Imfashini ingabizwa ngesibindi yomkhakha weselula futhi oguquguqukayo wezobuciko: izinkomba zawo zishintsha njalo ngeminyaka eyishumi (uma kungenjalo ezingaphezu kwama). Kepha ithuba elinamandla kakhulu futhi elingalindelekanga eMkhakheni Wama-Arofikiziwazi Izazi zibheka leminyaka ekhanyayo yamashumi ayisithupha. Izolo ugqoke izingubo ezivinjelwe nezinsikazi ze-a-silhouette, nanamuhla egqoke ngesibindi izigqoko ezihamba nge-trapezoidal-mini imibala "edonsa iso". I-Dorm yemfashini, eyaholela ezingxabanweni zangempela zabadala nasezizukulwaneni ezisencane, yasinika abaklami abanethalente leminyaka leminyaka.
Konke kulomhlaba kuyabonakala futhi kuyaphindwa. Lezi zinkomba zefilosofi zokuthi umhlaba uhlelwe kanjani, kungenzeka ukuthi uguqukele embonini yezemfashini. Kubukeka sengathi inkathi entsha, igcwele iminyaka eyishumi, lapho ubuntu bahlangana khona okokuqala ngeRomatic and Space, ngeke bakuthole ukufana esikhathini esidlule. Futhi nokho namuhla, singasho ngokuqiniseka ukuthi ukuswayipha amashumi ayisithupha, kuyingqayizivele, kuvinjelwe yiminyaka efanayo yamashumi amabili eyingqayizivele - lokhu kuyabonakala ekusikeni kwengubo yowesifazane, kusetshenziswa izesekeli zowesifazane, futhi ngokuvamile Lezi zizukulwane ezimbili, zahlukaniswa cishe isigamu seminyaka, zibonakala zisondelene komunye nomunye emkhathini nangokomoya.
Simply Space!
Noma kunjalo, ngakho konke ukufana, umehluko uyabonakala esweni elinqunu. Izinguquko ezenziwa ngumphakathi ekuqaleni kwamashumi ayisithupha ziphendukele ukuqaphela komuntu. Okokuqala, ukunqotshwa kwesikhala kuyo yonke imikhakha yomsebenzi wethu kwakuyithonya elikhulu kuzo zonke izindawo zomsebenzi wethu. Lapho kwacaca ukuthi ama-expression angapheli womkhathi anganqotshwa, umcabango wososayensi, abaqondisi kanye, ngokwemvelo, abaklami bemfashini bashaywa ngamandla angakaze abonwe. Amaphupho ezimpucuko zangemva kokungemva kokubeletha akhuphukela ekuhambeni okunamandla kwe-futurism: embonini yefilimu kwaholela ekubonakaleni kuka-Arthaus, kanti ipodi ye-podium yathungatha, kwesinye isikhathi isesabisa futhi ngokuqinisekile ayifani namasudi afanele e-classic owesilisa. Amahlombe amakhulu, ama-collars amakhulu, ama-rack-amabhuzu, awenziwanga ngefilakisi elijwayelekile, ukotini, usilika, noma izicubu ze-puzcose, avele ngisho nezicubu ze-space. Isitayela esisha saxoshwa nguPaco Raban no-Elsa Skia Parerelli, uChristobal Balenciaga wasebenzisa kabi izinto ezintsha, ehlisa ukuthandwa okukhulu phakathi kwabantu abasha. UPierre Cardin wethule iqoqo "inkathi ye-cosmos". Ngamafuphi, ama-synthetics anqobisa amakhosi emfashini, okuthi lapho kungabhujiswa okukodwa kwaqala ukucekelwa phansi kwabalingiswa kanye nezinhlobo zobufazi zakudala. Khumbula izithombe zowesifazane wasekhaya ophelele ezingutsheni ezihlanzekile kanye nama-starchy alers? Manje laba bakathisha basendlini baye babhekana nongqikithi wesistimu (futhi babuhlungu kakhulu) bohlelo: esikhundleni sokuhlelela iziketi ezihambisana nokuhleleka kwesibalo se-blouse evinjelwe abahlongozwayo ukuba babe sezingeni lokugqoka. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ubude be-midi be-midi kanye nentofontofo enkulu balahlekelwa yisikhundla saso ngokushesha, banikeza indlela enesibindi. Futhi namhlanje sazi kahle ukuthi ngubani okufanelekile ngalolu hlelo lokusebenza olusha.
