Malo okhawo: Kodi mafashoni a makumi asanu ndi amodzi amakumbukira chiyani?

Anonim

Mafashoni amatha kutchedwa molimba mtima mafoni ambiri komanso osinthika: mayendedwe ake amasintha zaka khumi zilizonse (ngati sichoncho). Koma kutembenuka kwakukulu komanso mosayembekezereka mu olemba mbiri olemba mafakitale amawona kuti ndi zaka makumi asanu ndi atatu. Dzulo mudavala zovala zoletsa za A-Silhouette, ndipo masiku ano Valani madiresi - mini mitundu "ikoke diso". Dorm dorm, zomwe zinapangitsa kuti zikhale zachikhalidwe zenizeni za mkulu ndi mibadwo yaubwana, adatipatsa mwayi wopanga za zaka zana zapitazo.

Zonse mdziko lino lapansi ndizochepa. Malingaliro awa a pilosofionjeza za momwe dziko lapansi lakonzedwa, ndizotheka kusuntha pa mafashoni. Zikuwoneka kuti Era yopanga, yadzaza zaka khumi, pomwe anthu adakumana ndi maloboti ndi danga, sadzapeza kufanana m'mbuyomu. Ndipo komabe, titha kunena molimba mtima kuti Swingle, yapadera komanso yapadera, yomwe ikulimbikitsidwa ndi zodulira za akazi, pogwiritsa ntchito zomwe zalembedwapo Mibadwo iwiri ija, idagawikana theka la zaka, likuwoneka ngati loyandikana ndi wina ndi mnzake m'mlengalenga ndi mzimu.

Malo okha!

Komabe, kufanana konse, kusiyana kwake kumawonekera kwa maliseche. Kusintha komwe anthu amakumana nako kumayambiriro kwa ma sikisite otembenuka mtima. Choyamba, kugonjetsedwa kwa malo pamitundu yonse ya ntchito yathu kunali kothandiza kwambiri ku mbali zonse za ntchito zathu. Pakaonekeratu kuti expresses osatha za chilengedwe chonsecho chitha kugonjetsedwa, malingaliro a asayansi, owongolera, ndipo mwachilengedwe, mwachilengedwe, okonza mafashoni adanenedwa ndi mphamvu yomwe sananenepo kale. Maloto a chitukuko akunja adayamba kuyenda kwamphamvu kwambiri: M'makampani am'mafilimu omwe adawoneka ngati mawonekedwe a Artehaus, ndipo podium adagwira zachilendo, nthawi zina sizikhala zofanana ndi zazikazi zazikazi. Mapewa akuluakulu, ma rackrs akuluakulu, nsapato-nsapato, zopangidwa ndi zingwe zodziwika bwino, zokongoletsera, koma zimachokera ku viccose, komanso zokokera, zimawonekeranso mawonekedwe a masitepe. Mawonekedwe atsopano adathamangitsidwa ndi Paco Slian ndi Elsa Skiaparelli, Christobal Balenciaga adagwiritsa ntchito zinthu zatsopano, ndikutchuka kwambiri pakati pa achinyamata. Pierre Cardin adawonetsa gulu la "nyengo ya Cosmos". Mwachidule, synthetic yogonjetsedwa mafashoni, omwe mu chitsimikizo chimodzi adayamba kuwonongedwa kwa anthu ndi mitundu ya ukazi wachikazi. Mukukumbukira zithunzi za amayi abwino anyumba zabwino m'madiresi ndi alery? Tsopano amayi apanyumba adakumana ndi zopweteka kwambiri (ndipo nthawi zambiri amakhala ndi zopweteka) pamtundu: m'malo mwanu bwino masiketi ndikukhala pa bulangeni loletsedwa lomwe adayesedwa kuti azikhala ovala zovala zotsekemera. Komanso, kutalika kwambiri kwa Amidiyo kunatha msanga, popereka kulimba mtima. Ndipo lero tikudziwa kuti ndi zoyenera kuthokoza chifukwa cha izi.

