According to one of the popular theories, the first prepositions of our today's hero were found during the excavations of the tombs of Also Bronze Age. However, researchers argue with this version, since sewing in those distant times was unlikely to be so developed to create such a complex piece of clothing. And it is really considered to be so on Croy, the number of elements and technology of sewing. So agree that when excavations were found like a tuxedo, but still the real prototypes are worth searching in times not so distant.
Related beginnings
At first there appeared a surpetuk. This french word was born in the XVIII century, together with the clothes, which indicated. They wore it in Russia. So, Peter I at the beginning of the XVIII century punished everyone, except peasants and clergy, put on exactly such a caftan. And although this clothes did not like this, as all foreign ones did not like in those days, but it had to wear it. You won't go against the king. In France, everything was the opposite: there the surpetuk was considered a very prestigious element of the wardrobe, it was possible to wear it only with the King's permissive. Such permission emphasized the social level of velmazby, its significance and knowledge, and possessed them at the courtyard a person fifty, no more. She sewed the "great-grandfather" jacket from expensive fabrics - brocades and velvet, decorated with rich embroidery and precious stones.
However, in the middle of the XVIII century, the fruce became unfounded, and the vacant place immediately took a fracture - in this embodiment, the cut-off floors appeared, and behind the long Falda. At first he was just an officer form, as it is especially convenient with horseback riding - long floors do not interfere and are not confused between the legs. In the second half of the XIX century, the usual people began to wear it. And not with pants, but exclusively with the palsions.
Tuxedo appeared at about one time with Frak - in the XIX century
Photo: pixabay.com/ru.
When the fracture got to Russia, the European outfits had already taken root. He quickly became a trendy, screaming and causing clothes, he appreciated the advanced young people. True, Empress Ekaterina II, at which it all happened, the innovation did not approve. And in order to beat off the interests of the overseas things in young people, surcharged ordinary booths into the phraits. On the bold young men, this mockery has felt weakly, and they continued to decorate in fashionable clothes. But everything quickly ended: Paul I was asked for the throne. A man of strict rules, he decided not to be kinking with young people and just forbade the cramless item of the wardrobe. However, he quickly returned Nikolai I as a uniform of officials. She has become uniforms of dark blue or dark green. Civilians could wear frances of other colors: brown, sand, blue or mustard, but the style was the same. And, by the way, he has almost changed since then, only the appointment has changed - now it's clothing for evening and solemn events. In the first half of the twentieth century, the rules for its wearing and sewing were formed. The ball fracture was in the overwhelming majority of cases black, but sometimes allowed white. However, the black lining must have been white. Completed the image of the cylinder.
It turns onto the scene
The tuxedo appeared at about one time with Frak - in the XIX century. For the first time, he is mentioned in the book of orders of the famous tailor Henry Pula, who in 1865 he took to sew a suit Prince Welly.
But if the fracture immediately became something formal, then the tuxedo was at first there was more like a selection of home apparel. How did it happen? The fact is that his appearance helped a colonial policy held by the British Empire. It was then that from the new light to Europe began to fall a little-known plant at that time - tobacco. Unfortunately joined the smoking. In order not to annoy the ladies by the smell, they closed in separate rooms. And before getting out of the hall, they put on special clothes, so as not to soak smoke. She began to be called a tuxedo from the word smoke - "smoking". The jackets of that time were similar to short bathrobes and their mission performed regularly. First, they were protected from smoke. Secondly, ash, fallen on satin lapels, was easily rolled on the floor, and the men remained in the original shine. (By the way, we will make a small remark: now the question of NO Smoking can be quite busted as "tuxedo forbidden").
Men gathered together - this is a kind of club in interest. Gradually, such apparers began to wear not only in smoking rooms, but also in other places where gentlemen met: on business and friendly meetings. However, the tuxedo was still the rank lower than the fracture. At first, the highest society and hear did not want him about him, put it on the reception was simply unacceptable. But time went, and the nobles were increasingly changed to dress up for dinner not in the solemn fracture, but in the dress easier. This metamorphosis happened at the end of the XIX century, when Europe experienced interest in everything that was associated with the East. To this put the English poet George Byron, who traveled all of Turkey. In contrast to uncomfortable, cumbersome fraks, the tuxedo was comfortable and therefore quite quickly turned into an outfit for receptions.