Umlobi wesiketi sobulili, okomboleko walo wavula amadolo akhe kanye nengxenye enkulu yethanga, kwakunguMarie Cuant, Lomsitcident Owesifazane onqumayo, ehlukanisa imibono yenguquko yezocansi futhi wahlukanisa umfutho wezobulili. Nguye owasho ibinzana ngo-Isakramental: "Ukunambitheka okuhle ukufa, ama-hultity - impilo!" Mina, ngaqala ukukhiqiza ngentokozo futhi ngiphindaphinda futhi ngingumqambi wemfashini u-Andre Kurrezha, futhi manje amantombazane asemancane asevele ancishiswe emigwaqweni yama-megacities ekugqokeni kwabo izingubo, kanye nonina, "omama abaseduze" abezokufisa "ababanjwa.
Ngokuvamile, ukungqubuzana kwakudala kobaba nezingane, ukuba nendawo esizukulwaneni ngasinye, sekutholile izincazelo ezintsha ngamashumi ayisithupha. Bazali, bafundiswe emasikweni obumsulwa kanye nokuvinjwa, abakwazanga ukwamukela iqiniso lokuthi ubulili bugqekeze impilo yezingane zabo - futhi asize sikhulu ngokuheha okwemvelo, kodwa mayelana nokubonakaliswa kwabo ngamabomu. Isihlalo sokugcina sowesifazane wesampula wakudala kwakunguJacqueline Kennedy. Uhlanganise izigqoko ze-duek enikelwe emphakathini, kepha wasebenzisa ukusikwa kwesimanje kwejometri, izigqoko ezisezingeni elibanzi ziguqulwe kumaphilisi "ama-Berets abubanzi. Kepha maye, uJackie wamthonya amanga ngesizukulwane esisha - ngemuva kokubulawa komngane wakhe womshado, uMongasi uKennedy, wavele wavela emphakathini cishe iminyaka eyishumi, futhi imodeli yokudlala indima yezinhlobo ezisencane, eyaziwa emhlabeni njengama-twiggy.
Mncane njengotshani, nge-radical emfushane ngaleso sikhathi ngocelemba, washintsha isethulo sabaqambi ngalokho okufanele kube yi-mannequin ephelele. I-Twiggy yayifana neyahlanya, engazange ikhiphe kuze kube sekupheleni kwengane: amathanga amancane, amahlombe abukhali, ubuso obuncane obunamehlo amabi, aqala ukuvela kowesifazane omusha, ebeka ukuqala kwe Isifiso esiphilile ngokuphelele samantombazane ukulwa "nokungaphandle" okunesisindo. Ku-TVIGGI abuke kahle izigqoko - ama-trapezoids, okuthiwa yi-babidoll-dress: amafushane, afana nesisulu, adala isithombe se-lolita yanamuhla. Wenza nesango elingenamikhono ngesango eliphakeme, izingubo ze-laconic ezinamakhono amathathu namagwala nezingubo zokugqoka.
Esinye isithonjana esifanayo sesitayela samashumi ayisithupha saqala, njengoba babezosho namhlanje, iLioloss yezwe, iMuziyamu ye-Andy Warhol edumile, ubuhle baka-Edie Sedgevik. Wayebukeka njenge-twiggy njengodadewethu womdabu, kodwa esikhundleni semodeli yomsebenzi akhethe inkatho yeqembu elidumile. USedgevik wavuma okuthiwa yi-Go-Go-Boots - amabhuzu adalwe ngokuqondile ngemidanso. Unethezekile, egxilile, ahlanganiswa ngokuphelele nezingubo ezincane, amabhulukwe amasha e-capri nama-jean anesikhumba futhi avunyelwe ukuba nethuba lomnikazi wabo ubusuku bonke.
Kepha akubona bonke abakhange isithombe sentombazane ye-nymphite, cishe i-ether ebalulekile. Phakathi kwamamodeli, umncintiswano we-twiggy kwakuyi-meneshka yaseJalimane, engagcini nje nge-podium, eyenzela inhlanganisela eyinqaba ye-Ass kanye ne-andfinity, kodwa futhi ibekelwe inkanyezi eCult Film Micsestonioni. Ngemuva kwalokho wakhathazeka ngekhono lakhe elichumayo no-Elizabeth Taylor. Kumashumi ayisithupha, umlingisi oneminyaka engamashumi amathathu ubudala asevele egqoke izinga leNdlovukazi yaseHollywood, ashade okwesine futhi aphefumulela abaklami ngesitayela sabo esihle, kodwa esinjalo esibonakalayo. I-anyanisi ephelele eLeopard, amasudi we-brouser emhlophe futhi, ngokweqiniso, ukwakheka okuvamile ngemicibisholo esuka esithombeni esithi "Cleopatra" yenze isithonjana sangempela sikaTaylor.
