Imyambarire irashobora kwitwa innshinga zigendanwa kandi zihindagurika zubuhanzi: Amabwiriza yayo ahinduka buri myaka icumi (niba atari birenze). Ariko gucika intege cyane kandi bitunguranye mumateka yimyambarire yimyambarire Reba imyaka icumi ya mirongo itandatu. Ejo wambaraga imyambarire ya A-sinine ya A-silhouette, kandi uyumunsi wambaye ushize amanga mumyambarire ya trapezodal-mini amabara ". Intara yimyambarire, iganisha ku makimbirane nyayo y'abasaza ndetse n'abakiri bato, yaduhaye abashushanya abahanga mu kinyejana.
Muri iyi si yose ninzisi kandi usubirwamo. Ibi bitekerezo bya filozofiya muburyo isi itondeka, birashoboka kwimura inganda zimyambarire. Byasa nkaho ibihe bishya, byuzuye imyaka icumi, aho ikiremwamuntu cyahuye na robo n'umwanya, ntazabona bisa na kahise. Kandi ariko uyumunsi, turashobora kuvuga twizeye ko swing mirongo itandatu, idasanzwe kandi idasanzwe, yahumetswe nimikino yimyambarire yumugore, akoresheje ibikoresho byimyambarire yumugore, kandi muri rusange Ibi bisekuru byombi, byagabanijwemo hafi igice cyikinyejana, bisa nkaho byegeranye mukirere no mu mwuka.
Umwanya gusa!
Nubwo bimeze bityo, hamwe nibishoboka byose, itandukaniro rigaragara kumaso. Impinduka societe yahuye mugitangiriro cya mirongo itangira ihindukirira imyumvire yabantu. Mbere ya byose, kwigarurira umwanya mubice byose byibikorwa byacu byari ingaruka zikomeye mubice byose byibikorwa byacu. Iyo bimaze kugaragara ko isazi ridashira ryisi ishobora kuneshwa, ibitekerezo byabahanga, abayobozi kandi, mubisanzwe, abashushanya imyambarire bakomokaga ku mbaraga zitigeze zibaho. Inzozi z'imico idasanzwe yatumye habaho Fututurism zo muri Futurism: mu nganda za firime zatumye hagaragara Arthaus, kandi Podiumu ifata nk'ibiti bidasanzwe, rimwe na rimwe ntibisa na sites y'abagore. Ibitugu binini, amakoperamutungo manini, inkweto-inkweto, ntabwo yavuye mu ruhu rwa Flax, ipamba, ubudodo cyangwa muri vikusi, vinyl, ndetse n'ingingo za foille, zigaragara mu magambo. Imiterere nshya yirukanwe na Paco Raban na Elsa Sitwazarelli, Christobal BalenGa yakoresheje cyane ibikoresho bishya, bikagabanya ibyakunzwe cyane mubakiri bato. Pierre Carrin yerekanye icyegeranyo cya "Igihe cya Cosmos". Muri make, synthetics yatsinze ingufu za imyambarire, aho umuntu umwe yatangiraga gusenya inyuguti nuburyo bwo kurya bya kera. Ibuka amashusho yabanyarwandakazi batunganye mu myambarire nziza kandi ibeshya? Noneho abo bagore bo murugo barababaye cyane (kandi akenshi barababara cyane) igice cya sisitemu: Aho kugira ngo witeze amajipo yicaye ku bikoresho byabujijwe ko byasabwe kuba mu myambaro-bathrobes hamwe n'ibicapo binjira mu basazi. Byongeye kandi, Puritani kandi nziza cyane ya Midi yatakaje vuba umwanya, itanga inzira ya mini itinyutse. Uyu munsi tuzi neza abakwiriye gukurikira.
