Absolutely everyone is familiar with lactic acid - even people are far from chemistry and cosmetology. After all, it is formed with lactic acid fermentation, in particular, present in the black milk and sauerkraut. Drinking black milk, of course, is not recommended, but to apply on
Zhu - easily, and you can get a positive result from this.
Despite the fact that the lactic acid "serves" a person for a very long time, for the first time it was allocated only in 1780 by the Swedish chemist Carl Shelele from sour milk. The opening of the following years has established its tremendous importance for the human body, including for the skin, where it is a component of a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). In other words, lactic acid is a biologically related component.
It is added to many pharmaceutical and food products: in baby food, beer, dairy products, meat, animal feed, as well as cosmetics.
In cosmetology, lactic acid is a biofermentation product, which guarantees its purity from extraneous impurities and increases its effectiveness. Usually when it comes to AHA acids, the milk acid is remembered far from immediately against the background of its more popular "product" - glycolic, salicylic, almond acids. Meanwhile, the milk acid can be called the gold standard among all fruit acids due to its unique properties and gentle action.
Always in winning
"Milk acid belongs to the class of alpha hydroxyc acid (AHA), or, as they are also called, fruit acids, therefore, its exfoliage will come to first place. However, compared to the same glycolic acid, it acts more mildly and physically, therefore it can be recommended even for sensitive skin, "says Tatyana Mayatskaya, to. M. N., Dermotokostologist, director of ANO" Cosmetics Test ", Director of the Scientific Testing Center "Cosmetology". - If the concentration of lactic acid in the drug complies with safety and efficiency standards, its positive effect on the skin is very large, and the negative effect on the protective, barrier and metabolic functions of the skin is eliminated.
Milk acid helps reduce the thickness of the upper (horn) layer of epidermis,
Makes the skin smooth and smooth, prevents the borders of the stale glands and the formation of comedones (black dots). Penetrating at the mouth of a sebaceous gland, lactic acid contributes to the timely removal of burned scales accumulated in the duct, which prevents inflammation. Holders of fatty problem skin, it helps eliminate traces and scars after acne.
In caring for fading skin, the use of drugs with lactic acid allows to reduce the cycle of the epidermis update from 45 to 26-28 days, thereby bringing it to the physiological norm. As a result, the peeling is eliminated, the complexion of the face and the appearance of the skin is significantly improved.
The second one should certainly note, speaking of lactic acid, this is its humidification function. At the molecular level, it is part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), adjacent to amino acids, urea, pyrrolidoncarboxylic acid and other components. Milk acid binds and keeps moisture, creating
around yourself a kind of water shell. Moreover, the moisture is not just going, but also correctly redistributed towards the deep, "living" layers of the skin, which allows the creation of a balanced moistening effect in the epidermis.
Another beneficial property of lactic acid is its ability to strengthen the barrier properties of the skin, contributing to the production of ceramides, which together with cholesterol and fatty acids form a lipid layer, due to which the skin loses moisture less and better opposes the influence of external negative factors. However, water-saving mechanisms work not only on the surface, in the epidermis, but also deeper - in the dermis. Milk acid has a stimulating effect on the special cells of this skin layer - fibroblasts, which increases the synthesis of hyaluronic acid - a substance actively attracting moisture and playing the role of a natural filler that supports the turgor of the skin. This leads to an improvement in its elasticity and smoothing wrinkles.
The rejuvenating, or, as it is fashionable to speak, anti-age effect produced by lactic acid. It is associated with its ability, on the one hand, stimulate the activities of fibroblasts in the dermis, thereby creating conditions for updating the structural elements of this layer, and on the other - to speed up the refreshment of skin cells. Traditionally, cosmetologists call such an action regenerating. As a result, the quality of the skin is improved, it becomes more elastic and elastic, smoothed fine wrinkles.
Separate attention should be paid to the whitening properties of lactic acid, which were widely known since the Cleopatra. Residents of Europe and Asia actively used fermented fermented fermented spots and improve the color of the face, because even the tone looks healthy and more attractive.
Currently, two mechanisms for the action of lactic acid, which lead to skin whitening are known. The main mechanism is based on exfoliance, when a part of the pigment is found along with the Epidermis organic cells. However, drugs containing lactic acid in high concentrations are operating differently. They brighten the skin due to their ability
Partially block the activity of a special enzyme, tyrosinase responsible for the formation of melanin skin pigment. This allows you to deal with hyperpigmentation at a deeper level.
In addition, due to its ability to have anti-inflammatory action, lactic acid relieves such a manifestation of an inflammatory response like a peeling. The antibacterial properties of lactic acid is based on its "acidifying" effect,
As well as special particles of lactations that slow down the development of many microorganisms. "
Where to find?