Ngokwemvelo, akunakwenzeka ukuba uzungeze ukunakwa nokuzwela kanye nobulili be-French Star Brick BARD, esephenduke uphawu lwangempela lwezocansi lwamashumi ayisithupha. Wayengafani nanoma yimuphi umlingisi we-cinema amakhulu - eBardo, kwakuhlanganiswe nobukhulu obukhulu bobusha, ukuvundwa okusheshayo nokumangalisa okumangalisayo. Ngokungafani namaqhawe akhe, iBrigit yayinamahloni kakhulu, akhathazeke ngokubukeka kwakhe, kodwa ngasikhathi sinye ayejabulela ukuthandwa okukhulu kubobulili obuhlukile. Umlingisi wagqoka ama-blease avuselelekile ngama-vests, iziketi ezimfushane, amabhuzu, ahlanganise izinwele zawo ezimbi emgodini ophakeme kakhulu noma uBalett odumile. Lokhu kubeka kwangena ku-classic amaningi futhi namanje kunamahloni abesifazane abaningi. Kodwa-ke, izitayela zezinwele kufanele zitshelwe ngokwahlukana.
Ephakeme futhi ephakeme
Inguquko yezocansi, esivele siyishilo, ayithinteki nje kuphela ukuthi izingane zigqolozeke kangakanani (khumbula izigqoko zemvunulo u-Iva Saint-Laurean for Catherine Dener, kodwa futhi Izinwele. Esikhathini esedlule, ukubekwa okuyinkimbinkimbi kwe-curl ye-curl kuhambile ku-curl, izinwele ezivulekile zeHollywood azizange zimiswe umncintiswano nge "bestta" efanayo, ukudala kuphela ukunyusa isitolo, kusonteke ku-unassum ifindo futhi udedele imicu embalwa edlalayo. Kepha ngisho wawungaphansi kwendalo ye-stylist vidal sassun. Izinwele zezinwele zezinwele ze-twiggy, mia farrow nezinye izinkanyezi - izandla zakhe. Indlela yakhe yokushintsha kwesitayela sabesifazane ibingaguquki: azikho "izidleke ezindala" kanye "nezinsika zenyosi", njengenkosi encane nenesibindi sezinwele zezinwele ezibizwa ngokuthi yileso sikhathi, kuphela i-geometry emsulwa kuphela! "I-Chanel hairstyle" yabizwa kakhulu emibuthanweni yeSassun, isikhathi eside sasebenzisana noMarie Kuant. Ukusebenza noMdali weziketi ezincane, waxwayisa ngokuthi uzoqondiswa yisimiso sakhe - ukusika konke okungadingekile. Ngakho-ke i-podium yaphuma amamodeli avela emgodini onobukhali obukhali kumabhontshisi amafushane namaphiko adlalayo. Umgcini wezinwele odumile waqhamuka nefilosofi ephelele yokusebenza ngezinwele, asungulwe yi-Slogan Wash-n-Go (ngokoqobo "wageza wahamba"). Kwasiza kakhulu amantombazane ukunakekelwa okujwayelekile: abadingi amathani ama-varnish, noma usizo lwama-stylists, kuphela i-shampoo ne-comb. Izinwele zikaSassin zabukeka zingenakuqhathaniswa.
I-geometric kare, eyayikhazinyuliswa iMaestro, yahlanganiswa ngokuphelele nomkhuba ojwayelekile - abaklami baye bahlanya ngezigcawu, onxantathu, ama-ovals kanye nemibuthano. Ukugoqa kuma-abstract ngemidwebo, i-geometry ethokozisayo ihlotshise lonke ikhabethe, bowesifazane nabesilisa. U-Emilio Puchchi waphumelela ikakhulukazi ekuphindiseni amaphrinta futuristic.
