Ingoganizirani kuti mothandizidwa ndi galimoto yosangalatsa ya nthawi yomwe tinasamukira ku Night zaka makumi asanu ndi anayi zapitazo - kumayambiriro kwa makumi atatu a makumi awiri azaka makumi awiri. Nkhawa, nthawi yovuta, yotsutsa. Kukhumudwa kwakukulu kumayamba, zomwe zidayamba mu 1929. Adzakhala wodabwitsa zaka khumi, zotsatilapo zake zidzakhudza chuma cha dziko, ndale ndi gulu pafupifupi makumi asanu ndi limodzi. Gulu lapakati lawuka kwambiri, anthu mamiliyoni ambiri amataya ntchito, kusamuka kwakukulu kumayamba. Ndipo pakati pa izi zonse kuchepa, njira yatsopano yopangira mafayilo ndi mafilimu imayamba kutulutsa - kukongola kwa mawu (kuchokera ku mawu a liwu la Chingerezi, ndiye kuti, "kukongola"). Momwe Zinachitikira Kuti Kusinja Kuchokera Kumanja Kwa Nkhondo Yachiwiri Yapadziko Lonse, Zinkawoneka kuti zili nthawi zonse zaka zapamwamba, zinali zobadwa, kuthamangitsa zapamwamba, chic, chuma?
Nyenyezi zakuwala
Koma kukongola, mtima wa nthawi yamphamvu, komwe kumatchedwa Goldel Age of Hollywood, kunachitika chifukwa cha mtundu wokhala ndi zochitika zotsutsa zenizeni. Makampani opanga mafilimu nthawi zonse amakhala ogwiritsa ntchito ena, ndipo mkati mwa makumi atatu, omwe akupanga dzina la America lidalandira "dzina" lodziwika bwino ndipo limadziwika kuti ndi fakitale yamaloto. Zimakhala zoona bwanji! Mavuto akakhala kunja kwa zenera, moyo sunali wokondwa, anthu onse anali ndi mantha (osati pachabe, monga tikudziwira zokumana nazo za Nkhondo Yoyamba Yapadziko Lonse, Anthu Amangofuna Mtundu Wachiwiri Chilumba cha Kukhala Okhazikika ndi Chiyembekezo.
Anakhala ma sinema omwe anali mafilimu osangalatsa. Ngakhale anali ndi mpweya wopondereza komanso dontho la malipiro, matikiti amagulitsidwa ngati makeke otentha. Zikadakhala kuti: Kutali, mu holo yamdima, kunali kotheka kwakanthawi kochepa kuti muchepetse zomwe zidakuchitikirani. Kumveka kwa mawu kokha kudakhala kusintha kwenikweni ndipo kunapereka utoto wokulirakulira. Pa zowonetsera ayerera diva, umene kukumana mu queues pa kuwombola ntchito, ndi boma, zoonda, ndi zozipakapaka wangwiro ndi zikopa zadothi, ndi nsidze woonda, mu kaso, ndi singano. Momwe sanaliri ngati akazi enieni a makumi atatu, motero anali ofunikira!
Koma palibe lingaliro lopita ku Zakumapeto kwa zojambulajambula za makumi atatu zinalibe. Zikomo zonse kwa, momveka bwino, chifukwa chotchedwa Heis Code code, chomwe chimakhazikitsidwa pa kupsinjika kwakukulu, kukopa kukongola. Kodi zinali bwanji? Association of Fairman offilimu ya filimu yaletsa makanema opanga kuti "kuchepetsa miyezo ya anthu amene amawaona." Mndandanda wamakhalidwe oletsa, makamaka Ponena za zithunzi zilizonse, ngakhale zitakhala silhouettes kapena mithunzi ya ochita zamaliseche. Kugonana sikunachite chibwibwi konse - ngati mkuluyo sanafune kuphatikiza monololoue ndi mlanduwu. Ukwati woyamba usiku, bambo ndi mkazi, atagona pabedi limodzi, anali osayenera pa zowonetsera. Pankhaniyi, opanga a fakitalelo sanathe kukakamizidwa kukhala ndi wowonera, kupatula "mafano 'kudzera pazovala. Ndipo adayamba!