Umwanditsi w'ijipo yimibonano mpuzabitsina, Hem Lojo yakinguye kandi akaba igice kinini cyibitara, yari umukoresha wa Mariene, umunyamadini wa London numugore uhakana, agabanya ibitekerezo byimigabane yimibonano mpuzabitsina kandi bikaba byaranze imbaraga za feminism. Niwe wavuze interuro yo gutekera: "Uburyohe bwiza ni urupfu, ubugome - ubuzima!" Mini, natangiye gutanga no kwigana no kwimyambarire ya Andre Kurrzha, none abakobwa bamaze kuba banyuze mu mihanda mibi, na nyina, abagore bo mu rugo "barafashwe.
Muri rusange, amakimbirane ya kera ya ba se n'abana, afite umwanya muri buri gisekuru, yarushijeho gusobanura muri mirongo itandatu. Babyeyi, bize mumigenzo yubudakemwa no kwifata, ntibashoboraga kwemera ko imibonano mpuzabitsina yamenetse mubuzima bwabana babo - kandi ntabwo tumeze nkibintu bisanzwe, ahubwo ntidushobora kwerekana nkana. Igihome cya nyuma cyigitsina gore cyimyaka ishaje ni Jacqueline Kennedy. Yahujije imikoreshereze yimikoreshereze yimyanda, ariko ikoreshwa risanzwe na geometric ya geometric igezweho, ibinini-byitsinda ryahindutse kubinini "nibinini". Ariko Yoo, Jackie yagize ingaruka ku buryo bukabije ubwenge bw'abakiri bato - nyuma y'ubwicanyi bw'uwo bashakanye, Perezida Kennedy, yahagaritse uruhare rugaragara mu ruhame akiri umugani Leslie hornbi, azwi ku isi nk'atwikiriye.
Kunanuka nk'ibyatsi, hamwe na gato kuri kiriya gihe hamwe n'imisatsi, yahinduye kwerekana abashushanya kubyo umuntu utunganye agomba kuba. Twiggy yari isa numusazi, udakoze kugeza impimbano yurubyiruko rugufi: ibicurane bigufi, ibitugu bitoroshye, mu maso hanini, ahinduka igitekerezo cy'amaso mashya ... Yatanze intangiriro ya Icyifuzo cyiza rwose kubakobwa kurwana "hanze" gupima. Kuri Traviggi yarebye neza imyenda-trapezoids, abitwa babadoll-imyambarire: gucika intege, bihwanye na sundose, kurema ishusho ya lolita igezweho. Yakoze kandi amazi azwi afite irembo ryinshi, imyenda ya laconic hamwe na bitatu bya kane irambaraye kandi ikambara.
Ikindi gishushanyo kimwe cyuburyo bwa mirongo itandatu cyatangiye, nkuko bavuga uyumunsi, indorerwamo yisi, muse yumugani andy warhol, ubwiza bwa Edie Sedgevik. Yasaga nka twiggy nka mushiki wa kavukire, ariko aho kuba icyitegererezo cyumwuga yahisemo byinshi mubirori bizwi. Sedgevik yemeye ibyo bita go-go-inkweto - inkweto zakozwe byumwihariko. Byorohewe, muburyo buteye ubwoba, bahujwe neza na mini-imyenda, ipantaro ya capri hamwe na jeans uruhu kandi yemerewe kubona amahirwe nyirayo ijoro ryose.
Ariko ntabwo bose bakurura ishusho yumukobwa wa Nymphite, hafi ubuzima bwingenzi. Mu bitegererezo, amarushanwa ya Twiggy yari Umudage Menneckle, utarimurikira muri podiyumu gusa, yitesheje agaciro indogobe n'uburakari budasanzwe, ariko na we yakinnye muri filime yo mu mico "ifoto" ya Maliche Tenioni. Hanyuma yari ahangayikishijwe n'umwuga we utera imbere na Elizabeti Taylor. Ku bakinnyi b'imyaka mirongo itatu, umukinnyi w'imyaka mirongo itatu yamaze kwambara urwego rw'umwamikazi, Hollywood, ashakanye n'inshuro ya kane kandi ashishikarizwa abashushanya, ariko uburyo nk'ubwo. Ibitunguru rusange muri ingwe, birumvikana kandi, birumvikana ko kwisiga bisanzwe hamwe nimyambi kuva ishusho "Cleopatra" yakoze igishushanyo cya TAYLOC.
