(Iyaqhubeka. Ukususela "rd" Nombolo 25)
I-Twig yaseRussia nxamnye amanenekazi nge-oars
"Ngexesha elifanelekileyo" - kunjalo, kunjalo, inkokeli yenguqu yehlabathi ichaze ifomula yempumelelo? Zonke ndibakho.
Ngo-1965, kwiParis Chaat "Yumat" malunga neemodeli zeSoviet, wabhala: "Akukho nto inokuqhubeka ngakumbi kwimbono yesiqhelo yamannequins. Oku akukwabo bonke ubuhle obuthathaka, kodwa oqhelekileyo ukunika amantombazana aqhelekileyo, alula kakhulu, yendalo. Kwaye ungamangalisi! Abemi baseSoviet! " Phakathi kweMonnequins zasekhaya, ke bekungekho mantombazana anamachaphaza phantsi kweemitha ezimbini ubude. Abazange bangene kwi-Podium ebunzima beentombi ze-thunitor, kwaye endaweni yoko "bajikeleza", ukudibana nombukeli kwaye bayancuma kuye. Abafazi basemhlabeni, ubungakanani behlabathi 46, iimitha ezingamashumi amathandathu anesibhozo, kwintloko. Kwaye emva kokubongoza phesheya, beza kuba beza kuthi "enkosi" ngenxa yobuntu obungalindelekanga. Ngapha koko, ukumangaliswa kwabaphambukeli, amaRussia ayengabantu abagulayo abangenamadoda nabase-Naps, hayi abafazi - izithuthi zendlu zonke (ezihamba namahashe ahambayo, kwaye ihashe liya kuyeka). Babona "abantu baseParissi baseParis kwaneParis ngokwayo." Bayithandile, ngaphandle kwazo zonke iincoko malunga neSoviet Mata Hi.
Ukufika kwam, ngo-70s, "umfazi nge-30" walawula kwi-Soviet Podium-uhlobo lwenenekazi, kwanomfazi onesidima sakhe kwaye unokufumana i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-wadi yakhe kwaye ifumane i-badrobe yakhe), umlomo obomvu obomvu opeyintiweyo, iifom ze-elastic. Nditsho neGantu Makhav, intombazana yaseBarnaul (yayinomntu omangalisayo, omangalisayo) kwiminyaka engamashumi amabini, kwaye kunye nabantwana abangama-30 babonisa. Kodwa eYurophu, imodeli yaseLondon ye-tiggy sele idubandulela (samathundu, i-batug, ngokoluvo lwethu). Ziikhilogramu ezingama-40 kuphela, ubuso bomntu okwishumi elivisayo yintshontsho elinemikhono emilebeleni amantshontsho amakhaya.
Yayiluhlobo olutsha lwemodeli-aluyi kubeka amaphiko ngamandla namandla omdala, kodwa ifana nedinga elingapheliyo le heyday. OLutsha, lo mtsalane ulungele ukugxotha i-bud - yonke into isecaleni. Inomdla. Ibonelelwe kwiminyaka yobudala yenguqu- ngoku elona nyhweba lihle kwihlabathi lefashoni.
Thina kwi-USSR, njengasekuhlaleni, sasilibazisekile ngokubhekisele kwi "Bourgeois Subraurs": Iingcinga zethu zefashoni kunye nobuhle zitshintsha kancinci izidalwa zazo. Kwaye okwangoku, malunga nexesha elinye, bambalwa kakhulu 'amantombazana angca kancinci - amawele aseRussia avela kum, - ngokuthe ngcembe watyhalela "iinkwenkwezi ezindala." Ngayiphi na imeko, ingqokelela yamagcisa entsha yaqala ukukhula, sijonge kuthi.
... Ndibe "ngumtshakazi ongapheliyo wozuko lwe-Zaitsev (kutheni le nto ukubandezeleka ngasese edrafini, ukuphupha ukutshintsha isigqubuthelo esimhlophe kwi" podage gost).
