Dukurikije kimwe mu bitekerezo bizwi, intangiriro ya mbere y'intwari y'intwari yacu yabonetse mugihe cyo gucukura imva nazo. Ariko, abashakashatsi batongana niyi verisiyo, kubera ko kudoda muri ibyo bihe bya kure ntibyashobokaga guterwa no gukora imyenda igoye. Kandi rwose birafatwa nkibintu byinshi, umubare wibintu nikoranabuhanga ryo kudoda. Wemera rero ko mugihe ubucukuzi bwabonetse nka Tuxedo, ariko nanone prototypes nyayo ikwiye gushakisha mugihe atari kure cyane.
Intangiriro ifitanye isano
Ubwa mbere hagaragara igabushwa. Iyi ijambo ry'igifaransa ryavukiye mu kinyejana cya XVII, hamwe n'imyenda, yerekanaga. Bambaye mu Burusiya. Rero, Petero Mperutse mu ntangiriro za Xviii ahannye abantu bose, usibye abahinzi n'abapadiri, bambara neza. Kandi nubwo iyi myenda idakunze ibi, nkabanyamahanga bose ntibakunze muri iyo minsi, ariko byabaye ngombwa. Ntuzarwanya umwami. Mu Bufaransa, ibintu byose byari bitandukanye: Ngaho hafatwa nk'ibintu bihanitse byimyenda, byashobokaga kwambara gusa ku mwami. Uruhushya rufatiye rwashimangiye urwego rwimibereho rwa Velmazby, Akamaro kacyo nubumenyi, kandi kabitunga ku gikari umuntu wa mirongo itanu, ntakindi. Yadoda ikoti "sogokuru" kuva mumyenda ihenze - brocade na veletat, barimbishijwe n'amabuye akungahaye kandi afite amabuye y'agaciro.
Icyakora, hagati mu kinyejana cya Xviii, imbuto zabaye nta shingiro, kandi ahantu h'umwanya wahise ufatavuza - muri iyi myumvire, amagorofa yaciwe, kandi inyuma ya Lolda. Ubwa mbere yari ifishi of ofisiye gusa, nkuko byoroshye cyane kugendera ku mafarashi - Igorofa ndende ntabwo ibangamira kandi ntabwo yitiranyije amaguru. Mu gice cya kabiri cya XIX, abantu basanzwe batangira kuyambara. Kandi ntabwo ari ipantaro, ahubwo ni ubupfu.
Tuxedo yagaragaye mugihe kimwe hamwe na Frak - Mubinyejana bya XIX
Ifoto: PilixAByay.com/ru.
Iyo kuvunika kugera mu Burusiya, imyambaro y'i Burayi yari imaze gushyirwaho imizi. Yahise ahinduka ibintu byinshi, avuza induru kandi atera imyenda, yashimye urubyiruko rwateye imbere. Nibyo, Umusomyi Ekatesina wa Ii, aho byose byabaye, guhanga udushya ntibyemeje. Kandi kugirango dukubite inyungu zibintu byo mumahanga mu rubyiruko, abaramuka basanzwe mumagambo. Ku basore bashize amanga, uku gushinyagurira kumva nabi, kandi bakomeje gutaka imyenda yimyambarire. Ariko ibintu byose byahise birangira: Pawulo nasabye ingoma. Umuntu ushinzwe amategeko akomeye, yahisemo kudahuza n'urubyiruko maze abuza ikintu cyanduye cy'imyenda. Icyakora, yahise agaruka Nikolai ndumwe ry'abayobozi. Yabaye imyenda yubururu bwijimye cyangwa icyatsi kibisi. Abasivili barashobora kwambara frants of andi mabara: Umuhondo, umucanga, ubururu cyangwa sinapi, ariko imiterere yacyo. Kandi, kubera, yahindutse kuva icyo gihe, gahunda yahindutse - ubu ni imyenda kumugoroba na bikomeye. Mu gice cya mbere cyikinyejana cya makumyabiri, amategeko yo kwambara no kudoda. Kuvunika umupira kwari mubwinshi bwimanza umukara, ariko rimwe na rimwe byemerera umweru. Ariko, umurongo wumukara ugomba kuba umweru. Yarangije ishusho ya silinderi.
Ihindukirira aho hantu
Tuxedo yagaragaye mugihe kimwe hamwe na Frak - muri XIX. Bwa mbere, avugwa mu gitabo cy'amabwiriza ya Talor uzwi cyane Henry Pula, we mu 1865 yafashe kudoda igikomangoma ameze neza.