Mubisanzwe, ntibishoboka kuzenguruka ibitekerezo no kwiyumvisha no guhuza ibitsina byinyenyeri yubufaransa bwamatafari yigifaransa, ibaye ikimenyetso cyimibonano mpuzabitsina nyacyo. Ntabwo yari ameze n'umwe mu bakinnyi ba Bignema bakomeye - i Bardo, yahujwe no gushimira cyane urubyiruko, rukuze rwinshi kandi rutangaje. Bitandukanye n'intwari ze, Brigit yari ifite isoni cyane, bahangayikishijwe n'imiterere ye, ariko icyarimwe yishimira cyane abo mudahuje igitsina. Umukinnyi wahoze yambaraga blouse yoroheje hamwe na vests, inkweto zigufi, inkweto, uburangare bahuriye umusatsi muremure mu kibero kinini cyangwa ngo babe babett. Uku gushiramo abantu benshi kandi biracyasengaga abagore benshi. Ariko, imisatsi igomba kuvugwa ukwe.
Hejuru kandi hejuru
Impinduramatwara yimibonano mpuzabitsina, tumaze kuvuga, ntabwo yagize ingaruka muburyo imyambarire isanzwe yatangiye kugaragara (ibuka imyambaro ya Trouse imisatsi. Mubihe byashize, hatoroye urusaku rwa curl yagiye muri curl, Hollywood umusatsi urekuye ntiwasuzumye amarushanwa hamwe na "mwiza", kugirango ushyireho gusa kugura cyane iduka, kugoreka muburyo budahwitse ipfundo no kurekura imirongo ibiri yo gukina. Ariko ndetse yarubaga ibiremwa bya Stylist Stal Sassun. Canonical umusatsi wiggy, mia ihene n'izindi nyenyeri - amaboko ye. Uburyo bwe bwo gutondeka bwatavuguruye: oya "ibyari bya kera" n "imitiba ishaje", nk'abasore bo mu mitego yo kwitwa icyo gihe, geometrie nshya gusa, gusa. "Imisatsi y'imyanya ya chanel" yari yitwaga ku nkombe z'imihindo ya Sassun, igihe kirekire cyakoranye na Marie Kuant. Gukorana n'Umuremyi w'amajipo ya Mini, yihanangirije ko azayoborwa n'ihame rye - guca ibintu bitari ngombwa. Podiyumu rero yasohotse moderi kuva inyamanswa ityaye ku bishyimbo bigufi no gukinira pigiseli. Umusatsi uzwi cyane wateje filozofiya yose yo gukora umusatsi, wahimbwe no gukaraba interuro-n-kugenda (mubyukuri "byogejwe kandi bigenda"). Yorohereza cyane abadamu bitayeho: Ntibakeneye toni zinyuranye, cyangwa ubufasha bwa styliste, gusa shampoo no mu kimamara. Umusatsi wa Sassin wasaga nkintanga.
Geometrike Kare, wahimbaze Maestro, yahujwe neza nurugendo rusanzwe - abashushanya bagiye gusara mumirongo, inyabutatu, ovals ninziga. Kuzimya ibishushanyo mbonera, geometrie ishimishije yashushanyije imyenda yose, igitsina gore numugabo. Emilio Puchchi cyane cyane yashoboye kwiganwa.