I-nymphs "I-Golden yenkulungwane" - I-Regina Zbarkaya, MILa Romanovskaya, Augun Shantska, iValentina Malakhov - Ka kancinci hamba uye ngasemva. Umntu othile uza kusindisa ukufuduka, umtshato ophumelelayo, kodwa ayingabo bonke abantu abaya 'basindiswa. " Kusenokwenzeka ukuba i-flash eqaqambileyo nengakhathaliyo kwifashoni yesosi iSoviet yexesha likamva le-regina Zbar.
Andizukuthi ndiyazi kakuhle i-Zbar. Kodwa ndagcina ifoto enye ... Hayi, hayi imimandla. Kodwa le foto indikhumbuza ngaloo ngokuhlwa xa ndimbona. I-zbarkaya yayifana nenkanyezi, iwele kwi-shyyle ukuya kwilizwe lesono, - mhlawumbi wanikezela kulonwabo lwakhe kwabanye ...
Apha ndiza kubuyela emva, phakathi kwe-60s, ukuze umfundi ayiqonde into malunga. Ewe, njengoko benditshilo, kwisikali selizwe, emva koko sazi malunga neemodeli. Iifoto zabo zabonakala kuphela "kwi-phession" kuphela elizweni (ezivelisiweyo, ngendlela, indlu yeemodeli), kodwa kwakungahambelani nobuqaqawuli beli ntlungu, amakhadi ehonjini aphethwe zizigidi zoshicilelo " I-Soyuz-Nyuselweyo "Kiorks. Amantombazana aphupha ukuba anjengeSamoova okanye nge-bystriskaya, hayi njenge-Zbar okanye iRomanovskaya. Kodwa kwisangqa esincinci - isangqa sobomi baseSoviet Ubomi - malunga nendawo ye-Zbar, ewe, wonke umntu wayesazi.
Ngokuqinisekileyo kunjalo: I-Brunette nge-karim zbar's jonga-inkwenkwezi i-60s. Ekukhanyiseni kwakhe akunakwenzeka ukufudumeza aba bangaphandle. Kodwa eyona nto iphambili kukuba le nkwenkwezi injalo, kwaye ininzi: nabadlali, iimbongi, kunye namagcisa, ngamagcisa abukhali, ngovuyo babugubungela isilivere ebandayo. . Imibongo yemibongo enikelweyo, amagcisa apeyintiweyo. URugina kwi-MURICE "amashumi amathandathu anesixhenxe kwi-jazz edumileyo eTverkaya. Apha watshaya, kwaye oku kuyonwabele i-Muedial, Andreyi Polznensky, i-Evrey Yevthenkev ... "babephakathi kwabo baxakekileyo, kunye neenkwenkwezi zabo bonke bawela phezulu! (...)
Imodeli e ... Ngokubanzi, yayingalunganga kwindalo ngeenyawo zaya ngequbuliso zangaphelelwa yipodium. Ndiyazi ukuba ubuqaqawuli be-zaitsev bamphatha ngendlela ekhethekileyo. I-zbarkaya yayingeyiyo, njengemodeli, "i-hanger" kwimpahla evaliweyo- mhlawumbi zazizazi ukuzalwa kwefashoni. Umyili wefashoni kunye neyumyuzi yakhe. (...)
Ngo-1963, xa iPierre Cardin, i-Isve Montan kunye neMpuma Juliet Garcow eMoscow, i-ZBarkaya ibizwa ngokuba yi-pheehi kwifashoni-hayi eyethu 'kuthi. Kwiminyaka emine kamva, i-Cardin enye, i-Louis Ferro, iCoco Chanel yafumana uloyiso lwe "Jing Reeser" i-charna "kumnyhadala wefashoni wamazwe onke. "Dade Sophie Loren, utshilo uPierre Cardin.
