(Continued. Beginning in "RD" No. 25)
Russian twig against ladies with oars
"At the right time in the right place" - so, it seems, the leader of the global revolution described the formula for success? I have all coincided.
In 1965, in the Paris newspaper "Yumat" about Soviet models, wrote: "Nothing can be further from the usual idea of the mannequins. This is not at all sophisticated beauties, but ordinary giving ordinary girls, very simple, very natural. And not surprising! Soviet citizens! " Among the domestic mannequins, then there were really no anorexic girls under two meters tall. They did not step on the podium with dark faces of the Terminator's girlfriends, and rather "strolled", meeting with the viewer and smiling to him. Earth women, 46th size, sixty-eight meters - seventy, in the prime. And after the appeals abroad, they came for the scenes to say "Thank you" for such an unexpected humanity. Moreover, to the surprise of foreigners, the Russians were not peasants in Rob and Naps, and not women-all-terrain vehicles (which and in the burning horses will enter, and the horse will stop). They saw "even more Parisians than Parisians themselves." They liked, despite all the conversations about the Soviet Mata Hari.
When I came, on the eve of the 70s, the "Woman for 30" reigned on the Soviet podium - a sort of lady, even a woman with a paddle (she made his way in life and can earn his wardrobe herself), with a bright red painted mouth, elastic forms. Even Galya Makushev, a girl from Barnaul (she had a stunning figure, stunning long legs) of twenty years, and also 30-year-olds showed. But in Europe, the London model of Twiggy has already thundered (twig, twig, in our opinion). Only 40 kilograms, the face of a teenager is a nasty duckling among homegrown ducks.
It was a new type of model - it will not place the wings with all the strength and power of the adult swan, but she is like an eternal promise of heyday. This youth, this charm is barely ready to dismiss bud - everything is on the verge. It fascinates. Provided transitional age - now the best triumph is in the world of fashion.
We in the USSR, as always, were a little delayed with regard to the "bourgeois sudrawers": our ideals of fashion and beauty slowly change their outlines. And yet, at about one time, a few more "thin and ringing" girls - Russian twigs appeared with me, - gradually pushed the old "stars." In any case, the new collections of artists began to develop, looking at us.
... I become a "eternal bride" of the glory of Zaitsev (why in secretly suffering in madly, dreaming to change the white veil on the "podium voyage" and the dresses with an open back).
Nymphs "Golden Century" - Regina Zbarskaya, Mila Romanovskaya, Augustine Shadov, Valentina Malakhov - Slowly go to the background. Someone will save emigration, successful marriage, but not everyone will be "saved." Probably the brightest and tragic flash on the horizon of the Soviet fashion of that time is the fate of Regina Zbar.
I will not say that I knew Zbar well. But I preserved one photo ... No, not regions. But this photograph reminds me that evening when I saw her. Zbarskaya was like a star, falling from a skyskle to a sinful land, - maybe she gave way to her happiness to others ...
Here I will return a little back, in the mid-60s, so that the reader understands what it is about. Of course, as I said, on the scale of the country, then little knew about the models. Their photographs appeared in the only "fashion magazine" in the country (produced, by the way, the house of models), but it was incompatible with the glory of the same actress, whose photo cards were diverged by millions of editions in the "Soyuz-Protection" kiosks. Girls dreamed of becoming such as Samoilova or Bystritskaya, and not as Zbar or Romanovskaya. But in a narrower circle - the circle of Soviet secular life - about the Zbar region, of course, everyone knew.
That's for sure: brunette with Karim Zbar's look - Star 60s. In her light it was impossible to warm up the outsiders. But the main thing is that this star light was still, and many: and actors, poets, and artists - in general, creative men, gladly covered their evening with this ghostly cold silver. (...) Fashion designer, Writer Evgenia Solodovnikova, who tried to unravel her life on the threads, restore the progress of the personal history of Regina, somehow wrote: "... She was pursued by fans. Poets devoted poems, artists painted. Regina in the Society "Sixtiets" attended the famous jazz club on Tverskaya. Here she smoked, and this is enjoyed by Academician Migdal, Andrei Voznesensky, Evgeny Yevtushenko, the actor Fedor Chekhankov ... "were among the contemplates and public persons, and astronauts - the paths of all were crossed at the top! (...)
