No matter how much the theories of aging scientists nor nominated, the fact remains a fact: to completely avoid what is programmed by genetics, we have not forces yet. Although, on the other hand, we can extend our youth, linger at the peak of strength and energy. For this phenomenon, there is even a special term - Vitauchet (from Lat. Vita - "Life" and Aucto - "Continuously Increasing, Minuda"), that is, the inclusion of mechanisms aimed at stabilizing the vitality of the body, its adaptation to changeable conditions. Thanks to the process of water, our cells are restored after damage and continue to function normally, however, when the aging begins to prevail, the age degradation is started in full swing. Each of us happens individually and at different times. Someone looks much younger than its peers, and someone, on the contrary, distils them by the number of age-related signs. Therefore, doctors have long been separated by a calendar and biological age. The first is determined by the date in the passport and the number of years of the years, and the second characterizes the true state of the body and its internal systems. Medicine of the future will be built on the definition of the biological age of a person and the extension of the mechanisms of the Vitaucca, now we have to deal mainly with the elimination of current problems.
Searches for solutions
"One of the most important trends of modern cosmetology is that more and more attention is paid to the diagnosis," says Tatyana Trotsenko, a dermatocosmetologist and a leading specialist of Astreya. - Before assigning any procedures, the doctor conducts a detailed examination of the patient, assesses individual reserves of the body, the ability of cells to regeneration and recovery. The dominant aging mechanism is also determined - it may be chronosta (age-related changes), biological aging (premature launch of fading processes due to adverse factors), photo-based (skin changes as a result of solar radiation). It is equally important to determine the skin type (dry, oily, normal, combined) and morphothype of the person. The fact is that the external signs of aging are manifested in people differently and depend on individual morphology. Among morphotypes are distinguished:
- small;
- "tired";
- deformation;
- Muscular.
Surface thin wrinkles are more inherent in small-corneous aging type; Deep and static - "tired" face that lost the tone; The predominance of mimic wrinkles is characteristic of muscular type; And the gravitational ptosis (cheers of the fabrics) can most often meet with a deformation morphothype. Depending on the type of aging, an individual aesthetic program of rejuvenation is selected, which includes both stimulating and corrective methods.
Stimulating methods force skin cells to "awaken" and earn in full force, they include:
- various peelings;
- biorevitalization;
- Hardware cosmetology.
Corrective methods are designed to mechanically remove wrinkles and other flaws of the skin. We are talking about the injections of botulinumoxin (reduction of the mimic activity of certain areas of the face), fillers (filling the deficiency of soft tissues and skin failures), reinforcement by various types of threads. "
Small-wrinkled type
Most often, this type of aging is in thin people of asthenic addition with a narrow oval face and a weakly sprinkled subcutaneous fatty tissue. They are not inclined to completeness even in adulthood and can maintain a stable weight throughout life. Due to the slight amount of subcutaneous fat and a rather good muscular tone in a small-degradal type, gravitational ptosis (tissue offset) and rarely the second chin is rarely expressed.
"The skin in people in small-corneous type is most often dry and thin, with a tendency to dehydration, irritation, vascular drawing, - continues Tatyana Trotsenko. - Dominant sign - numerous surface wrinkles on the face and neck, "goose paws" in the corners of the eyes, wrinkle of the upper and lower eyelid, "corrugation" in the area of the upper lip and chin. The biggest problem is the lack of moisture due to the impaired water homeostasis and the lack of natural lipids (fats) that moisture could be kept inside the skin.
Superficial wrinkles from representatives of this type appear earlier than others, by 30-40 years they have significantly worsening the moistening of the epidermis and dermis, aged 40-50 years for people of the small-corneous type are characterized by active manifestations of hormonal aging of the skin, and by 70 years of their face Can resemble a wrinkled baked apple.