Marlene Dietrich in a tuxedo and cylinder
Photo: Frame from the movie "Morocco"
In America, he became popular a little earlier than in England. In 1886, famous dandy and tobacco magnate Griswold Loriyard demonstrated to the public in the Tuxedo Park country club, near New York, evening jacket with silk lapels, but without a phrato fald. Very quickly, the entire American elite has become suggesting in such robes. Since then, the Americans call it tuxedo.
In the 20th century, the ladies drew on our hero. Marlene Dietrich appeared in the movie "Morocco" in a tuxedo and cylinder, and it was only the beginning. Iv Saint Laurent quickly took the case. In 1962, the famous designer opened his own brand and showed a collection that forever changed the fashion. He dressed girls in pants and jackets. What was previously considered men's clothing, from now on, became the main highlight of the ladies' wardrobe. At the end of the sixties, the tuxedo turned into an indispensable attribute of the female evening dress is hardly on a par with a small black dress Coco Chanel.
Breaking borders
For one hundred and fifty years, the evening men's jacket changed slightly. But today there is a well-established list of requirements that should be strictly executed. Pants are manufactured without the ability to wear a belt, a dark color suspenders are used. Tuxedo light shades - a very rare phenomenon, practicing only in the warm season and at weddings. Black color is universal for this outfit. From the jewelry, a man who put this jacket can only afford. Clock - only pocket. The material for its tailor is wool. With him put on a silk belt or a black vest. The vest should be made of fabric, which is used in lapels. Linen or cotton shirt, rarely from silk. The bow tie is made of a combination of wool and silk ... In general, imagine this outfit James Bonda - apologuisa of a British strict style.
Why do you need all these rules? Of course to break them! And now it is not forgiven to put on a tuxedo with jeans, reducing the degree of pathos. Or completely combine a strict jacket with bales, as it loves to make Robert Downey Jr., Luke Wilson and many other actors. Color solutions are also very different. By the way, lapels may not be silk or satin, but, for example, leather, velvet, swept up with rhinestones or sequins. In the last version, the rap and R'n'B stars are liked.
And, of course, with the light hand of Iva Saint-Lauren, this jacket can wear not only gentlemen. In modern fashion, the contrast of the female body and men's clothing is very popular. According to many designers, gross wardrobe items are able to give a special charm and sexuality to the girl. Tuxedo can often be seen in collections of trendy houses like Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant or Ralph Lauren.
Women's models are very different from male. They are in a different way, they have a different silhouette and are not limited to strict rules. However, the obvious characteristic of the tuxedo is its elegant style, involving the wearing of this outfit both on a solemn occasion and as an option for a more informal exit. Some variations of this outfit look more stricter, some less, but in any case you should understand that the tuxedo is always an event, and most often that you could wear a dress.
In other words, buy a beautiful jacket and trendy trousers - it is only half. You need to decide how to wear it and with what to combine. Thank God, women violate the rules as easily as men. Let's use it. For example, replace strict trousers on narrow jeans: in this image you can safely go even to a meeting with girlfriends. Do not forget only about high-heeled shoes and accessories in the form of thin chains and bracelets. Or take note of the extremely sexual option - the jacket, suitable on top of the dress-combination. Such an image will attract universal attention to you. And especially bold fashionista can throw it and at all on a naked body - it stunningly emphasizes forms. Tuxedo to the office? Yes, but only if we are talking about the peculiar hybrids of the hero of our material and a conventional jacket, without an underlined gloss and chic, otherwise you risk embody the live famous phrase about the campaign "to work as a holiday."
Summing up, let's say that, appearing a year and a half ago, the tuxedo almost immediately took a durable place at the trendy sky. Now both men and women appear in it on red tracks or television interviews and are actively worn in everyday life.