Wolemba siketi ya kugonana, yomwem Lojo idatsegulira mawondo ake ndi ntchafu yayikulu, inali wopanga marie, London ndi mkazi wosankha, wogawa zolimbitsa ukazi. Ndi amene anali yemwe anati: "Lakoma wabwino ndi imfa, zoyipa - moyo!" Mini, ine ndinayamba kubala ndi kufalikira ndi mafashoni opanga Andre Kurrzha, ndipo tsopano atsikana ang'onoang'ono kale adasiyidwa m'malire, ndipo amayi awo, "amayi olakalaka" adagwira ntchito.

Mwambiri, kusamvana kwapamwamba kwa abambo ndi ana, kukhala ndi malo mu m'badwo uliwonse, wapeza matanthauzidwe atsopano mu sixtieth. Makolo, ophunzira mu miyambo ya chidzitiri ndi kudziletsa, sakanakhoza kuvomereza kuti kugonana kudayamba chifukwa cha zokopa zachilengedwe, koma za kukongola kwachilengedwe, koma za njira zawo dala. Chiwonetsero chomaliza cha chikondwerero cha sample wakale chinali Jacjeel Kennedy. Anaphatikiza zovala za dukey zopereka, koma zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kale kudula kwamakono, madontho ozungulira ambiri anasintha pa "mapiritsi" ndi zowawa. Koma tsoka, Jackie adasokoneza malingaliro a mbadwo wachinyamata - ataphedwa ndi mkazi wake, Purezidenti Kennedy, adasiya kuwonekera pagulu kwa zaka khumi, ndipo machitidwe osewera a mitundu khumi a Leslie Hotbi, yemwe amadziwika kudziko lapansi ngati tmiraggy.

Wopyapyala ngati udzu, wokhala ndi zazifupi nthawi imeneyo ndi kumeta, adasintha ulaliki wa opanga zomwe mannequin angwiro ayenera kukhala. Maluwa anali ofanana ndi openga, omwe sanapange mpaka kumapeto kwa wachinyamata: ntchafu zopapatiza, mapewa owopsa, nkhope yopyapyala, adayamba kuchita bwino kwambiri, ndikuyika chiyambi cha Kufunitsitsa koyenera kwa atsikana kulimbana "kunja". Pa TViggi moyenera bwino, trapezoids, otchedwa Babidoll-babidoll-babidoll - achidule, ofanana ndi dzuwa, ndikupanga chithunzicho, ndikupanga chithunzi cha Lolita wamakono. Anapanganso chipata chotchuka chokhala ndi chipata chochuluka, madiresi a Laconric okhala ndi manja atatu okhala ndi mavalidwe.

Chizindikiro chinanso cha mawonekedwe a makumi asanu ndi atatuwo chidayamba, monga momwe anganenere lero, mkango wapadziko lonse, osungirako zakale andy Warhol, kukongola kwa Edie Sedgevik. Amawoneka ngati twiggy ngati mlongo wosabadwa, koma mmalo mwa mtundu wa ntchito adasankha phwando la phwando lotchuka. Sedgevik adapanga zotchedwa Go-Goots - nsapato zomwe zimapangidwa makamaka kuvina. Omasuka, okhazikika, amaphatikizidwa bwino kwambiri ndi minissis, mathalauza atsopano ndi ma jeans akhungu ndipo amaloledwa kukhala ndi mwayi kwa mwiniwake usiku wonse.

Koma si onse omwe adakopa chithunzi cha msungwana wa NYMite, pafupifupi mawonekedwe ofunika. Zina mwa zitsanzo, mpikisano wa Twiggy unali munthu waku Germany Vurium, yemwe samangowala yekha pa podium wachilendo, ndipo adayamba kufalikira "chithunzi chakumapeto kwa Mehelangelo Antonioni. Kenako anali ndi nkhawa kuti ntchito yake ikukula ndi Elizabeth Taylor. Kwa a Dixtieth, wochita zachinyamata wazaka makumi atatu ali nazo kale kuti Hollywood, adakwatirana ndi nthawi yachinayi ndikuwalimbikitsa omwe ali ndi zabwino, koma mawonekedwe odziwika. Anyezi onse mu nyalugwe, matalala choyera, ndipo, makamaka, zodzikongoletsera zilizonse zomwe zili pachithunzichi "Cleopatra" adapanga chithunzi choyambirira cha Taylor.