Ariko niba kuvunika byahise biba ikintu cyemewe, noneho tuxedo yari ibanza habaye nko gutoranya imyenda y'urugo. Byagenze bite? Ikigaragara ni uko isura ye yafashije politiki yabakoloni ifitwe ningoma y'Ubwongereza. Icyo gihe ni bwo kuva mu mucyo mushya ugana i Burayi batangiye kugwa ku ruganda ruzwi muri kiriya gihe - itabi. Kubwamahirwe yinjiye mu itabi. Kugirango utarakara abadamu n'umunuko, bafunze mubyumba bitandukanye. Kandi mbere yo gusohoka muri salle, bambara imyenda idasanzwe, kugirango batazane umwotsi. Yatangiye kwitwa Tuxedo uhereye ku ijambo umwotsi - "itabi". Amakoti yicyo gihe yari asa na Battabes ngufi hamwe nubutumwa bwabo bwakozwe buri gihe. Ubwa mbere, barinzwe numwotsi. Icya kabiri, ivu, yaguye kuri Satin Lapels, yazungurutse hasi, abantu baguma mu mucyo w'umwimerere. (Ukoresheje inzira, tuzakora amagambo mato: ubu ikibazo cyo kutanywa itabi kirashobora guterwa nka "Tuxdobu byabujijwe").
Abagabo bateraniye hamwe - iyi ni ubwoko bwa club mu nyungu. Buhoro buhoro, ibishya nkibi byatangiye kwambara mubyumba byo kunywa itabi gusa, ariko no ahandi abanyamankazi bahuye na: ku nama za gicuti. Ariko, tuxedo yari akiri munsi yo kuvunika. Ubwa mbere, societe yo hejuru yumve ntabwo yamushakaga kuri we, iyashyire ku byakirwa ntibyatemerwa gusa. Ariko igihe kiragenda, abanyacyubahiro barahindutse kugirango bambare ifunguro ritari mu mvururu rikomeye, ariko mumyambarire yoroshye. Iyi metamophose yabaye kumpera ya XIX ikinyejana, mugihe Uburayi bwashishikajwe nibintu byose byari bifitanye isano niburasirazuba. Kuri ibi shyiramo umusizi wicyongereza George Byron, wagenze muri Turukiya yose. Bitandukanye no kutoroherwa, impungenge, Tuxedo yari nziza bityo rero rero yahise ihinduka imyambarire yo kubura.
Marlene Imptrich muri Tuxedo na Cylinder
Ifoto: Ikadiri kuva muri firime "Maroc"
Muri Amerika, yamenyekanye kare gato ugereranije no mu Bwongereza. Mu 1886, icyamamare dandy n'itabi magnate Griswold Loriyard yagaragaje ku mugaragaro mu Tuxedo Park gihugu kipe, hafi New York, ku mugoroba ikoti na lapels hariri, ariko nta phrato fald. Byihuse cyane, intore zabanyamerika yose zabaye igitekerezo muri nka. Kuva icyo gihe, Abanyamerika babyita Tuxedo.
Mu kinyejana cya 20, abadamu bafashe intwari. Marlene Dietrich yagaragaye muri firime "Maroc" muri Tuxedo na Cylinder, kandi byari intangiriro gusa. IV Saint Laurent yahise afata uru rubanza. Mu 1962, uwashushanyije uzwi cyane yafunguye ikirango cye kandi yerekana icyegeranyo kikaba cyarahinduye iteka. Yambaye abakobwa mu ipantaro n'amakoti. Ibyakozwe mbere kwambara imyenda y'abagabo, guhera ubu, byabaye impamyabukire nyamukuru y'abagore b'imyenda y'abagore. Mu mpera za mirongo itandatu, Tuxedo yahindutse ikintu cyihariye imyambarire ya nimugoroba yumugore ntabwo ikomeye kuri par hamwe na char chane Chanel.