Kodwa "onikwa lukhulu - ngalonto uya kubuza okuninzi." Ngaphezulu kwe-titoff-kokukhona kuyawa. "Ungatsho ukuba uyolo lude lude lufikelele kubungqina obufayo, yafundiswa kwakudala. Ngoku wonke umntu unomdla - enkosi kumajelo eendaba- ezo zinto zintle zobomi baseZbharkaya sele zivulile, ezo zinto zazingapapashwanga zodwa. . Oku kubhubha. Kwakukho iinzame zokuzibulala ezinqabileyo. IRoma nge-Zhugs yugoslav yentatheli eyaya kwimanyano yayikukubetha. I-Romaphir kunye nelinye ilizwe (!) Kwilizwe le-Iron Curtain! Xa tyelela kwi "Bohemia" iivenkile zokutyela zeBohemiya zinokuphosa emsebenzini! Kodwa ikamva lekamva sele litshabalalisile kwaye licinga ngengcinga. I-Yugoslav iphosakele, ishiya ilizwe lengcebiso kwaye ... lityholwa ngokuvelisa incwadi ye-anti-soviet enefoto yequmrhu le-hina. ULubyanka, onovalo, okanye endaweni yokomoya, isibhedlele. I-podium ibonakala iwela phantsi kwayo ...
Bayakukhumbula ukuba sele siphelile ebomini - kwaye wayeneminyaka engama-50 kuphela (!) - Wayehlala ethe tyaba, wasweleka kwigumbi lakhe, esithi bengakufanelekeli zo ... Zaitsev (uzuko lwakubonakala kwindlu yakhe yefashoni kwindlu yehlabathi) bazama ukuxhasa imyuziyam ye-quance, bathambise imigangatho, ukuba bangene kwimali ethile. Washiya ubomi ngoNovemba 1987, ngo-51, wafunyanwa wasweleka eflethini, bathi, ityhefu ngamayeza ...
Ewe, kwaye ngoku ndiza kubuyela kwifoto oqale ngayo. Le foto indikhumbuza ngaloo ngokuhlwa xa ndimbona. I-Valera Plotnikov ngumfanekiso wethu odumileyo, onamanqaku amaninzi-uninzi lweentsomi ze-ERA I-Zbar emva koko yaphuma emva konyango. Bendifuna ukubuyela emsebenzini - kwaye ndiye ndangena ekudubeni kwethu. Nangona wayebonakala emhle, waqonda ukuba ixesha lakhe lidlulile, ubuso obutsha beza, i-grima entsha, iimpahla ezintsha. Akazange akwazi ukuhlala kwizibonda zangaphambili. Uye waphinda wenza ukohlukana, kwaye waphinda wangena kwisibhedlele sengqondo ...
Ewe! I-zbarkaya yayifana nenkanyezi, iwela kwi-shyyle ukuya kwiLizwe elinesono, olona lonwabo lungaphantsi nokufa kwakhe ... i-Russian Viggi yasinda kwinenekazi elivela kweyona ndawo.
Ukuba sithetha ngeMil Romanovsk (babizwa ngokuba ziintshaba zikaNaphakade kunye neentshaba ezibi kakhulu) -Umntu ovulekileyo waseRussia, ngokungathi kunjalo, kunye ne-invoice). Ihlala isebenza kwisibini esine-hele i-nkquni. Ukuba i-zbaarkaya ibiza ukumkanikazi weqhwa, ndothini na ukuthelekisa nentombazana yekhephu. I-Blooming Blonde, impilo yokuphefumla kunye nokuchwayita. Ndafuduka ngumculi uYurist uYurist, kodwa emva koko bahlukana ... wemka eFrance, wangena eNgilani, ekhokelele kwicandelo lefashoni kwi-BBC kwi-BBC kwiRussia. Ndithenge indlu apho, intombi yam yatshata, yatshata kwakhona ...
Imigangatho yefashoni
Kwaye ndilapha kwindlu enkulu yeemodeli zeManyano, i-Kuzenjyky Bridge, 14.
Indlu ... Wayethelekiswa neehagu, apho abahambi befashoni bathabathela kuyo yonke iSithili saseSoviet: Apha ungaphinda uyibuyisele kwincwadana ", thenga imodeli," Iphephabhuku lemidlalo "...
Nokuba emva kweminyaka engama-40 ndiyikhumbula le ndlu ngeemvakalelo ezikhethekileyo. Ke, uChenkov kwi- "Cherrygadi" uMzalwana uRanenevskaya ngequbuliso ubhenela kwiKhabhinethi yakudala: "IKhabhinethi enxibe i-Multi!" Kwindlalifa ekhulileyo yobungangamsha, le widiji ayisiyo "umxholo wengaphakathi", kodwa ubungqina bexesha lovuyo kunye nexhala, baphila kakhulu kwiintsuku ezintsha. Kwaye ndifuna ukuthi: "Molo, House!"