In the aesthetic programs, the focus on the small-deductor type must be paid to the restoration of the protective barrier of the skin, moisturizing, nutrition, combating photorestation. "
"The way a woman looks in 30-35 years, directly depends on how it treated her skin and in previous years. Traces of sleepless nights are accumulated, the consequences of tanning abuse, illiterate or non-systematic facial care. At this age, a trend towards various types of aging begins. The small-degradary type of aging is characteristic of slim and thin ladies, which have dry, normal or mixed skin, is supported by a colleague Maria Chevychalov, a member of the National Aesthetic Medicine Society, head of the branch of Cosmetology AvroRaClinic. - The complexion becomes even more dull, even gray. The muscle tone changes, the wrinkles in the eye, interburs, forehead are aggravated. A pepperculent fold appears that gives the face to a tired look. In the absence of proper care, the face can be similar to the baked apple. "
To extend the skin youth with a small-degradary type of aging, it is necessary to provide it with the right home care and in the clinic. Home Recommended Soft delicate skin cleansing, toning, applying moisturizing or nutrient cream. Purchase creams containing lipid components that restore the protective layer of skin supporting moisture conservation in the skin (ceramides, unsaturated fatty acids, cholesterol), vitamin C, amino acids, peptides with the effect of wrinkling smoothing effect. From the procedures, for example, in the Avrora clinic, we recommend a variety of massages and hardware procedures that improve muscle tone. Light surface and surfactant peels based on fruit acids and B-hydroxyc acid, retinoyevoy, gas-liquid peeling. ELOS-therapy is aimed at improving tone and skin textures, eliminating disadvantages such as extended pores, hyperpigmentation, excess hair growth, minor wrinkles. Injection procedures are great importance, especially biorevitalization with hyaluronic acid-based preparations, as well as botulinity and contour plastic, allowing to restore both the skin surface and volumes and contours. "
What to choose?
Peelings
Improve the hydration of epidermis, achieve a quick and bright rejuvenation result allow surface peelings with 70% lactic acid and DMAE, such as the Lacipeel peeling from Mediiderma. The lactic acid gently exfoliates the skin, stimulates the work of fibroblasts, relieves inflammation, moisturizes, "pulls" into the Dmae derma, where he stabilizes the extracellular matrix and tones the muscles. Milk peeling is effectively fighting with photorestation, static wrinkles and leather flabbiness, significantly improves the complexion. With very sensitive skin, it is worth choosing anti-inflammatory formulations, such as glycolic peeling with placenta extract. Peeling does not cause irritation during the procedure, provides a lightweight recovery period, stimulates the production of new collagen and cellular regeneration.
To eliminate age wrinkles around the eyes and mouth, after a thorough washout of glycolic peeling, it is possible to properly apply a retinol solution (4- or 10%). Such a combined effect of two peels is recommended to perform a course of 4-6 procedures with a frequency once every two weeks.
Injection techniques
Biorevitalization, or subcutaneous administration of unstabilized hyaluronic acid, is particularly useful for representatives of a small-coronary type, because their skin is experiencing a constant lack of moisture. However, thin, "parchment" skin can be bad to react to the needles, after them are often irritated and hematoma, and the papulas are not resolved for a long time. Avoid all these troubles allows the device for electroporation. With it, hyaluronic acid is introduced into the skin without injections, pain and inflammation. For the transport of GK in the deep layers of leather, modulated pulse currents are used. Moreover, depending on the parameters of the procedure, the GK will accumulate in a specific leather layer at a given depth.
If the skin is more tolerant to injections, mesotherapy will become an excellent means for its nutrition and recovery.
The composition of mesotherapeutic cocktails should include vitamins, micro-elements (for example, silicon improves blood microcirculation and returns the elasticity of the skin), active moisturizing components (the same hyaluronic acid).
As for the contour plastics, monophazic fillers based on hyaluronic acid are more suitable for a small-corneous type. Preparations should be very plastic, low-density (20-24 mg / ml), since under thin skin, dense gels will create unwanted tubercles.
Ideally, the filler must combine the stabilized and unstable GC, which makes it possible to achieve not only the effect of filling wrinkles, but also revitalizing, skin moisturizing.
Cosmetic care
When choosing daily funds, thin dry skin holders should focus on its nutrition, protection and intensive moisturizing. They are suitable creams with a saturated structure based on natural oils (jojoba, carite, enotera, macadamia) and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Among the active ingredients are also welcome vitamins (A, E), trace elements, ceramides, phospholipids, sphingolipids, a secret of snails, hyaluronic acid.
Creams with oils and lipids contribute to the restoration of the protective mantle of the skin, increase the turgor and elasticity, provide maximum comfort for dry and damaged skin.
