Fashion can boldly be called the most mobile and flexible sphere of art: its directions change every ten years (if not more than). But the most radical and unexpected turn in the Fashion industry historians consider the bright decade of the sixties. Yesterday you wore restrained and feminine costumes of a-silhouette, and today boldly clothe in the trapezoidal dresses-mini colors "pull the eye". Fashionable dorm, which led to real conflicts of the elder and the younger generations, gave us the talented designers of the century.
All in this world is transient and repeated. These philosophical reflections on how the world is arranged, it is possible to shift on the fashion industry. It would seem that the innovative era, saturated ten years, in which humanity first met with robotic and space, will not find parallels in the past. And yet today, we can confidently say that Swing Sixty, unique and unique, inspired by the same unique twentieth years - this is visible on the cut of the female dress, using individual accessories and elements of the decor of finished outfits, and in general these two generations, divided Almost half a century, seem close to each other in the atmosphere and spirit.
Simply space!
Nevertheless, with all the similarity, the differences are visible to the naked eye. The changes that society faced at the beginning of the sixties turned over the human consciousness. First of all, the conquest of space on all spheres of our activity was a great influence on all areas of our activity. When it became clear that endless expanses of the universe could be conquered, the imagination of scientists, directors and, naturally, the fashion designers were blown with unprecedented force. Dreams of extraterrestrial civilizations gave rise to a powerful movement of futurism: in the film industry it resulted in the appearance of Arthaus, and the podium captured strange, sometimes frightening and certainly not similar to classic female suits silhouettes. Huge shoulders, massive collars-racks, boots-boots, made not from familiar flax, cotton, silk or velvet, but from viscose, vinyl, and even foil tissues, turned out shows into space parades. The new style was chased by Paco Raban and Elsa Skiaparelli, Christobal Balenciaga actively used new materials, reducing tremendous popularity among young people. Pierre Cardin presented a collection of the "Era of Cosmos". In short, the synthetics conquered fashion masters, which in a single impulvement began the destruction of characters and forms of classical femininity. Remember the images of perfect housewives in neat dresses and starchy alers? Now these housewives have experienced (and often very painful) layer of the system: instead of okay tailoring skirts and sitting on the figure of restrained blouse they were proposed to be in dresses-bathrobes with insane prints. Moreover, Puritan and very comfortable Midi's length rapidly lost its position, giving way to a bold mini. And today we know exactly who is worth thanks for this innovation.
The author of the sexual skirt, whose hem Lojo opened his knees and the main part of the thigh, was Marie Cuant, London designer and just a decisive woman, dividing the ideas of the sexual revolution and sabised the momentum of feminism. It was she who said a sacramental phrase: "Good taste is death, vulgarity - life!" Mini, I gladly began to produce and replicate and fashion designer Andre Kurrzha, and now the already young girls were fused through the streets of megacities in their frankness of the outfits, and their mother, the very "desperate housewives" were grabbed.
In general, the classic conflict of fathers and children, having a place in each generation, has gained new meanings in sixtieth. Parents, educated in the traditions of chastity and restraint, could not accept the fact that sex literally broke into the life of their children - and we are not so much about natural attractions, but about their deliberate demonstration. The last stronghold of the femininity of the old sample was Jacqueline Kennedy. She combined socially furnished dukey costumes, but used already modern geometric cut, wide-grade hats changed on sharply "pills" and berets. But alas, Jackie shortly influenced the minds of the younger generation - after the murder of her spouse, President Kennedy, she stopped appearing in the public for almost ten years, and the role-playing model for young species was the legendary Leslie Hornbi, known to the world as Twiggy.
Thin like a straw, with a radical short for that time with a haircut, she changed the presentation of designers about what the perfect mannequin should be. Twiggy was similar to the crazy, who did not form until the end of the teenager: the narrow thighs, sharp shoulders, a miniature chest, a thin face with huge eyes ... She became the ideal of new femininity, putting the beginning of a not completely healthy desire for girls to fight "external" weighing. On TViggi perfectly looked at dresses-trapezoids, the so-called Babidoll-dress: short, similar to the sundress, creating the image of modern lolita. She also made a popular sleeveless with a high gate, laconic dresses with three-quarters sleeve and dresses.
Another same icon of the style of the sixties began, as they would say today, the secular lioness, the muse of the legendary Andy Warhol, the beauty of Edie Sedgevik. She looked like twiggy as a native sister, but instead of a career model chose the lot of a popular party party. Sedgevik adored the so-called go-go-boots - boots created specifically for dances. Comfortable, in a steady heeled, they perfectly combined with mini-dresses, new Capri pants and skinny jeans and allowed to have the opportunity for their owner all night.
But not all attracted the image of a nymphite girl, almost an ether essential being. Among the models, the Twiggy competition was the German Menneckle Verushka, who not only shone on the podium, personifying himself a strange combination of ass and andfinity, but also starred in the cult film "photo ending" of the Italian Master Michelangelo Antonioni. Then he was worried about his career flourishing and Elizabeth Taylor. To the sixtieth, thirty-year-old actress already wore the rank of Queen Hollywood, married the fourth time and inspired the designers with their favorable, but such recognizable style. Total onions in the leopard, white trouser suits and, of course, the casual makeup with the arrows from the picture "Cleopatra" made Taylor's original epoch icon.