I-chic ekhethekile yayibhekwa njengokugqoka isikwele esivela eSassun, amabhuzu aphezulu kanye nengubo yokuhamba nge-trapezing, eqinile, isibonelo, kusuka ku-vinyl. Ukusuka ezintweni ezinhle kakhulu, ibhulukwe laligcwele ngokuphelele (eduze nasekupheleni kwamashumi ayisithupha kwaqala ukungena kuma-clams), nejazi. Lesi sithombe saphothulwa ngemicibisholo emnyama ecacile kanye nama-eyelashes amnyama. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho umphumela we- "paws e-spase" eqale ekuhambeni, lapho umdwebi wezimonyo ngomusa, ungqimba phezu kwesendlalelo ebekelwe i-mascara eliwugqinsi. Futhi akukho lipstick! Njenge-resort yokugcina, yavunyelwa ukukhomba izindebe ngethoni elikhanyayo ukuze zingaphazamisi ukunakwa kokwakheka kwamehlo okumangazayo.
Umsindo Womculo
Imboni yefilimu, ubuciko nezomculo ibuye yabonisa nesimo sesizukulwane sokuswayipha. Abaqondisi bahlatshwa umxhwele ngu-Arthaus, iFrance yethule umhlaba "igagasi elisha", no-Andy Warhol kanye noRoy Liechtenstein babeka ubuciko be-pop ngohlobo olusha lobuciko besimanje. Ngokuvamile, izithombe ezigqamile, ezihlukile, zekhathuni ezithathwe ezincwadini zamahlaya futhi zivumelaniswe nempilo yangempela, - kuyindlela enembile kunazo zonke. Ama-tights anemibala abe engeziwe ngokwengeziwe kunoma yisiphi, ngisho nesithombe esiqinile kunazo zonke, futhi abesifazane babukeka njenge-heroine yentsha eyithandayo.
Emhlabeni womculo, okwamanje, ukunyakaza kwedwala kuyakhula futhi kuthola umfutho. Abahlabeleli abaphambili be-Epoch bangamatshe agobhozayo nomholi wabo onobuhlakani uMick Jagger. Ngakho-ke noma ngubani ongazange anqikaze ukuya endaweni yesehlakalo emashidini angenawozi amakhulu, isikhumba esincane sesikhumba kanye nezicathulo ezinkulu ze-vinyl! Bamba izikhundla zabo kanye neBeatles, baqala ukwehlela esiqongweni senkazimulo Jimmy Hendrix kanye noGloomy Jim Morrison ngeqembu lakhe iminyango, banqobe abalandeli bakaBob Dylan. Imizamo kaNancy Sinatra iba yi-Ubiquitous Jazz. I-Rock isheshe ingene esigabeni cishe ama-classics, bese kancane kancane inika ubuqhudelwano amaqembu we-Psychedelic. I-Pink Floyd iqala umsebenzi wayo phakathi kwe-Deep Purple, i-Zeppelin eholwayo kanye ne-zeppelin ejulile ekugcineni kwayo, kodwa izonqoba udumo lwayo lomhlaba kanye nebutho labalandeli ngemuva kwesikhashana. Kuqala amashumi ayisikhombisa.
Izikhathi zokunwetshwa kwesikhala, ukwenqabela ezindimeni ezindala, ukuguqulwa kwezinkani zobuhle besifazane - isizukulwane salabo abakhule ngaphansi kwethonya lenguquko yezocansi nobuntu, lihlala limemori labadali bemfashini futhi libagqugquzela On the fevali. Maka ama-Jacobs cishe njalo ngonyaka uvuma ukuthanda "othisha" bakhe bakaPierre Carda no-Iva Saint-Laurean, uPrada noFendi ababhekise ukubhekisisa esibekiwe engxenyeni yekhulu edlule. ILouis Vuitton yisiphi isizini exhaphaza ama-silhouette, kanye nezinhlaka ze- "cosmic inkathi", kanye neBalenciaga noMoschino.
Imigqa ecacile, i-abstract geometry, izinto ezingajwayelekile zingene ngokuqinile ama-workshop we-couture futhi ngeke zibashiye. Okushoyo nge-mini namabhuzu, ngaphandle kwaso intombazane yesimanje engameleli ikhabethe lakho! Ngenxa yamagugu okucabanga kabusha kwamashumi ayisithupha, singaphinde sibuyele enkathini ekhazimulayo, lapho umuntu efakazela ukuthi uyakwazi ukunqoba kuphela indawo esemhlabeni kuphela yasemhlabeni kuphela, kodwa futhi futhi i-intergalactic. Nazo-ke?