The coming frosts are a wonderful reason to warm and add a couple of accessories to the wardrobe that your image will be converted. What could it be? Scarves familiar to all of us or knitted sinds? Leather gloves or cozy mittens? You can choose everything immediately by giving preference to the coupling, which is again - after a few centuries! - It turned out to be at the peak of fashionable Olympus.
In contrast to many accessories that appeared on the light due to the smelter and the mind of commoners, the coupling is an invention exclusively aristocratic. Once upon a time, in the XIV century, the noble citizens of Europe wore clothes with long sleeves, in which in cold times hid their raised hands. In Italy, Tjason was called Zibellini, which literally means "Sable". Animal skins, decorated with gold, pearls and precious stones, wore hands on a bend or on a belt. It was a truly status thing, despite the legend that these gorgeous sleeves were contemptuously called "Blocholovka".
Pouch with a secret
Directly couplings - such as we used to see them - appeared in Florence. The ladies wore miniature "bags" from the swan fluff on a long braid, saving their fingers from the winds, walking along the palazzo of the stone. From the very beginning, the coupling was made by fur inside. Well, to show all your prosperity and wealth, the ladies chose luxurious fabrics for decoration, decorated with a fine embroidery and precious fittings.
By the way, the cousin of the famous painter Titian, Cesar Headlio, followed the tastes of women who choose this accessory. In one of his historical notes, he noted: "In winter, they carry clutches from good fur - they are chosen by silk, velvet or other matter." The first models were replaced by women ladies' handbags in which the trepal aristocrats kept various trinkets, wallets and even transferred their hand dogs!
Recall: medieval Europe was a place far from perfect. The garbage poured out of the windows right to the streets, the lack of sewage and strange ideas about hygiene were felt. Often, the scented coupling saved the noses of the ladies, which, when approaching the unpleasant smell, was hiding her face into fragrant fur. So the fashion for the coupling took even monarchs: the royal parties in urgency introduced a functional fur bag into their wardrobe. There is a legend, according to which a kind of Huguenote presented the Queen of England Elizabeth I richly decorated with a clutch, not swaying it. "I do not know your preferences!" - justified the unlucky fan.
Cavalier choice
Men also could not pass by the accessory, which was so helped by the ladies, and soon many prominent gentlemen, Signora and Monsieur acquired their own coupling. Some, however, went on. Thus, the King of France Heinrich III was repeatedly seen in the wearing female dresses, the pretty details of the ladder wardrobe and even cosmetics. Andre Bloom in his book "Last Valua" described the feasible monarch: "He loved spirits, cosmetics, earrings, velvet and satin couplings, confused by fur, - in fact, the whole arsenal of the methods that only women used to use." Actually, Henry's couplings turned out to be a whole collection that hit the imagination of his descendants.
But, perhaps, only those men who were seen in passion to representatives of their sex (as, for example, Henrich himself) to these details. Although! So, in 1689, the famous Louis XIV took the English king-exile of Jacob II. And the rulers themselves, and their courtiers were raised in the last fashion: kaftans-justoculars, lush jabs and cuffs, long wigs. Of course, it did not cost without couplings - they served as a kind of marker, which could be found as much knowledge of the Palace Fashion, one or another noble gentleman. The couplings were exchanged, boasted, they were collecting and kept as a rich dowry. The "King Sun" had very exotic tastes: its tailors were used for a tiger fur clutter, panthers and beaver.
Male fascination with fur bags approved not all. The Duchess of Newcastle is the one that introduced a fashion on the flies, - in every possible way about this fashion. "How can a man rule a horse or keep a sword if he hid his hands in the coupling?" - Fairly noticed the famous scandalist.
Precious bundle
Over time, the sizes of the couplings changed. Men who still agreed with his indignantly ladies began to wear almost imperceptible miniature clutches, which were more likely to resemble modern bowls. Women, trying to stand out, preferred huge coupling. By the XVIII century, these accessories were finally turned into a "handicraft" like, where many expensive maiden hearts were regularly transferred.
In the desire to promise each other, women reached the absurdity. The dimensions of once graceful couplings increased all. Their length was such that the fur was concerned. As cavaliers noticed did notice, the feeling was evolving that in his fragile handles the young lady carries a whole haystack.
The situation was saved by the emergence of printed publications, where they wrote articles with recommendations from which materials, what colors and sizes should be a "decent lady" coupling. This is what the real Lady Fitzroy Stewart advises, one of the authors of the Encyclopedia for Women: "The coupling must be chosen in accordance not only with your means, but also with your way of life, and with your appearance." The ladies "in the body" were recommended to avoid the clutches of large, fur with a long pile, white and colored. They were offered bags small, square, from a sleek noble mink type animal. The brittle and miniature girls of small growth also did not follow large, lush couplings.
In the same article, Fitzroy tells how the noble lady should be clutch. "From the ten women met with me, I counted five, who carried the coupling in front of him, as if they had dragged heavy packages, one grabbed the clutch and skirt with the same hand, two were hidden in the coupling their frozen noses, one waved her, precisely toy, and only a tenth carried a precious fur cohepher as a true Parisian. " As for male preferences, the clutches were not completely expelled from everybody. Even Wilhelm II, King Prussia and the last emperor of Germany, proudly posed before the photographer with a fur accessory in his hands. Men discovered for themselves and the functional side of this once "feminine" bag. It turned out to be extremely convenient to store a small amount of cartridges or, for example, a set for cleaning weapons.
In the middle of the 20th century, the coupling was recognized and fell in love with Hollywood diva, which used it not as a means of insulation, but as a stylish item to their luxurious, rich images. I wore fur "handbags" Marlene Dietrich and Sophie Loren, Catherine Hepbrn and Lauren Baclal. Then the demand for elegant fur, and comfortable couplings turned from the necessary accessory. And only by the beginning of the new century, the designers again turned to this fashion form. Especially succeeded in the presentation of Celine and Balenciag's clutches: they combine various textures and fabrics, invent clutches for one hand, "vertical" scarves-couplings. Some brands (for example, Tory Burch) are inspired by the Golden Epoch of the King Sun.
By the way, in English, the coupling is called a clutch - is it not true, everything immediately becomes in place? Modern miniature clutches have become a convenient alternative to fur couplings, but nevertheless could not displace them from the pedestal. Today the fashion has returned to them. And we can feel Lady, Power and with the advantage of carrying your accessory, followed by a whole story.