Mafashoni a masewera, ma kilogalamu a Langoc adasowa mwachangu - achikazi komanso kukongola kosangalatsa kunabwera kudzawalowetsa. Kusefukira ku ATLAS, Velvet, silika wambiri ndi mitate mita, ubweya (kuti) mafashoni a Croin, monganso organilille rocha, nakonzanso njira zazikuluzikulu, zopanduka ndi zinthu zovuta..
Mfumu ya mawonekedwe inali Vmon m'mawonetseredwe ake onse. Azillayer, wotupa, wopangidwa ndi mazana a Frill, ozunza malingaliro a opanga nyumba mtsogolo. Katundu watsopano adawatsutsa: azimayi adasandulika pawiri ndi zipewa zolimba, minyewa yolemera ndikutseka mapewa ndi ubweya wa khosi. Mwambiri, gulu lagolide lagolide limafanana ndi dzina: zikopa zazitali, nsapato zopitilira muyeso, zipewa zam'maso, zomwe zimatsindika ukazi ndi zamunthu nthawi imeneyo.
Cholepheretsa kwambiri ku Hollywood Olympus anali Clark Garl Lombard lombard, nyenyezi ya nthabwala yapamwamba "Mr. ndi Akazi a Smith". Anali zitsanzo zabwino, woyamba pakati pa omwe adakhala fanizo labwino. Ndi iye, wolimba mtima ndi lakuthwa lilime la Hedi lamamafi, lomwe limatchedwa vivien wachiwiri Lee. Mankhwala olondola, chikopa cha porther, chilakolako chotsindika zolimba za fanizo lake, koma m'mbiri ya Hedi adalowa monga momwe mawu achipembedzo amakhalira: "Mtsikana aliyense angathe khalani okongola. Zomwe muyenera kuchita ndikuyimilira ndikuwoneka mopusa. " Chifukwa chake, chitsanzo cha mtunduwu kunyozeke zofooka zake.
Mwa zina zonse chikondwererochi, omwe anali okhulupilika pazikhalidwe zawo adatsala - mwachitsanzo, zogonana ndi zigawenga, zomwe zinali zowoneka bwino komanso chovala choyenera, komanso ku chic Tuxedo. Zowona, mu chimango chomwe chidawoneka kawirikawiri. Kupanduka kwina ndi osasanjidwa ndi Hollywood, Greta Garbo, adalimbikitsa kufanana m'mafashoni, kukhala amodzi mwa mafani otchuka kwambiri a zovala zamphongo.
Ungwiro
Wobadwira ku Trirtieth, mawonekedwe okongola anali kupeza ndalama mpaka ma miliyoni. Panthawi yomwe anthu omwe anthu amakumana ndi zowopsa za dziko lachiwiri, ochita zinthu ngati Mulungu, ndipo amachita zojambulazo zazitali pamavalidwe ovala zazitali komanso zovala zitatu zabwino, masisiketi awo " Kufalikira), milomo yofiira ndi matalala oyera oyera amakumbutsidwa ndi wachivundi mosavuta: Dolama Vita ipitilirabe ngakhale kuphulikayo idzapereka. Malingaliro a malotowo adawoneka kuti ndiwokulira komanso mochulukira kuti akhale kherogo, kudzoza kwakukulu komwe iwo amakhala kwa anthu osavuta. Chifukwa chake zidachitika: Zithunzi za kukongola kwa zaka za zana la agolide kuwonekera pamwamba pa mabedi m'bwalo lankhondo lankhondo la Asitikali ku Europe ndi USA.
Zizindikiro zakugonana ndi zithunzi zamafashoni za nyenyezi zingapo, zomwe zimathandizabe nthawi ya Hollywood wakale. Choyamba, tikulankhula za Sultry Brunetta Ava Divaner. Ma curls ake angwiro, nsidze zokongola kwambiri komanso defolfute, zomwe adawonetsa zochitika zadziko lapansi (mu chimango, zomwe tafotokoza kale) zilema ndi mapewa , adachepetsa malingaliro si mafani ake okha. Mmodzi mwa osilira a talente ndi kukongola adawonekeranso ku Erich Maria mawu, ndipo wopanga nyumbayo agwedezeka, ndi a Frank Sinotra. Ali ndi Gardiner nkhani ya chikondi imalowa thumba la zonyamula zida zankhondo, zokonda ndi zazing'ono za dziko lapansi. Ava avale mkazi wokhala ndi nkhope ya mngelo ndi thupi la mulungu wamkazi - ndipo panali ochita zonse za "nyengo yayikulu" yopanda ziswe ndi zolakwika. Pakati pawo ndi njira yobwerera ku Rita Heivort, ndi biscon wofatsa, ndi ofiira kwambiri a nthawi zonse ndi anthu omwe ali ndi Vibien Lee.
