Few of the buyers of cosmetics can clearly answer what is behind the terms "Natural Cosmetics" and "Organic Cosmetics". It is usually the first thing that comes to the head is the presence of herbs extracts in the funds. But how many of them can be in the percentage? What should be in such cosmetics?
"To begin with, it is worth holding a" demarcation "line between the names of" natural cosmetics "and" organic cosmetics, "- explains Elena Koval, an independent expert consultant, a specialist in environmentally friendly cosmetic brand. - Unfortunately, a clear definition that such natural cosmetics, there are no natural cosmetics. Theoretically, the manufacturer can add a chamomile extract to the cream and boldly write on the "natural" packaging. In fact, it is nothing more than a marketing stroke, because the main percentage of such a means may be the ingredients obtained by a chemical pathway, including oil and poisonous gases. We do not think that we use similar synthetic means every day, although doctors and scientists have long suspected them in carcinogenicity, mutaging and negative impact on the fruit (especially future boys). It is not surprising that in the world now there is a real boom on natural products (not only cosmetics), as well as clean water and air.
Unfortunately, a resident of the metropolis is unlikely to do something to do something with the environment, but it can choose products that will fall into the body.
In Europe, natural cosmetics have long ceased to be exclusive or niche, for us it is still in a novelty. To take the first step towards healthy skin and clean nature, it is necessary to understand what kind of natural cosmetics. In different countries, this concept is interpreted slightly differently, but there are general universal provisions:
- before 90-95% of cosmetic ingredients must be natural . Here it is necessary to explain that in addition to vegetable ingredients, water, minerals, animal products, not related to animal harm (for example, honey, milk, lanolin, propolis);
- synthetic substances are prohibited obtained by petrochemical synthesis;
It is allowed 5-10% of synthetic components obtained by soft chemical reactions (as a rule, these are preservatives that are used in the production of food).
All listed provisions are certainly good, but the format of natural cosmetics does not provide for special control over where those or other ingredients come from. For example, a lavender can grow on an environmentally friendly field, and maybe at the carriageway or in a contaminated area. Plants grown on pesticides and herbicides are then in the face cream, which we apply to the skin every day. You can only guess the consequences of such cosmetic care. Therefore, Europeans have developed an organic cosmetics standard with more tough and specific requirements:
- Natural ingredients should be 95%;
- at least 10% of raw materials for plant components should be collected from environmentally friendly plantations or grown in wildlife;
- synthesized substances must be "soft", their number should not exceed 5%;
- It is forbidden to use genetically modified components, synthetic flavors and dyes;
- all raw materials, every product and production itself must pass certification;
- On the tool label, a complete list of components must be shown (environmentally friendly) is highlighted and the certification authority is specified.
In addition, the Europeans decided that they did not want to be beautiful at the expense of animal suffering, so the ban on the components of animal origin, obtained by killing animals or damage to them (cosmetics should not be tested at our smaller brothers).
When choosing organic cosmetics, it is necessary to remember that not all substances of natural origin are useful or harmless to our body. For example, oil and products of its processing that the cosmetic industry often uses
(Including for the production of lipstick), are products of rotting, decomposition. It is not by chance that oil deposits are deep underground, it is not available to an ordinary person. Now all over the world around the products of oil refining are subject to discussions about their carcinogenicity and toxicity. That is why the ingredients obtained by petrochemical synthesis are prohibited by organic standards. "
The criterion of the naturalness and usefulness of cosmetics are modern ecostandarts, and compliance with them is necessary at all stages of production - ranging from growing raw materials and ending with production
Packaging. In different countries, these standards differ somewhat, but there are several of the most famous.
Bdih.
The "pioneer" in the development of the criteria of the naturalness of cosmetics was Germany. In 2001, BDIH is an association of companies operating in the production of pharmaceutical and cosmetic drugs - presented its standard of natural cosmetics in the world. His conditions:
Cosmetics should not be tested on animals. It is forbidden to use raw materials obtained
from dead vertebrates;
It is allowed to use inorganic salts, natural fats, oils, waxes, lanolin and lecithin, mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, proteins and lipoproteins;
Artificial substances are allowed as preservatives, identical to natural;
It is forbidden to use synthetic dyes and flavors, silicones, paraffin and other oil products.
Despite the fact that the BDIH standard admits some compromises, allowing the use of alternative components, he first gave the legal status of natural cosmetics
And he became the first step in the development of rules for European manufacturers. Its conditions are a recommendatory nature, so today it is a little outdated and does not comply with the requirements of environmentally friendly cosmetics.
Natrue.
Since November 2007, Natrue Non-European Non-Profit Organization, Natrue, the initiators of the creation of which were German manufacturers of natural cosmetics were started to work. The purpose of her work is to clarify consumers what kind of cosmetics they buy.
When assessing the naturalness of cosmetics, they are assigned from one to three stars. One star corresponds to the standards of natural cosmetics (they are presented at the beginning of the article), two stars imply the share of organic components at least 70%, three stars (cosmetics with a share of organic components at least 95%) meet the most stringent European requirements, namely BIO standard.