The model with ... In general, it was not ideal from nature with her feet suddenly became irresistible on the podium. I know that the glory of the Zaitsev treated her in a special way. Zbarskaya was not, as the model, "hanger" for the clotted clothing - it was probably aware of the birth of fashion. Fashion designer and his muse. (...)
In 1963, when Pierre Cardin, Yves Montan and Actress Juliet Greco arrived in Moscow, Zbarskaya called Pheehi in fashion - some kind of "not ours" for us. Four years later, the same Cardin, Louis Ferro, Coco Chanel found the triumph of the "Russian queen" Regina at the International Fashion Festival. "Sister Sophie Loren," said Pierre Cardin.
But "who is given a lot - with that will ask much." The higher the takeoff - the greater the fall. "Do not say that happy until you reach the mortal evidence," the ancient was taught. Now everyone interested - thanks to the media - those terrible pages of the life of Zbarskaya have already opened, which, of course, were not advertised then and worried about it alone. (...) Gap with her husband Lv's Zbar, artist, film director, illustrator of books, the son of the legendary professor Boris Zbarsky, who faded the body of Lenin, the emigration of the ex-spouse, interrogations on Lubyanka - all this died regin. There were failed suicide attempts. Roman with a Zhugos Yugoslav journalist who came to the union was swirling. Roman with a foreigner (!) In the country for the Iron Curtain! When even for a visit to the "bohemian" restaurants could throw out from work! But the fate of fate has already spinned and imaginably brought the final. Yugoslav throws her, leaves the country of advice and ... allegedly produces an anti-Soviet book with photographs of the naked body of Regina. Lubyanka, nervous, or rather, spiritual breakdown, hospital. The podium seems to fall under it ...
They remember that already at the end of life - and she was only 50 (!) - She had ever more often the attacks, she died in his arrogance, pulled out of the apartment on the feather dear things, saying that they were unworthy of them ... Zaitsev (glory then There appeared his own fashion house on the avenue of the world) tried to support his distraught muse, took her wash the floors, to get out to pay at least some money. She left life in November 1987, at 51, she was found dead in the apartment, they say, poisoned with medicines ...
Yes, and now I will return to the photo with which you started. This photograph reminds me that evening when I saw her. Valera Plotnikov is our famous photographer, on whose score of many-many legends of the era (Yuri Lyubimov, Ilya Glazunov, Mikhail Kozakova, etc.) - Removed the young "recruitment" of the Eternal Fashion Theater, me, and Gali Maleukov. Zbar then only came out after treatment. I wanted to return to work - and then I got on our shooting. Although she looked great, realized that her time had passed, new faces came, new grima, new hairstyles, new clothes. She could not sit on the previous laurels. She again happened a breakdown, and she again fell into a psychiatric hospital ...
Yes! Zbarskaya was like a star, falling from a skyskle to the sinful land, - she inferior happiness with her death ... Russian TViggi survived a lady with a paddle from the scene.
If we talk about Mil Romanovsk (they were called eternal rivals and worst enemies) - I remembered about it: a Russian open person, always with a scythe (though, as it turned out, with the invoice). Usually worked in a pair with hello sank. If Zbarskaya called the Snow Queen, then I would compare with the Snow Maiden. Blooming blonde, breathing health and cheerfulness. I emigrated with the artist Yuri Cooper, but then they broke up ... He left for France, she asslaved in England, led a section of fashion on the BBC in Russian. I bought a house there, my daughter got married, herself married again ...
Floors fashion
And here I am in the main house of models of the Union, Kuznetsky Bridge, 14.
The house ... he was compared with the hives, where fashion travelers flew away from the whole Soviet district: here you can redraw in the notebook "An interesting shaped", buy a pattern, "fashion magazine" ...
Even after 40 years I remember this house with special feelings. So, Chekhov in the "Cherry Garden" brother Ranenevskaya suddenly appeals to the old cabinet: "Multi-dressed cabinet!" For the elderly heir of the dying nobility, this wardrobe is not "subject of interior", but the witness of the former joys and worries, miraculously lived to new days. And I want to say: "Hello, home!"