Kumena imipaka
Imyaka ijana na mirongo itanu, ikoti yabagabo ryahindutse gato. Ariko uyu munsi hari urutonde rwashyizweho rwibisabwa bigomba gucwa byimazeyo. Ipantaro ikorerwa nta bushobozi bwo kwambara umukandara, uhiganywa ku mabara yijimye. Igicucu cyoroheje cya Tuxedo - ibintu bidasanzwe, byitoza mugihe gishyushye no mubukwe. Ibara ry'umukara ni rusange kuri iyi myambarire. Kuva mumitako, umugabo ushireho iyi jati arashobora kugura gusa. Isaha - gusa umufuka. Ibikoresho byumudozi byayo ni ubwoya. Hamwe na we yashyize umukandara cyangwa ikoti ry'umukara. Isoni rigomba gukorwa mumyenda, ikoreshwa muri lapels. Ishati yubudodo cyangwa ipamba, gake kuva silk. Ikirangantego cyumuheto gikozwe mu guhuza ubwoya na silk ... Muri rusange, tekereza iyi mvugo James Bonda - Gusaba Gusaba Bongereza.
Kuki ukeneye aya mategeko yose? Birumvikana ko kubavuna! Noneho ubu ntabwo aribarirwa kwambara tuxedo hamwe na jeans, bigabanya urugero rwa pathos. Cyangwa humura rwose ikoti rikomeye hamwe na Bales, kuko ikunda gukora Robert Downey Jr., Luka Wilson n'abandi bakinnyi benshi. Ibisubizo byamabara nabyo biratandukanye cyane. By the way, lapels ntishobora kuba ubudodo cyangwa satin, ariko, nk'urugero, uruhu, velvet, twahanaguyeho rhinestones cyangwa sequine. Muri verisiyo yanyuma, inyenyeri na r'n'b bakunze.
Kandi ntiwumve, hamwe numucyo wumucyo wa Iva Saint-Lauren, iyi koko irashobora kwambara abantu gusa. Muburyo bwa none, gutandukanya umubiri wumugore nimyambaro yabagabo biramenyerewe cyane. Dukurikije ibishushanyo byinshi, ibintu byinshi bya Wardrobe birashobora gutanga igikundiro kidasanzwe numubonano mpuzabitsina. Tuxedo irashobora kugaragara kenshi mu byegeranyo yinzu yibirometero nka Stella McCartney, Isabel Manthan cyangwa Ralph Lauren.
Moderi y'abagore iratandukanye cyane n'umugabo. Bari muburyo butandukanye, bafite silhouette itandukanye kandi ntibagarukira gusa ku mategeko akomeye. Ariko, ibintu bigaragara bya Tuxedo nuburyo bwiza bwacyo, burimo kwambara iyi myambarire haba mubihe bikomeye kandi nkuburyo bwo gusohoka muburyo budasanzwe. Bimwe na bimwe byo gutandukanya iyi myambaro bisa nabi cyane, bimwe nabyo, ariko uko byagenda kose mugomba kumva ko TUXDEDO ariho buri gihe ibyabaye, kandi akenshi ushobora kwambara imyambarire.
Muyandi magambo, gura ikoti ryiza hamwe nipantaro ya Trendy - ni kimwe cya kabiri. Ugomba guhitamo uburyo bwo kwambara hamwe nibyo ugomba guhuza. Imana ishimwe, abagore barenga ku mategeko byoroshye nkabagabo. Reka tuyikoreshe. Kurugero, gusimbuza ipantaro gakomeye ku ngabo zigufi: Muri iyi shusho urashobora kujya mu nama neza no mu nama n'abakobwa bakobwa. Ntiwibagirwe gusa inkweto zitunganijwe cyane hamwe nibikoresho bifite iminyururu yoroheje na bracelets. Cyangwa witondere uburyo bwimibonano mpuzabitsina cyane - ikoti, ikwiranye hejuru yimyambarire. Ishusho nkiyi izakurura ibyiza kuri wewe. Kandi cyane cyane imigezi yubutwari irashobora kuyijugunya kandi na gato umubiri wambaye ubusa - ishimangira imiterere. Tuxedo ku biro? Nibyo, ariko niba turimo kuvuga imvange zidasanzwe zintwari yibikoresho byacu hamwe nikoti risanzwe, nta gace gasanzwe kangura interuro zizwi cyane kubyerekeye ubukangurambaga "gukora nk'ibiruhuko."
Incamake, reka tuvuge ko, kugaragariza umwaka nigice cyashize, TUXDEO yahise afata umwanya urambye ku kirere cyerukije. Noneho abagabo n'abagore bombi barabisanga kumurongo utukura cyangwa ibibazo bya tereviziyo kandi bikambarwa cyane mubuzima bwa buri munsi.