheni kuphela. Impahla yomsila wayo uvolo. Ngaye wagqoka ibhande lesilika noma i-vest emnyama. I-vest kufanele yenziwe ngendwangu, esetshenziswa emathangeni. Ilineni noma ukotini, kuyaqabukela kusuka kusilika. I-Bow Tie yenziwa ngenhlanganisela yoboya nosilika ... Ngokuvamile, cabanga ngalesi sifo sikaJames James Bonda - axolisise ngesitayela esiqinile saseBrithani.
Kungani udinga yonke le mithetho? Vele ukuphula! Futhi manje asithethelelwe ukugqoka i-tuxedo ne-jeans, ukunciphisa izinga le-pathos. Noma hlanganisa ngokuphelele ijakhethi eqinile enamabhande, njengoba ithanda ukwenza uRobert Downey Jr., ULuka Wilson nabanye abalingisi abaningi. Izixazululo zombala zihlukile kakhulu. Ngendlela, amathanga kungenzeka angabi yisilika noma i-satin, kodwa, ngokwesibonelo, isikhumba, iVelvet, sakhukhuleka ngama-rhinestones noma ama-sequins. Enguqulweni yokugcina, izinkanyezi ze-rap ne-R'n'b ziyathandwa.
Futhi-ke, nesandla sokukhanya sika-Iva Saint-Lauren, leli jantshi lingagunda hhayi kuphela amanenekazi. Emfashini wanamuhla, umehluko womzimba wensikazi kanye nezingubo zabantu zabantu udumile kakhulu. Ngokusho kwabaklami abaningi, izinto ezimbi kakhulu zekhabethe ziyakwazi ukunikeza ubuhle obukhethekile kanye nobulili entombazaneni. I-Tuxedo imvamisa ingabonakala kumaqoqo wezindlu ezifashisayo njengoStella McCartney, u-Isabel Marant noma uRalph Lauren.
Amamodeli wabesifazane ahluke kakhulu kowesilisa. Zisenye indlela, zine-silhouette ehlukile futhi azikhawulwanga emithethweni eqinile. Kodwa-ke, isici esisobala seTuxedo yisitayela saso esihle, esibandakanya ukugqokwa kwale ngubo zombili esimweni esiqinile nanjengenketho yokuphuma okungahlelekile. Ukuhlukahluka kwalokhu kugqoka kubukeka kunzima kakhulu, okunye okuncane, kepha noma kunjalo kufanele uqonde ukuthi i-Tuxedo ihlala ingumcimbi, futhi kaningi kakhulu ukuthi ungagqoka ingubo.
Ngamanye amagama, thenga ibhulukwe elihle nebhulukwe elishisayo - liyingxenye kuphela. Udinga ukunquma ukuthi ungayigqoka kanjani futhi okufanele uyihlanganise. Ngiyabonga uNkulunkulu, abesifazane bephula imithetho kalula njengamadoda. Masiyisebenzise. Isibonelo, faka amabhulukwe aqinile kuma-jeans amancanyana: Kulesi sithombe ungangena ngokuphepha ngisho nasemhlanganweni nezintombi. Ungakhohlwa kuphela ngezicathulo eziphakeme kakhulu nezinto zezesekeli ezisesimweni samaketanga amancane namasongo. Noma qaphela inketho yezocansi ngokweqile - ijakhethi, efanelekile ngaphezulu kwenhlanganisela yokugqoka. Isithombe esinjalo sizoheha ukunakwa ngokuphelele. Futhi ikakhulukazi i-Bold Fashionista ingayiphonsa futhi nakancane emzimbeni onqunu - igcizelela kakhulu amafomu. I-Tuxedo ehhovisi? Yebo, kepha kuphela uma sikhuluma ngo nzalo oyingqayizivele weqhawe lethu kanye nejazi elijwayelekile, ngaphandle kwesicwebezelisi esiveziwe, ngaphandle kwengozi, uma kungenjalo ubeka engcupheni ibinzana elidume kakhulu mayelana nomkhankaso "ukuze usebenze njengeholide."
Ukufingqa, ake sithi, avela unyaka nengxenye edlule, iTuxedo cishe ngokushesha yathatha indawo ehlala isikhathi eside esibhakabhakeni esishisayo. Manje bobabili abesilisa nabesifazane bavela kuwo kumathrekhi abomvu noma kumathrekhi abomvu noma ezingxoxweni zethelevishini futhi bagqokwa ngenkuthalo empilweni yansuku zonke.