Ixesha lithatha eyalo. I-MOSCOW iguqukele kwi-oasis ye-boutique kunye namaziko okuthenga. Isakhiwo esineefestile ezinkulu zevenkile, ukuvalelwa kweGranite, ihonjiswe nge-curls ye-stucco, ngoku ayibonakali ngathi yinto eyahlukileyo. Kwizindlu ezindala kwakukho ishawari yokuhlamba. Abanye abantu beza-ii-odolo ezintsha kunye neenjongo ziphuhlisiwe. Kodwa kwenye indawo - mhlawumbi, enzonzobileni yeendonga zamatye, ngokurekhodwa, njengoko kubhalwa, izwi lelinye ixesha, i-14, yayisisiseko sefashoni yaseSoviet Russia. (...)
Imodeli yabasebenzi: "Awungomfazi wendlu!"
(Malunga ne-mannequins.)
Sasihleli kwigumbi elinye yonke imihla kwigumbi elinye, ngokudibeneyo bebekwi-Fittings, kwimiboniso, kodwa bendiqonda ukuba akukho namnye kubo ongenakufana naye. Umsebenzi ayisiyondawo yothando kunye nobuhlobo. Nguwo lo umthetho. I-Blufs, imozulu, iresiphi yemaski ... unokuxoxa nantoni na, hayi ubomi bakho. Ngubani odibana naye, apho bendiye kwimpelaveki, ongutata notata wakho - akufuneki wazi enye into.
Imodeli yanamhlanje inomgaqo "wokulawula": ungaze uxubushe ubomi bakho bobuqu. Kwaye ebomini bendinezifundo ezaneleyo zokuyijonga "igolide"!
Ngokwemvelo, umntu akakhohlakeleyo kwaye angacaphuki. Kubonakala kum ukuba ngaphakathi kwam kukho uhlobo oluthile lomnqweno wokumanyanisa nangokuchanekileyo oku ukuba boyisa abantu, hayi ukuba bahlukane. Ndiyazi kwaye kwindlu yeemodeli ezazi iimfihlakalo ezininzi, kodwa ngokwenene "bazinza" kum. Andikaze ndibandakanywe kwiBhaton "ngasese kwihlabathi liphela." Ukuba kukho into endixelelwe ngayo, emva kwesicelo sabo. Bendingamfumani ngolu hlobo. Andinakukholwa, kodwa mna kuphela kwiminyaka yakutshanje xa wonke umntu ebetha "izityhilelo ezivakalayo", xa iintatheli ziqalisa ukumba "kuluntu lokuqala" okokuqala "okokuqala bafunda izinto ezininzi malunga nala mantombazana Ngubani osebenze naye ecaleni kweminyaka emihlanu.
Inye, iyavela, idibene ne-khmelnitsnnitsky. Kwelinye i-lover bekukho iTaiwan kwaye kukho ubudlelwane nolwaphulo-mthetho. Elesithathu lenzekile ukuphela kokupheliswa kokupheliswa, Lilo lonke ixesha aliziwa ukuba ngubani: beza endlwini yemodeli, egumbini lethu; Beka iSofa, ephethe isandla kwintlungu esiswini; Kufutshane nomgangatho wabeka ibhegi ngezinto zakhe (wayengenandawo yokuhlala). Wabuzwa: "Uthini?" - "Ewe, imbi into, kulungile." Kwaye enyanisweni - kwakhona esibhedlele.