CHICH idasanzwe yafatwaga nko kwambara ikibanza kuva Sassun, inkweto ndende n'imyambarire irashakira, idoda, nk'urugero, kuva i Vinyl. Duhereye ku bintu byiza, ipantaro yari nziza rwose (hafi y'impera za mirongo itandatu zatangiye kwinjiza manera), na ikote. Ishusho yararangiye ifite imyambi yumukara isobanutse nijisho ryirabura. Nibwo ingaruka za "Swerse Paws" zatangiye mu rugendo, mugihe umuhanzi wimiti ahanini, urwego rwo hejuru rwumuhango washyizeho mascara yuzuye. Kandi nta lipstick! Nkuburyo bwa nyuma, bwemerewe kwerekana iminwa hamwe nijwi ryoroheje kugirango batarangaza ibitekerezo bivuye mumaso yegeranye.
Amajwi yumuziki
Filime, ibikomangoma n'inganda z'umuziki nabyo byagaragaje uko ibisekuruza bya swing. Abayobozi bashimishijwe na Arhaus, Ubufaransa bwerekanye isi "umuraba mushya", na Andy Warhol na Roy Liechtenstein bakoze ibihangano bya pop hamwe n'ubuhanzi bugezweho. Muri rusange, urumuri, rutandukanye, amashusho yakuwe mubitabo bisekeje kandi amenyera ubuzima nyabwo, - ni ukuvuga ishusho yukuri yigihe. Ibara ryamabara ryabaye inyongera nyamukuru kuri buri kintu, ndetse nigishusho cyingenzi cyane, kandi abagore basanze nintwari yumusanga.
Mu isi ya muzika, hagati aho, imigendekere y'urutare irakura kandi ikanguka imbaraga. Abaririmbyi nyamukuru ba Epoch barimo kuzunguza amabuye hamwe numuyobozi wa charmaristic Lick Jagger. Umuntu wese utatindiganyijega kujya mu mashati mu mashaza manini, uruhu rufunganye n'inkweto nini za vinyl! Fata imyanya yabo na beatles, batangira kumanuka mu mpinga y'icyubahiro Jimmy Hendrix kandi ikipe yijimye hamwe nitsinda rye hamwe nitsinda rye, batsinze abafana ba Bob Dylan. Imbaraga za Nanncy Sinatra ziba jazz nziza. Urutare rwihuta rwihuta mubyiciro bya kera, hanyuma biha buhoro buhoro ikiganza cya Shampiyona kumatsinda ya psychelic. Umutuku Floyd ntatangiye umwuga wabo hagati yijimye, yayoboye Zeppelin na Purple yijimye yegereye iherezo ryayo, ariko bazatsinda ibyamamare byisi, ariko bazatsinda ibyamamare kwisi hamwe ningabo zabafana nyuma gato. Imirongo irindwi itangira.
Ibihe byo kwagura ikirere, kwangwa nintangarugero zishaje, guhindura ibipimo byubwiza bwumugore - igisekuru cyabakuze bayobowe nabashinzwe imibonano mpuzabitsina hamwe no kwibuka abashinzwe imyambarire kandi baracyabatera imbaraga ku busa. Mark Jacobs hafi buri mwaka yemeye gukundana n '"abarimu" ba Pierre Carda na Iva Saint-Laurean, Prada na Feda hamwe no gutsimbarara bifatika tutwadukorera igice cy'ikinyejana gishize. Louis Vuitton Igihembwe gikora silhouettes, na "Escrac Eracth" pripts, kimwe na Balenciaga na Moschino.
Imirongo isobanutse, abstract geometrie, ibikoresho bidasanzwe byinjiye mu mahugurwa ya couture kandi ntibizabireka. Ibyo kuvuga kuri mini na bote, bitabayemo nta mukobwa wa kijyambere udahagarariye imyenda yawe! Turashimira imirasire ya mirongo itandatu, turashobora kongera gusubira ku bihe bihebuje, iyo umuntu yerekanye ko birashobora gutsinda umwanya wo ku isi gusa, ahubwo no mu mwanya wo gusangira. Hano turagiye?