Naturally, it is impossible to go around the attention and sensuality and sexuality of the French star Brick Bardo, which has become a real sex symbol of the sixties. She was not like any of the actresses of Big Cinema - in Bardo, it was combined so appreciated vastness of youth, mature tomost and amazing immediacy. Unlike his heroines, Brigit was very shy, worried about his appearance, but at the same time enjoyed great popularity from the opposite sex. The actress wore relaxed blouses with vests, short skirts, boots, carelessly combed their long blond hair into a high disheveled beam or a legendary Babett. This laying got into a number of classic and still adored the many women. However, the hairstyles should be told separately.
Higher and higher
The sexual revolution, which we have already mentioned, affected not only on how casual costumes began to look (remember even the trouser costume Iva Saint-Laurean for Catherine Denev, who made him the main revolutionary of the fashion world), but also on the haircuts. In the past, complex laying of the curl of the curl went to the curl, Hollywood loose hair did not stand the competition with the same "Bestta", to create which it was only required to highly raise a shop, twist it into an unassuming knot and release a couple of playful strands. But even she was inferior to the creations of Stylist Vidal Sassun. Canonical haircuts Twiggy, Mia Farrow and other stars - his hands. His approach to female styling was uncompromising: no "old nests" and "bee hives", as a young and daring master of the hairstyle called that time, only a fresh cut, only pure geometry! "Chanel hairstyle" was so called in the fashionable circles of Sassun, for a long time collaborated with Marie Kuant. Working with the creator of mini skirts, he warned that he would be guided by her principle - to cut off all unnecessary. So the podium came out the models from a boyish sharp contours on short beans and playful pixies. The famous hairdresser developed a whole philosophy of working with hair, invented by the Slogan Wash-N-Go (literally "washed and went"). It greatly facilitated the ladies regular care: they did not need any tons of varnish, nor the help of stylists, only shampoo and comb. Sassin's haircuts looked unmatched.
The geometric kare, which glorified the maestro, was perfectly combined with a common trend - the designers literally went crazy in squares, triangles, ovals and circles. Folding out in abstract paintings, fascinating geometry decorated the entire wardrobe, both female and male. Emilio Puchchi especially succeeded in replicating futuristic prints.
Special chic was considered to wear a square from Sassun, high boots and a trapezing dress, stitched, for example, from Vinyl. From the brilliant material, trousers were perfectly perfectly (closer to the end of the sixties began to enter clams), and coat. The image was completed with clear black arrows and the black eyelashes. It was then that the effect of "sparse paws" began in the go, when the makeup artist generously, the layer over the layer imposed a thick mascara. And no lipstick! As a last resort, it was allowed to point the lips with a light tone so that they do not distract attention from the spectacular eye makeup.
Sounds of music
The film, art and music industry also reflected the mood of the swing generation. Directors were fascinated by Arthaus, France presented the world "New Wave", and Andy Warhol and Roy Liechtenstein made pop art with a new type of modern art. In general, bright, contrasting, cartoon images taken from comic books and adapted to real life, - it is, the most accurate illustration of the time. Colored tights have become the main addition to any, even the most stringent image, and women really looked like a heroine of a favorite teenagers.
In the musical world, in the meantime, the rock movement is developing and gaining momentum. The main singers of the epoch are Rolling Stones with their charismatic leader Mick Jagger. So whoever did not hesitate to go to the scene in the shirts in large peas, narrow skinnie and huge vinyl shoes! Hold their positions and The Beatles, they begin to go down to the peak of Glory Jimmy Hendrix and the gloomy Jim Morrison with his team The Doors, conquers fans of Bob Dylan. The efforts of Nancy Sinatra becomes ubiquitous jazz. Rock quickly goes into a category almost classics, and then gradually gives the palm of the championship to psychedelic groups. Pink Floyd is starting their career in the middle of the Deep Purple, LED Zeppelin and Deep Purple closer to its end, but they will conquer their world fame and the army of fans a little later. Seventies start.
The times of space expansion, refusal from the old role models, the change of the canons of female beauty - the generation of those who have grown under the influence of the sexual revolution and feminism, remains in the memory of fashion creators and still inspires them on the feats. Mark Jacobs almost every year confesses to love with his "teachers" of Pierre Carda and Iva Saint-Laurean, Prada and Fendi with enviable persistence produced collections that we carry us on half a century ago. Louis Vuitton which season exploits silhouettes, and the "cosmic era" prints, as well as Balenciaga with Moschino.
Clear lines, abstract geometry, unusual materials firmly entered the workshops of the couture and are not going to leave them. What to say about mini and boots, without which no modern girl does not represent your wardrobe! Thanks to the rethinking heritage of the sixties, we can again and again return to the glorious era, when a person proved that it is able to conquer not only the earthly, but also intergalactic space. Here we go?