An extremely beneficial effect with a small-mastering type of aging is masks for the face and neck, to be applied to regular courses. For delicate and sensitive skin, it is better to choose moisturizing and lifting masks with a cream structure, as well as gel masks with seaweed extract. They provide optimal moisturizing, have a soothing effect, increase the immunity of the skin, restore its elasticity and elasticity.
"Tired" type
For this morphothip, a decrease in the elasticity of the soft fabrics of the face and neck, the pallor of the skin and the loss of elasticity, the tendency to the swelling is characteristic. "After 30 years, such a skin turns out of elastic and radiant in loose and dim, - Tatyana Trotsenko notes. - And in the morning or after a long rest, the face may look quite young, but in the evening there is an outdated, tired expression, the nasolabial folds and bags under the eyes appear. Most often, the "tired" effect is inherent in pretty thin people or norms with combined or oily skin.
After forty years, the nasolabial chances become particularly pronounced, the corners of the mouth are lowered, tear grooves appear, the tone of soft fabrics of the face and muscles. In addition to the genetic predisposition to the emergence of a "tired" type, smoking, lack of sleep, chronic fatigue, stress and hypodynamine.
The aesthetic correction of the "tired" type should be aimed at improving the tone of muscles and skin, restoring the impaired microcirculation, the saturation of the skin with the useful substances and antioxidants, stimulation of fibroblasts. "
"In my opinion, the early signs of skin fading flow from everyone approximately equally," says Maria Chevychalova. - From about 25 to 30-35 years, the condition of the skin of the face cosmetologists are characterized as "tired" face. It looks somewhat loose, the color is dim, the first wrinkles appear in the area of interference and eyes, the corners of the mouth are lowered, nasolabial folds are becoming more pronounced. The man looks as if he was tired and did not sleep. Actually, this is, since it is precisely for this active age a fairly large number of stresses associated with the creation of a family, the birth of children or career aspirations. As a result of stresses, spasm of vessels occurs, microcirculation is disturbed, which leads to a change in the color of the face. The muscle tone is disturbed due to uneven muscle tension, and since the muscle fibers on the face are partially woven into the skin, the first wrinkles appear. The skin suffers not only from stress, but also from external influences: excessive passion for tanning and solariums, dry air conditioned air, contaminated atmosphere of cities lead to increased dehydration of skin, sensitivity, redness and new wrinkles.
No matter how grieved the first external changes, it is still quite simple to cope with them. It is first necessary to establish sleep mode. Sleep is half a beauty at that age. Secondly, ensure the skin competent care, which includes soft, delicate skin cleansing, tonization and moisturizing. In the solar time (from February to September) you need to use sunscreen cosmetics, even in the conditions of the city. In the cold time - to protect your face from frost during the day, and in the evening moisturize and nourish the skin. The following procedures are very effective: microcurrents, lightweight peelings - for example, with fruit acids. ELOS-therapy for the prevention of skin aging and the correction of the emerging skin deficiencies: extended vessels, pores, excess hair growth. Perhaps injecting procedures. For example, mesotherapy with preparations that improve blood circulation in the skin, vitamins and hyaluronic acid to restore the moisture-holding skin ability, reducing the depth of wrinkles. Often at this age spend the first correction of nasolabial folds and folds in the corners of the mouth.
What to choose?
Peelings
In 30 years, the prevention of aging will be quite a fairly intensive course of dairy peels (20% lactic acid + 20% arginine). 5-7 procedures will put the skin in order, significantly improve its qualitative characteristics, get rid of premature wrinkles. In signs of photobores, peeling with retinol, ferulic acid and satellite oxygen will help. Such peeling is effectively fighting with small wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, tuskiness of the skin, reduced by the tour, contributes to the transportation of active substances into the dermis.
After 40-50 years, the peeling program must be more saturated and increasing the larger number of procedures. With the "tired" morphothype with age, there is a degradation of a collagen-elastin skin frame, and simply speaking, the face loses its shape and a tone. The so-called yellow peelings with active forms of vitamin, A (Retinol) will be the most effective in this case. Retinol contributes to intensive exfoliation of dead cells, regulates the operation of epidermal cells, slows down the degeneration of collagen.
Injection techniques
Mesotherapy is the most suitable therapeutic technique with the "tired" type of aging, which allows to solve a large number of problems. Individually selected drugs are introduced with small doses into problem areas, after the course of the procedures, the effect of lifting and rejuvenation is achieved, the skin becomes fresh, tightened, elastic, healthy complexion appears.