Khange ndithethe nabanye kwaye andifuni ukubamba into ebalini lam. Ndifihle ukuba ndidibana neNikita. Waza ke wabamba iPhepha leSithuba lasekuseni, endlwini, apho i-miishalkov yabhala into yaza isatyikitywe, kwaye ngokungakhathali kuyishiya etafileni. Utyikityo (!) Yaqatshelwa, yabona ukuba inani lanamhlanje, lenze izigqibo kwaye laqala "igumbi" elinobuhlobo "kwigumbi elipheleleyo" le-juror "kwi-US? Ngubani owaziyo? Kwaye ayithethi mntu ?! " Imeko nje evela kwi-BONINI "i-voron kunye neLilitsay" - ngamazwi anjalo ukuthatha inxaxheba, kwaye bayazi: ukuba kukho nantoni na, ungongeza kwidatha yobuqu. Iya kuba luncedo xa incwadana yemigaqo iya kuthatha isigqibo sokuba ngubani na ukuba athumele uhambo lwaphesheya.
Kodwa uGalya Makhashev wandisindisa kanye. Kwakukho inkampani enendoda, apho yonke into kwisangqa kunye nolwalamano nolunye ulwalamano. Apho, ukuba uyangena-njengakwi-Bermuda Triangle, ukulibaziseka, uya kuphoxeka. Ndabizwa ngokuba yinkampani, kwaye uGalya wathi: "Awuyi apho! Nikita eNikita kunyaka wemikhosi? Ke lindela ke! "
Iimodeli ezindala- (yakwasuv, ezinye) zicocwe, njengakwiifilimu zeSoviet eziMhlophe neMhlophe. Kubonakala ngathi ixesha kunye nabantu kunye nabantu babehleli. (...)
Kwithiyori yaseMarxism, kukho umxholo onjalo njengokukhethiwa: Imveliso yabasebenzi ... Andifuni ukukhwela kwi-fieds emveliso yoqoqosho neyopolitiki okanye kumdla wobomi onokuba ngumdla omkhulu nawuphi na iMarx yanamhlanje okanye i-peels ...
Sele nditshilo, uNikita uhlala wayezama ukufihla ukuba inkosikazi yakhe yindoda. Kodwa nokuba awuthethi malunga nokuphazamiseka kosapho, indima yendoda nganye ngamanye amaxesha idala impixokolo emfazini ngokwayo, ngaphakathi. Kukho umbono wokuzihlukanisa apho ndaqala khona. Emva kwayo yonke loo nto, yintoni, ukugqiba ukuya kwi-lingrie, yima phambi kweqela labantu abakwenziwe kuwe isitayile esitsha sizama, sizama ukufota? Wenza ngenene i-mannequin kwi-mannequin ye-Inanquin, hanger. Ihlala kuphela ngokuhambelana ngokupheleleyo ne-yoga iphazamisa umzimba wakho kwaye icinge ukuba yonke le nto yenzeka "kunye naye", kodwa hayi nawe. Kuyimfuneko ukulibala iintloni, isithintelo, indlela yokuthotywa. Ndikhumbula xa okokuqala xa ndandikufanelekile ukuba ndibekho, ndema zonke iibomvu, ndimanzi, bendinqabile, ndingakhululekanga, ndineentloni. Kwaye le yayiyinkqubo emsulwa engenatyala, apho wonke umntu ucinga malunga nengubo, kwaye ingenguye. Kwaye khawufane ucinge indlela amantombazana aqhubeka ngayo kwimodeli ngoku? Kuyahluka kangako ekukhetheni ihashe lobuvulindlela. Apha sele iqwalaselwe ngokuthe ngqo yonke: amazinyo, isifuba, iinwele, nokuba yonke into indalo. Ukuba nabani na "uvuthuza" - ngokukhawuleza ". Emva koko, uxolo, i-tabun abanye.
Imodeli kufuneka ilungele ukulala ngokupheleleyo: Bhala - uza kusika iinwele ezintle phantsi kwengcambu, ngokuhlwa-kumnyama-kumnyama, ngosuku olulandelayo uza kuthumela iinwele ngePeroza. Ungu-mole "mhlophe mhlophe", ecaleni kwayo yonke imicuba, umyili uza kutsala eyakhe, into ayifunayo kuye. Ukuba yimodeli ngubukhoboka. Ulikhoboka. Kwelinye icala, unokuba yimyuziyam, oncedwa ngulowo wobugcisa. Eyona nto iphambili yokuqonda ukuba yonke imibingelelo iya kwenza i-mance ...
(Iza kuqhubeka.)
Umbhali werekhodi yoncwadi uEnna Dobyryukha.