"Milk acid can be found both as part of the peeling agents used for professional care and in products for daily home care: in night and day creams, gels for washing, serums and lotions, - notes Tatyana Mayatskaya. - Depending on the concentration, its effect may be exfoliating, moisturizing regenerating.
Chemical peels with lactic acid help reducing the number of horns
Cells, thereby improving the penetration of active ingredients (in the composition of peeling or preparation applied immediately after it) and at the same time improve local microcirculation.
Their unique property is low photosensibilization, in other words, they in the smallest extent increase the skin sensitivity to ultraviolet. The size of the molecule of lactic acid is noticeably larger than, for example, glycolic, therefore it does not have the dangers of uneven and deep penetration, and therefore the risk of hyperpigmentation is reduced. This property allows milk peelings even in the spring-summer period, which, however, does not cancel the need to use protective equipment with ultraviolet filters.
In professional peels, it is possible to detect lactic acid of different concentrations and with different levels of pH (acidity). As a rule, the low concentration is 20-30% (pH of 1.5-3.0), the average - 30-50% (pH 2.0-3.5), high - 50-90% (pH 2.0- 3.0). Depending on the composition, the percentage of lactic acid and its exposure, the visible peeling of the skin after the procedure may be absent at all, and may be local.
Recent studies in the field of chemical peels have shown that in order to maintain the normal barrier functions of the skin, the drug should not be descended below 2.5. A successful example of such physiological peels with lactic acid is the drugs of the Salon Cosmetics under the Premium Professional brand. The concentration of the acid in them is different, but the minimum pH is 2.5. This allows you to achieve
The desired effect without disrupting the barrier functions of the skin. Here you can find both stage peelings with lactic acid in low concentration (10%) and procedural
with a concentration of 20-30%. The first are used at the stage of deep cleansing of the skin (including in the skin training programs to conduct coursework), as well as to identify the state of the vessels. The second are used in special programs for the correction of certain cosmetic problems (withering, seborrhea, acne, hyperpigmentation).
To enhance this or that action, the milk acid in preparations are combined with glycolic, peerograd, apple and amber acids, as well as with anti-inflammatory and moisturizing active ingredients.
Thus, professional procedural peeling Lactic Re-Generation 30% of Premium Professional allows you to solve a number of cosmetology problems. This is an active drug with a high content of lactic acid, which runs powerful rehabilitation processes in the skin. As a result of the course of the proceedings, wrinkles are smoothed, the manifestations of hyperpigmentation and acne decrease, the skin becomes smooth and velvety. Neutrozen peeling component prevents violation of the barrier function of the skin and destruction of ceramides.
Separate attention deserve such drugs such as anti-adaptant activators, which are an integral part of the PREMIUM GLIKO ACTIVE PRODUCTION GLIKOV PILING LINE. Their main task is to reduce adaptive skin abilities to glycolic acid and enhancing the effect of procedures. It is noteworthy that they solve this problem due to the components of the directional action (bleaching, anti-inflammatory, normalizing activities of the sebaceous glands, rejuvenating), as well as the synergies of a complex of fruit acids, where a lactic acid is also present, along with pyruograde, apple and citric acids.
Traditionally, dairy peelings are recommended to conduct courses. Depending on the age and skin condition, it is recommended to go from 5 to 10 procedures with an interval of 7-10 days.
The peeling procedure always includes pre-deplighted and postpiling care, which is 50% of the success of any chemical peeling. And here it is also appropriate to the use of drugs containing milk acid.
For the correction of fading dry skin, the serum "Watercollection" from Premium Professional is suitable. It enhances cell regeneration, increases the protective barrier of the skin. In addition to lactic acid and other alpha hydroxyclot, the tool contains hyaluronic acid, Hydroxan CH (complex humidifier), carite oil, rosehip and corn, which provide maximum moisturizing and skin nutrition.
In the bold skin correction program with signs of wilts, it is worth paying attention to the Sebum & Age Control cream from Premium Professional, which combines both ingredients to normalize the activities of the sebaceous glands and components aimed at combating age-related changes, among them dairy and glycolic acid.
The soft action of lactic acid makes it possible to include it in the composition of the age of skin care. Collagen mask against edema and bruises for PREMIUM Professional Intensive improves
Local microcirculation, elasticity and tone of vessels, contributes to the prevention of bags under the eyes.
In conclusion, we can say that lactic acid is able to help solve many cosmetic problems, if it is properly picking its concentration and a way of exposure. "