By the way, the Natrue sign, which serves as the guarantor of the highest level of biocosterals, is a new deep action line of Janssen Organics from JanSsen Cosmetics (Germany). The result of more than two-year scientific research was a series based on highly efficient plant extracts grown on environmentally friendly plantations around the globe. Funds are completely excluded parabens, paraffin, silicone and mineral oils, dyes, synthetic components and ingredients of oil origin.
Bio.
In 2002, a group of French producers of raw materials and cosmetics developed a new Bio standard. "To date, this is the highest quality standard for cosmetic products and funds.
Hygiene, "Elena Koval's story continues. - Bio certification is carried out by world-famous independent organizations Ecocert and Qualite France.
Hard control of products begins at the stage of seed selection for future plants, which will be part of a particular cosmetics. Only healthy seeds of genetically unchanged plants grown on environmentally friendly plantations can be used, while the soil can be processed only by organic fertilizers, and the fight against weeds to carry out only mechanical methods. Thus, environmental purity and complete absence of harmful and toxic components are guaranteed as part of cosmetics.
The composition of organic cosmetics:
- at least 95% of all ingredients of natural origin;
- at least 10% of all ingredients - plants with environmentally friendly plantations;
- at least 95% of all plants - with environmentally friendly plantations;
- Ingredients of animal origin are prohibited.
Control over compliance with all requirements is carried out several times a year ECOCERT, and the auditors can visit without preventing both plant plants and in the production of cosmetics.
There are manufacturers who completely abandoned the Bio allowed by 5% of the chemical components in the product recipe. These include Gamarde, dermatocamesis of which is natural for all 100%.
In the dermatological laboratories, Hamard has been proven in practice that it is possible to obtain and preserve complex cosmetic compositions without resorting to harmful preservatives, emulsifiers, petrochemical synthesis products. Thus, French natural cosmetics Gamarde is even higher than the Bio standard, the most tight of the existing today.
As the basis, thermal water, natural oils and polysaccharides of plant origin are used here. Up to 57% of all vegetable ingredients comes with environmentally friendly plantations.
To experience the miraculous properties of fully natural cosmetics, it is enough to apply extra-flagery and food on the skin (CREME HYDRATANTE RICHE). The thermal water of Gamarde, sesame oil and argan water, the essential oils of palmaroza, rosewood and lavender are saturated with moisture skin, soothe it, regenerating the regenerating effect.
On the eve of the active Sun period, special attention should be paid to the Gamarde Sunscreen. As we know, chemical filters are used in conventional tan creams, some of them transform solar energy into superactive free radicals that can cause gene mutations at the DNA level. Others possess estrogen and carcinogenic properties, the third cause allergies.
The Hamard laboratories have developed a new safe formula based on only physical filters operating on the principle of reflection. For this, a special kind of zinc oxide, brought from Australia, "envelop" with oils (carite, sesame), which themselves are already natural solar filters.
As a result, a transparent screen is obtained, reflecting the entire spectrum of sunlight and not leaving on the skin of blessed divorces. Gentle emulsion creams are easily applied and distributed on the skin, such as the SPF 30 SPF 30 cream (CREME SOLAIRE). Its average degree of protection is suitable for both the city and for the nature of nature. In addition to protecting against the entire ultraviolet spectrum and infrared rays, it perfectly moisturizes and soothes the skin through the presence of Ilang-Ilanga and Lavender essential oils in it, carite and sunflower oils, and vegetable vitamin E.
For organic cosmetics - health and future not only people, but all our planet, it is possible to use it from any means - toothpaste, shampoo, shower gel, deodorant, cream or thermal water. "
Russian standards
"Today, in Russia there is no system of certification of natural cosmetics," says Ekaterina Vrubel, General Director of Biobuti. - Although there are cosmetic stamps worthy of this certificate.
In Moscow, Novosibirsk, St. Petersburg there are serious scientific laboratories, where truly natural and safe cosmetic products are being developed, capable of competing with European brands. As a rule, these manufactures are certified according to the international standard of ISO 9001 management, which guarantees the environmental purity of raw materials and strict control over the implementation of all technological processes. Unfortunately, there are some difficulties in obtaining Russian manufacturers of European ecamertitis, such as BDIH or ECOCERT. For example, animal fats are traditionally used in Russian cosmetics (such as mink oil and lanolin, protecting the skin in frosts), which are prohibited in Europe. In addition, the general requirement for ecoserity is the use of biodegradable packaging, which is still difficult to achieve for Russian companies.
The certification procedure itself requires significant financial investments, because it is necessary to provide representatives of the relevant authorities the ability to control twice a year the purity of plantations where plant fees occur. For example: in the composition of one biomaist "vitamin" from "Biobuta" 18 types of herbs and plants!
Nevertheless, in December 2011, a document was published describing the requirements for the composition of cosmetic products applying to the Russian certificate of ecocosmetics. True, rejoice in our buyers is too early. The listed permitted components include alumboy alums (knitting components of deodorants), benzoic acid (chemical preservative) and some types of surfactants. There is hope that work on the creation of this document will continue and in the end we will receive the Russian ecoser. Many
Russian companies, including "bobbies", will proudly stap it on their products. "