Pakati pa kuwombera, komwe mu chimango cha nyenyezi chinawala kwambiri chifukwa cha zovala zodziwika bwino, atsikana otchuka adayamba kuvala "mapasa" okhala ndi ma jekeni pamitu, kumalumphira pang'ono. Zovala zoyera za chipale chofewa, magolovesi a microscopic ndi mapiritsi - popanda zigawo izi, chithunzicho chimawerengedwa. Tsitsi lambiri lodabwitsa lidadulidwa ku masamba ndikugona ndi mafunde opepuka kapena mphete zolimba munyumba yapamwamba.
Dzuwa litalowa
Payokha, nkoyenera kunena kuti zopangidwa mkalasi nditagona. Mwachilengedwe, ojambula ojambula sanasiye mwayi umodzi chabe ku zolakwa za pakhungu, komanso mawonekedwe ake achilengedwe, monga lump kapena, Mulungu aletse, ma freckles. Matani a mafuta ndi ufa, ndipo tili ndi malo okongola a pormain ndi chomata. Panalibe mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya akazi omwe ali ndi nthawi imeneyo, timawona diva yokhala ndi milomo yofiyira ndi eyelisi yakuda, yokhala ndi nsidze zazikulu komanso nsidze zazikulu komanso zopondera za roat. Nyenyezi zina zimatsika ndi ngwazi zawo zowonetsera zomwe adapitilirabe kuvala zofiirira pamilomo yake komanso tsiku ndi tsiku.
Zomwe zimapangika ndikuyamba, kutchuka kwa ma curllwood kwambiri anali otchuka, monga a Afferess Lake. Wokonzedwa bwino, wonyezimira, wandiweyani, wophatikizidwa pampando wozungulira ndikuphatikizira kuchokera mkati mwa kutalika kwa miyendo yofewa, yophimba, Kuluma tsitsi lalitali kwambiri sikungakwanitse chilichonse: pakati pa omwe adatsimikiza ulendowu, zonse zomwezo Martar Marlene Dietrich.
Mwa makumi asanu, kutsika kokongola kumayamba: Mphamvu zake zikadali zamphamvu, koma zowopsa za nkhondoyi iyamba kuiwala, ndipo mkazi wolotayo asiya. Moyo wanthawi zonse umatengera zake, lingaliro lokongola limadzipanga yekha, ndipo iwo amene akudziwa kugwirira ntchito limodzi kuti athe kuphatikiza zapamwamba komanso wamba. Anafika - ndipo chifukwa chake zinthu zofunika. Mlandu wachipembedzo womwe Era Marilyn Monroe wopanda ntchito amasintha kavalidwe kakang'ono ka Hignar Wosautsa Heprey Heprecquelly Yemwe amayang'ana pazithunzi zodziwika bwino, komanso ma shaans ndi malaya.
Masiku ano, timakumana ndi nthawi yokongola, timakumana kwathunthu komanso pafupi - sikuti, palibe wina amene watuluka m'malo mwa mavalidwe okongola kwambiri pansi. Koma chaka chilichonse tikuwonera parade yokongola: Njira zofiira za zikondwerero za filimuyo zimatisangalatsa ndi zolengedwa za coutore wa Armani ndi Dire, Vesino ndi Valentino. Zovala ziwiri ndizosangalatsa kuvala Rihanna ndi Arlen Portman ndi Keira Kzunguli.
Maloto a mzimayi, ikani pansi - lero chithunzichi ndichachikale, ndipo zitsanzo zina zimapita kwa iye. Koma akupitilizabe kulimbikitsa opanga amakono kuti apange ... ndi chilichonse, kuchokera ku ntchito za mabuku pazopangidwa. Nanga bwanji sititenga kuchokera kwa azimayi a nthawi yomweyo - kuthekera kosungiramo zinthu zakale komanso mphamvu ya ukazity.