Time takes its own. Moscow has turned into an oasis of boutiques and shopping centers. The building with huge eyes-shop windows, cladding of granite, decorated with curls of stucco, now does not seem to be something unique. In old houses there was a resettlement of shower. Other people came - new orders and ideals have developed. But somewhere - maybe, in the depths of stone walls - still recorded, as in Moise, the voices of another era, when Kuznetsky, 14, was the center of Soviet Russian fashion. (...)
Labor model: "You are not a housewife!"
(About mannequins.)
We were sitting in the same room every day in the same room, together were on fittings, on shows, but I understood that neither one of these girls could not be frank. Work is not a place for love and friendship. This is the law. Bluffs, weather, recipe for masks ... You can discuss anything, just not your life. With whom you meet, where I went to the weekend, who are your dad and mom - you shouldn't know anything else.
Modern models have even such a "reputation rule": never discuss your personal life. And in life I had enough lessons to consider it "golden"!
By nature, a person is not evil and not angry. It seems to me that in me there is some kind of desire to unite and precisely this to conquer people, and not to rule dividing. I know and in the house of the models knew a lot of secrets, but they really "settled" in me. I have never included in the baton "secretly in the whole world." If something was told me, then at their own request. I was not curious in this sense. I may not believe, but I only in recent years when everyone hit "Sensational Revelations", when journalists began to dig in other people's biographies and personal life has become a "publicity of publicity", for the first time learned many things about those girls with whom she worked side by side five years.
One, it turns out, met with Khmelnitsky. In another lover there was a Taiwan and there were ties with the crime. The third without the end of the abortion did, every time it is not known from whom: came to the house of models, to our room; lay on the sofa, holding a hand from pain in the abdomen; Near the floor put a bag with his own things (she had no place to live). She was asked: "What are you?" - "Yes, bad something, okay." And in fact - once again from the hospital.
I did not discuss the others and did not want them to cling to something in my story. I hid that I meet with Nikita. And once he captured the morning newspaper with him into the house, on which Mikhalkov wrote something and signed, and by negligence left her on the table. Signature (!) Noted, immediately grabbed the number, saw that the number of today, made the conclusions and began like "in a friendly" to the whole "Juror" room: "And who is Tanya meet with us? Who knows? And does not say anyone?! " Just a scene from the Basni "Voron and Lisitsa" - in words such participation, and they know: if anything, you can add to the personal data. It will be useful when the manual will decide who to send to an overseas trip.
But Galya Makushev really saved me once. There was a company with a mannequin, where everything in a circle with each other relationship was built. There, if you enter - as in the Bermuda triangle, delay, you will disappear. I was also called this company, and Galya said: "You don't go there! Nikita in the army year? So wait for him! "
Older models - (Yakushev, others) were cleaned, as in the old black and white Soviet films. It seems that the time and people and people were then ... cleaner. (...)
In Marxism theory, there was such a concept as alienation: means of production, product of labor ... I do not want to climb into the economic and political or philosophical debris, but in principle the life of the model could be of great interest for any modern Marx or Engels ...
I have already said, Nikita always always tried to hide that his wife is a mannequin. But even if you do not talk about family disorders, the role of the mannequin at some point creates the conflict in the woman itself, inner. There is a sense of alienation from which I started. After all, what is, undressing up to the lingerie, stand in front of a team of people who are customized on you a new style try, trying to photograph? You really make a mannequin into an inanimate mannequin, hanger. It remains only in full compliance with some yoga to distract from your body and think that all this happens "with him", but not with you. It is necessary to forget embarrassment, constraint, a sense of humiliation. I remember when the first time I had to be on the fitting, I stood all the red, wet, I was so awkward, uncomfortable, ashamed. And this was still the innocent sewing process, where everyone first thinks about the dress, and not about you. And imagine how girls are going on in the model now? It differs little from the choice of a pioneer horse. Here it is already considered specifically every: teeth, chest, hair, "pins" - whether everything is natural. If anyone "blows up" - immediately "goodbye". Next, sorry, Tabun others.
The model should be ready to completely abandon its individuality: Write - will cut out gorgeous hair under the root, the natural blonde will repaint in red, by the evening - in black, the next day will send the hair with peroxide. You are "big white mole", on the face of which every artist, the designer will draw his own, what he wants to him. Being a model is slavery. You are a slave. And on the other hand, you can become a muse, whose help art is born. The main thing is to understand whether all the sacrifices will master ...
(To be continued.)
The author of the literary record Elena Dobryukha.