Keep your face: dispel the myths about collagen

Anonim

You can easily be confused, calling about the main component of the "Moldable" products. Reasons are understandable: we are confused in its views and types, mix in a bunch of concepts, we are lost, without understanding whether it is about cosmetic ingredient or skin protein. For example, I still remember the popular advertisement that appeared at the dawn of two thousands: the manufacturer promised to introduce collagen molecules directly to the dermis, thereby smoothing and transforming the face. Of course, no introduction, in fact, did not occur, but the thought was firmly fixed in the mind: Collagen is the same "magic pill", which is able to revive lost youth. With which disappointment had to face those who were in pursuit of smooth, elastic skin spent considerable money for non-working means. Does this mean that Collagen is the next marketing dummy? It's time to figure out the question.

The basis of everything

Why do we call collagen great? Because without him there would be no us with you. This protein is the basis of the connective tissue of the body, which, in turn, plays a structure-forming role in all (!) Systems of the human body. It constitutes the database of muscles and fascia, it is in the bones and vessels, internal organs, hair and nails. Naturally, there is a lot of it and directly in the skin, or rather, at its basis, that is, the derma.

But even here collagen is not the same: from more than twenty types there are first and third. The first type plays the most important role: it is durable and elastic, quickly returns to "shape" after stretching. The third type is present mainly in the dermis of children and very young people, he is responsible for healing the wound. It is precisely because, by the way, it is impossible to damage the skin mechanically once again (constantly touching acne and picking face): if the collagen generation of the third type is delayed, visible scars and scars appear.

If the collagen generation of the third type is dragged, visible scars and scars appear

If the collagen generation of the third type is dragged, visible scars and scars appear

Photo: pexels.com.

So, located in the dermis, collagen resembles a mattress springs that support the turgor and tone. Even those of us who do not know at all in anatomy and dermatology, will be able to conclude: without collagen compounds, the skin saves - as a mattress, deprived of reliable tight spirals.

Good news is that our body independently produces the necessary molecules. But there is also bad news: the synthesis of collagen slows down to about twenty-five years. Fibroblasts who produce this youth protein are becoming increasingly lazy. Closer to thirty years we notice that in order to recover after a sleepless night or stress, we need significantly more time and effort than ten years ago. By forty loss of collagen directly affects the clarity of the facial oval. The performance of fibroblasts reaches its minimum stamps. The connection is direct: the less in the estrogen's female organism, the worse the collagen is synthesized. Moreover, all the same age balance on the synthesis and the destruction of collagen shifts towards the latter. In general, the destruction of molecules is the process of natural and necessary, so the epidermis of the skin is constantly updated. But when, conventionally speaking, the production rose, the deficit is noticeable - sagging, wrinkles, chains and leather flabs.

Stellic diet

And here, it would seem, a turn of cosmetic products with collagen comes. If in our body of this protein more than twenty types, then everything is easier: we are familiar with animals and marine collagen, native, soluble and hydrolyzed. Components like "synthetic" or "vegetable" collagen - the manufacturer's tricks: there is no protein in the composition of plants, even closely resembling the functions of collagen, but under the "synthetic" dermatologists and cosmetologists understand any collagen that is not synthesized by the organism.

Collagen animal is considered the most affordable and common, that is, a cattle obtained from cartilage tissue. Its molecules are large, not dissolved neither fats or water, it means not able to overcome the horny layer of the skin.

Collagen molecule is huge. And she has hygroscopicity and knows how to attract water as a hyaluronic acid molecule

Collagen molecule is huge. And she has hygroscopicity and knows how to attract water as a hyaluronic acid molecule

Photo: pexels.com.

However, it can not do this and more expensive and rare marine collagen, obtained from the skin of some fish. Despite the fact that its components are much less than that of the animal "fellow", they are still unable to pass through a dense keratin series of epidermis.

And marine, and animal protein can be divided into three subtypes. Native collagen - the one that "produces" fibroblasts, but, it means that it is still a huge molecule and is not able to penetrate anywhere. The soluble is the so-called misunderstanding collagen: the molecules of it is much less than the native and it is capable of penetrating the dermis. It would seem, cheers, victory! But it was not here: the soluble protein cannot perform all functions of the present - it is not embedded in that very mattress grid and does not support the skin. But perfectly moisturizes it.

Finally, hydrolyzed collagen. It can be compared with the machine that disassembled into parts. All items are, but separately - and it means that the car does not go. Separate amino acids and peptides penetrate into the middle layer of the skin, but again do not perform the functions of full collagen.

The harsh reality is such: exogenous, that is, the resulting from the outside, the collagen is not able to integrate into the protein "grid" in the dermis and - to replace the destroyed own protein. There are injections, the purpose of which was the direct "delivery" of collagen in the middle layer, but also these manipulations were not popular. Yes, the skin became more touched and fresh, but only due to active humidification, and not because cosmetologists managed to restore the "springs" of our "mattress". Unfortunately, scientists could not find how to influence the "Collagen Factory" - fibroblasts: None of the ways for their stimulation, with which evidence-based science, did not work.

So why do this ingredient add in cosmetics? First, as we have already spoken, collagen molecule is enormous. And she has hygroscopicity and can attract water as a hyaluronic acid molecule. The output suggests itself: the greater the "attractive" molecule, the greater the water around it will be collected. Cosmetic collagen creates a breathable film on the surface of the skin, which protects and prevents the loss of moisture, truly softens the epidermis. He knows how to improve the activity of other components. For example, oils work much more efficiently if they are collagen in their partners.

Known and love this protein with trichologists and stylists in the hair. Tight and large collagen molecules create the effect of gluing the split tips, protect the cuticle and give a beautiful healthy shine. Among other things, collagen is used in surgery as a wound healing component. Its regenerating properties uses the beauty industry.

So, we found out that cosmetic collagen does not affect the synthesis of collagen's own. What does it affect? Excellent courses of meduine peels (that is, those who work in the dermis), and then, for example, laser stimulation of fibroblasts.

Ultraviolet affects collagen decomposition processes, while slowing down its synthesis

Ultraviolet affects collagen decomposition processes, while slowing down its synthesis

Photo: pexels.com.

Thing in oneself

What about the reception of collagen inside? Arranged disputes around the powder, jelly, liquid and capsuled dietary dietary bars. Someone insists: delivering the body of the protein in this way, you can slow the aging processes and support the skin. But all the same, most endocrinologists are confident that there is no need for supporting therapy. Of serious research on the effect of the influence of food collagen on the condition of the body was not carried out, and the full diet covers all possible deficiencies.

But even if your doctor appointed you taking additives, remember that collagen is incompatible with sugar: for a while you drink this protein, sweet from the diet should be excluded completely.

However, not only sugar is the enemy of collagen. Ultraviolet affects collagen decomposition processes, while slowing down its synthesis, that is, actually simulating the skin aging situation. Stress also makes fibroblasts lazy and sleepy, as well as smoking. In addition to direct destruction of collagen and elastin nicotine affects the clearance of vessels and impairs microcirculation in the dermis.

Sleepless nights and scarce diet, bad habits and disregard for daily care - this is not corrected using even the most powerful cream with the most efficient component. What does it mean? As always: the path to a healthy skin is the path of a conscious person who carefully applies not only to what he stands on his shelves in the bathroom, but also to its nutrition and lifestyle.

Read more