Among the most preferred ingredients:
- Dmae. (dimethylaminoethanol), which restores the tone of the muscles of the face and neck, eliminates the flabbiness of the skin, adjusts the traces of pedestal and hyperpigmentation;
- Vitamin Mineral Cocktails, which saturate the skin with the necessary nutrients, activate local immunity, maintain the normal functioning of the cells;
- N-acetylglucosamine, Cleaning signs of chronovation (small wrinkles, ptosis, reducing the turgora) and photoregments (dehydration, hyperpigmentation).
All types of mesotherapy improve the microcirculation in the skin, stimulate reparative processes and regeneration.
Cosmetic care
Biocellulose masks are ideal as intense rejuvenating therapy, which are a smooth web of the three-dimensional structure - the product of biotechnology obtained as a result of cellulose fermentation. Due to the strong occlusion, masks contribute to the deep penetration of the active ingredients and simultaneously perform micromassage of the skin.
For example, Biomask Collagen Booster from Mediiderma, which includes Matrixyl, Gingko Biloba extracts and Asian centers, activates the production of own collagen, speeds up the regeneration, stimulates the operation of fibroblasts. As a result, the skin is tightened, wrinkles smoothed, the facial muscles comes into tone.
As for daily funds, it should be stopped on those that adjust the complexion of the face, the structure of the skin and wrinkles. Return the skin freshness and healthy blush will help drugs based on vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is well caring for sluggish, atonic skin, restores its vitality, aligns the tone, gives radiance and protects against free radicals.
The use of fucked products with ferulic acid will eliminate signs of photoregments: the acid will protect the cell DNA, rejuvenates the skin and will have a slight clarifying effect.
A facial massage of the face will be an excellent addition to cosmetic care. For a "tired" morphotype, a special structuring massage is required, which effectively eliminates signs of aging, strengthens and pulls not only the skin, but also the muscles of the face. The maximum result can be achieved if you combine a massage with applying active tonic drugs.
Increase skin immunity!
"It has been proven that the skin retains elasticity and a fresh appearance of people with high immune status. The newest studies of the geonstologists argue that the mechanism of human immunity after 40-50 years of age is implemented by the prevailing manner through immunocompetent cells located in the epithelium, and the immune status at this age directly affects the appearance of the skin, "says Alexander Southenko, doctor, trainer expert Mesopharm company. - an effective way to increase skin immunity and support cellular update processes is the use of nucleic acid complexes - polynucleotides. Nucleotides have a powerful moisturizing effect, promote protection against free radicals, restore and maintain natural skin renewal processes: fibroblasts begin to reproduce the components of the dermal matrix themselves - collagen and elastin fibers, hyaluronic acid. The aging of new epidermis cells is accelerated and their movement to the surface is accelerating, due to which its upper layer is updated in 2-3 weeks, and this leads to rejuvenation, most noticeable in the case of fading skin. Nucleotides are also able to stimulate the implementation of the mechanism of the skin immunity, which applies to the entire body as a whole. It is also important that elevated immune status, in turn, guarantees effective protection of the skin from adverse environmental factors, and this is equally relevant for young and fading skin. Due to the effects of the set of nucleotides on the skin at the level of cellular metabolism, as well as at the level of stimulation of the mechanism of cellular immunity, degenerative processes are resistant.
Polynucleotide-based complexes ADNRESTART and INIZIO are an excellent tool for stimulating the metabolism and the normalization of tissue respiration, the recovery of the synthesis of collagen, and, consequently, the turgore and tone of the skin characteristic of young age. After the course of mesotherapy procedures, polynucleotide-based drugs smoothed the wrinkle network, the color of the face is aligned, traces of fatigue disappear.
Collection of effective procedures
... from Hydropeptide.