Mwachilengedwe, ndizosatheka kuyendayenda komanso kukondana ndi kugonana kwa nyenyezi ya ku France Bardo, yomwe yakhala chizindikiro chogonana cha pa makumi asanu ndi limodzi. Sanali wofanana ndi osewera a Big Ciging - ku Bardo, idaphatikizidwa kwambiri kunyezimira kwa unyamata, okhwima ndi njira zodabwitsa. Mosiyana ndi ngwazi zake, kuchuluka kwake kunali kwa manyazi, kuda nkhawa za maonekedwe ake, koma nthawi yomweyo anali ndi kutchuka kwambiri ndi anyamata kapena atsikana. Wochita seweroli adavala matonge okhala ndi ma vests, masiketi ofupikira, nsapato, mosasamala zimaphatikizira tsitsi lawo lalitali kukhala lamtengo kapena mtengo wa babet. Izi zitayamba kukhala zodziwika bwino komanso zokondana ndi azimayi ambiri. Komabe, mafakitalewo ayenera kudziwitsidwa mosiyana.

Okwera komanso apamwamba

Kuchita Kugonana, komwe tafotokoza kale, zomwe zangokhudza zomwe zapewe zolakwa zomwe zidayamba kuziyang'ana (kumbukirani ngakhale holase ya Catherine Iva Santer), komanso pa kumeta tsitsi. M'mbuyomu, kuyika kovuta kwa ma curl a curl adapita ku Curl, Hollywood tsitsi sikunangoima ndi "Avelta" kuti apangitse kukweza shopu, kuzipotoza mfundo ndi kumasula magawo angapo osewera. Koma ngakhale iye anali wotsika pa zolengedwa za stylist vidal Sassun. Ma canlicle ometa tsitsi, Mia Mpata ndi Nyenyezi zina - manja ake. Njira yake yokondera kwa akazi inali yosasunthika: palibe "zisa zakale" ndi "ming'oma ya njuchi yotchedwa nthawi imeneyo, zodula zatsopano! "Chanel mableyal" adatchedwa ma gerseles a Sassun, kwa nthawi yayitali adagwirizana ndi Marie wopanda. Kugwira ntchito ndi Mlengi wa masiketi a mini, anachenjeza kuti adzatsogozedwa ndi mfundo zake - kudula zonse zosafunikira. Chifukwa chake podium idatuluka m'mitundu yochokera ku minda yakuthwa kwa nyemba zazifupi ndi zithunzi zosewerera. Wosusuka wotchuka adapanga njira yonse yogwirira ntchito ndi tsitsi, zopangidwa ndi Slogan Kusamba-N-Go (kwenikweni "kutsukidwa ndikuyenda"). Inathandiza kwambiri azimayi omwe amasamalira pafupipafupi: Sanafunike matani a varnish, kapena thandizo la stylists, shampoo okha ndi chisa. Kudula kwa Sassin kudawoneka kosatheka.

Ndondomeko ya geometric kare, yomwe idapatsa mphamvu maestro, kuphatikizidwa mwangwiro ndi machitidwe wamba - opanga ziwonetserozo adayamba kupenga m'mabwalo, makona atatu, mabwalo ndi mabwalo. Kutulutsidwa mujambula zojambulajambula, zochititsa chidwi zopangidwa ndi geometry zidapangidwa kuti zovala zonse zikhale, akazi ndi amuna. Emilio Puchchi adachita bwino kwambiri pokonzanso zovuta.

