Both in the world of clothing and shoes and in the world of cosmetics there is a certain fashion. Science is developing, new innovative ingredients appear. Now in Europe, a real boom of natural cosmetics, and in Russia (on marketing research of different companies) it will come
In 2015. However, the specialists of the Russian cosmetic brand "Bark", based on the traditions of domestic cosmetology, in their developments initially focused on the natural properties of plants and oils.
Specialist: Nadezhda Nazarova, General Director of LLC "VIOLENT", Official
Distributor of the trademark "Bark": "Since the foundation in 1997, the brand" Cora "we tried to be closer to nature, use the natural, natural properties of natural components, while in the USA and Europe, all cosmetics were solid" chemistry ", only Five years ago they began to turn to natural means. "
In the collection of equipment for hair care of the brand "Cora" there is a line for painted hair (such hair is damaged, the product task is to restore the hair and ensure the preservation of the color as longer), masks and shampoos for fatty and dry hair. The most relevant and in demand is the series to strengthen and hair growth. Before the cosmetic line enters the development of the laboratory, and then on the regiment to the consumer, there is a serious analytical work. "We drew attention to therapeutic properties of the sludge mud of our lakes.
We were pushed by the development of Israeli cosmetics of the Dead Sea - Guam, Thalgo. But our country is also rich in natural resources, we began to study the information and learned that therapeutic mud of the lake Tambukan (Caucasus, near Pyatigorsky) possess the same properties for mineralization as the dirt of the Dead Sea, while they are much less than salt in them, so
They do not cause such strong irritation, "Nadezhda Nazarova says. - In this lake sulfide, sulfur dirt. They have a very sharp smell, we had to make a lot of effort to disguise it. After all, any consumer first affects the aroma of a cosmetics. We were able to eliminate the natural smell of mud with essential oils, so this is another plus of our developments. "
Researchers of the Laboratory "Cora" studied the mineral composition of Tambukan mud and found out: the natural properties of the mud are such that they allow you to solve problems related
With increased fatty scalp and hair, and can also eliminate dandruff. Based on Tambukan mud, the Kora Lab specialists created cream balm mud for oily scalp and damaged hair. In the course of studying the properties of Tambucan mud, the laboratory developers paid attention to other medicinal dirt - sapropel. They are less mineralized, but are very rich in organic and contain humic acids that are natural regulators and affect hair growth. Sapropel mud comes from Belarus (Lake Apobl). It is the Suplobile dirt according to their mineral and organic composition that were the most useful and saturated. These dirt are more suitable for solving problems associated with dry skin.
As the main component, humic acids also began to use in a tonic activator to strengthen and hair growth (the effect of acids is enhanced by the vitamins of the group B, PR and thirteen herbs extracts), in shampoos and in cream mask to strengthen and hair growth (in it There are two types of healing mud - black sapropeli with humic acids and sulfide tambian). The company has patents for these three products in the series for hair care.
Get rid of water and smells
Specialists of the Laboratory "Cora", creating means on the basis of mud, found that in the emulsion basis, inject genuine dirt is not easy. "For several years we beat to create such an emulsion that would not cause rejection from consumers because of the smell (because dirt have a very sharp, unpleasant smell), bundles so that it is homogeneous, says Nadezhda Nazarov. "At the same time it was necessary to take into account that the Tambukan dirt contains algae, lumps can come across the finished mask, but it is not bad, but even useful and natural."
Are preservatives harmful to?
Any means has a certain expiration date, and it depends not least of the presence of preservatives. "We were selected preservatives, it was not going anywhere. I would like to say a few words in defense of Parabenov. Now this preservative is subject to unreasonable persecution, and so far it is not found to him, "Nadezhda Nazarova notes. - parabens have a wide antibacterial spectrum of action. About the harmfulness of parabens and, in particular, about their influence on the possibility of developing cancer, referring to American researchers, but it does not have a reasonable documentary confirmation. In those quantities in which parabens are contained in cosmetics, they are safe, because there are tenths of the percentage per kilogram of cream. Please note that dear brands are the shelf life of three to five years, which indicates the presence of a large number of preservatives in the means. Otherwise, cosmetics simply could not be stored. " The funds of the brand "Cora" have a shelf life of two years, as their compositions are close to natural and cannot be stored longer. To reduce the number of preservatives, the Kora laboratory specialists use essential oils that have antibacterial properties and additionally can serve the product.
After laboratory experiments conducted, the finished means is placed in a thermostat for storage at 35-40 degrees. The laboratory staff periodically follows what is happening with the composition. For half a year, storage in the thermostat corresponds to two years of storage of the means at normal temperature. The composition may be fascinated, water or oil can perform, the smell change - then the laboratory specialists correct errors, adjust the recipe. In the meantime, documents are issued on new products.
Exams for creams and shampoos
The Laboratory "Bark", like any manufacturer, checks the compliance of GOS products according to different indicators: foam and soaps (foam number) in shampoos, viscosity, stability in creams, pH indicator. Some funds take a kind of exam, or rather clinical trials. Cream-mask to strengthen and hair growth and shampoo strengthening against hair loss passed tests in the center of voluntary certification of the Institute of Beauty. Twenty volunteers two months have experienced a tool. High positive results were obtained. "We check the action of funds in the laboratory and also experiencing them on yourself. I am always trying to try new tools, I look at how one or another drug works, which you need to improve, change, "explains Nadezhda Nazarov. Recently, two more means - dandruff shampoo and fat hair shampoo - clinical trials in the medical center of cosmetology correction and received good reviews.
In 2012, cosmetics laboratory "Cora" participated in the first international competition BASF Care Creations Awards, conducted by the German producer of surfactants by BASF. In the nomination "The best texture of the foaming agent", shampoo for dry and brittle hair took second place.
Cook cream barrel is not easier than Chan borscht
All checks are completed, all certificates were received - the official transfer of a new fund from the laboratory to industrial production occurs. In the laboratory, chemist specialists worked on the compositions, and technologists will work with them. But here everything happens not enough. "Any hostess knows: a small saucepan of borscht make it easy to cook, and to cook a huge Chan borschk - difficult, he may not work out," Nadezhda Nazarova notes. - Therefore, in production, 3 kg of new cream, shampoo or mask is first made, then 20 kg ... and each time the recipe is specified. If everything is successful, you can even send a small batch for sale. If unsuccessful - adjust the recipe and prepare a new tool. " After several intermediate vans and recipe adjustments, production is put on the main rails, tons of products are made. The whole process of manufacturing new products (from development to industrial release) takes no less than half a year - and only after this time the new cosmetics appears on the counters, entering the consumer's court.