"The Hydropeptide® brand offers an effective professional face care with pronounced signs of aging," says Julia Gerasimov, Hydropeptide cosmetologist. - The program provides a differential approach to solving specific customer problems. First, an increase in skin elasticity, removal of toxins, purification, narrowing of pores, as well as relaxation of unwanted facial expressions, leveling of skin relief, saturation of its enzymes and antioxidants, peptides and enzymes. Secondly, intensive hydration is provided, an antioxidant effect and rejuvenation of its own skin stem cells. Thirdly, the program has an anti-stress, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effect. Care begins with demacia. The beautician removes water and fat-soluble pollution from the skin of the face, neck and neckline using HydropepTide® Cleanse, which contains 10% glycolic acid, neuro and aminoptides, jojoba granules. Then with the help of cotton disks and Hydropeptide® Tone tone the skin. After that, two-stage peptide peeling. The effects of aha-and lactic acids, the granulated form of vitamin C, amino and neuropeptides have a rejuvenating effect. If there are comedones on the skin, they are removed. If not, the massage is done. HYDROPEPTIDE® SERUM is mixed with Hydropeptide® Tone and applied to the skin of the face, neck, neckline, after which a point, plastic or lymphatic drainage massage is carried out. Hydropeptide® Serum will need to be used with physiotherapy techniques - ultrasound or electroplating. But the mask is selected according to the individual readings of the client: an increase in skin elasticity, intense hydration, antistress. While the mask affects the skin of the face, the beautician makes the hand massage. It is known that nothing is so gives the age of a woman like hands. The combination of HYDROPEPTIDE® MOISTURIZE and HYDROPEPTIDE® TONE is saturated with aminoptides, moisturize and nourish it. The mask from the face is removed using a preheated wet compress, which enhances the action of enzymes and activates microcirculation and metabolic processes. The next step of the departure is intensive recovery, moisturizing and protection, as well as saturation of amino and neuropeptides, growth factors and colostrum derivatives. Hydropeptide® Serum massage movements are distributed over the skin of the face, neck and neckline. And Hydropeptide® Eye is applied to the area of the upper and lower eyelid. In the final - mandatory use of the means to protect against the active Sun. Hydropeptide® SPF 30 is evenly distributed over the skin of the face, neck and neckline. To achieve a strong result, a course of 8-10 procedures once a week is recommended. "
... from Yon-Ka, Paris
"The Alpha-Vital procedure is a unique method of professional soft surface peeling with 30% fruit acids within the Aromatherapy YON-KA aromatherapy procedure," says Olga Petraschuk, a candidate of biological sciences, a beautician, a teacher of the MegaSPA training center. - As a result of a 28-day course of therapy with fruit acids, the protective forces of the epidermis, the restoration of the natural pH value, the saturation of the skin moisture, strengthening and synchronizing the processes of update of the epidermis, the normalization and intensification of metabolic processes both in surface and deep layers of the skin, is significantly improved The skin color, it becomes more elastic and elastic, aligns its relief, minor wrinkles disappear. During the aromatic joining Yon-Ka, several drops of Emulsion Concentree with the aroma of Lavender, Geranarine, Rosemary, Cypress and Thimyan are applied to the hands of the cosmetologist with the aroma, after which tangent movements are held. Then the decolte area and the face impose a warm aromacompress with the addition of several drops of fitted. With the help of cleaning milk with vegetable emulsifiers, gently remove pollution and moisturized with an an aqueous solution of Emulsion Concentree during a warm microcrust spray using the Lucas Championniere apparatus. To remove eroded flakes from the surface of the skin, on the neck, face, the area of the neckline and the eyelids are applied with gommage with the gum of the horn tree and the essential oils of citrus fruits, which, as they get rolling and removed. Alpha-EXFOLIATEUR fruit peeling is applied to a well-purified and moist skin with glycolic, lactic, wine and citric acids in combination with geranium and grapefruit essential oils. Ana-peeling very gently affects the skin, not irritating it. The drug is applied to the face with special cotton chopsticks for 10-20 minutes, depending on the session and remove with a wet terry towel. Exposure on centuries lasts 2 minutes. For 10 minutes, the drug is performed by YON-KA cotton chopsticks massage for the development of problem areas. Then, in a mixture of fruitelia emulsion with 2% of fruit acids and oil concentrate, the YON-KA branded lymphatic drainage massage is carried out for 15-20 minutes. In conclusion, care is applied alginate mask with extracts of marine algae, currant, pineapple and pleasant fruit aroma. Arms and lips during a mask are applied alpha-conto gel with 0.5% fruit acids. Fruitelia is used to protect the skin against aggressive environmental action. Complete care to the awakening of rosemary stimulating smells and back massage on a moisturizing body for a body with sweet almond oil. "