Wodziwika bwino unkawoneka kuti wavala lalikulu kuchokera ku Sassun, nsapato zazitali komanso kavalidwe kopsinjika, timizidwa, mwachitsanzo, kuchokera ku vinyl. Kuchokera pamakolaketi anzeru, mathalauza anali atavala mwangwiro (pafupi kwambiri kumapeto kwa makumi asanu ndi atatu adayamba kulowa magakimu), ndikuyamwa. Chithunzicho chinamalizidwa ndi mivi yonyansa yomveka bwino komanso ma eyelashes akuda. Panthawiyo, "masitepe ochepa" adayamba popita, pomwe ojambula amapanga mowolowa manja, wosanjikiza pamtunda wosanjikiza adayika mascara. Ndipo palibe milomo! Monga malo omaliza, idaloledwa kuloza milomo yokhala ndi mawu owunikira kuti asasokoneze chidwi ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino.

Phokoso la nyimbo

Kanemayo, luso ndi makampani a nyimbo zimawonetsanso momwe m'badwo uwonera. Atsogoleri adachita chidwi ndi Arthaus, France adapereka dziko lapansi "funde" yatsopano, ndipo andy Warhol ndi Roy Mehchtenstein adapanga zaluso zojambulajambula ndi zaluso zatsopano. Mwambiri, owala, kusiyanitsa, zithunzi zojambulidwa zotengedwa m'mabuku azokoma ndikusintha moyo weniweni, - ndiye fanizo lolondola la nthawi. Mauta okuda akhala chowonjezera chachikulu pa chilichonse, ngakhale chithunzi chokhwima kwambiri, ndipo azimayi ndi akazi amawoneka ngati ngwazi za achinyamata omwe amakonda.

Mu nyimbo mdziko lapansi, pakadali pano, kayendedwe ka thanthwe kumakulitsa ndikupeza. Oyimba akuluakulu a nthawi ya nthawiyo akugudubuza miyala yomwe ali ndi Mtsogoleri wawo Mick Jagger. Chifukwa chake aliyense amene sanazengereze kupita kukaonekera m'mashala mu nandolo m'manda akuluakulu ndi nsapato zazikulu za vinyl! Gwirani maudindo awo ndi mabisi, iwo amayamba kupita ku nsonga za Ulemelero Jimmy Hendrix ndi Jim Jim Morrison ndi gulu la Bob Dylan. Khama la Nancy Sinattra limakhala losasinthika Jazi. Thanthwe limalowa mu gulu lakale, kenako pang'onopang'ono limapereka kanjedza kampikisano ku magulu a psyfetelic. Pink Floyd akuyamba ntchito yawo pakati pa utoto wakuya, wotsogolera Zeppelin ndi wofiirira pafupi kumapeto kwake, koma adzagonjetsa mbiri yawo yotchuka komanso gulu lankhondo pambuyo pake. Makumi asanu ndi awiri.

Nthawi za kukula kwa malo, kukana kuchokera kwa okalamba, kusintha kwa mabotolo kukongola kwa akazi - m'badwo wa iwo omwe akula ndi chikondwerero cha opanga mafashoni ndikuwalimbikitsabe pa zoseweretsa. A Marti Jacob pafupifupi chaka chilichonse amaulula kukondana ndi "aphunzitsi" ake a Pierrera ndi Iva Saint-Laurean, Pradan ndi FEDI ndi kulimbikira komwe timanyamula pazaka za zana zapitazo. Louis Vuitton yomwe nthawi yolumikizira silhouettes, ndipo "zosindikizira zotsogola zotsogola, komanso banciaga ndi Moschino.

Mizere yomveka bwino, yowonjezera ya geometry, zinthu zosadziwika bwino zidalowa m'malo mwa zokambirana za couture ndipo sizikuwasiya. Zoyenera kunena za mini ndi nsapato, popanda zomwe palibe mtsikana wamakono saimira zovala zanu! Chifukwa cha kutchuka kwa makumi asanu ndi atatu, titha kubwereranso ku nthawi yaulemelero, munthu akatsimikiziranso kuti ukutha kugonjetsa dziko lapansi lokha, komanso malo osokoneza bongo. Nazi?

Werengani zambiri